80LS1T

What is this car going to be used for? I thought your SRT was your new toy? You should buy the "AGP Stage 4" kit for your SRT and then you can really show your neighbor who's the boss! Guy

Yeah good luck with that one. I have searched in the past and have not found anything but a stock file for a 1994 with a 6 speed. If you do find one be sure to post it. Oh and I am really interested in the numbers your going to be putting down. Have you got the tuning part pretty figured out? I haven't got a chance to mess with Tuner Cat from a tuning stand point yet, just deleting stuff that I dont want/need. If you have it figured out please post up some info on how you did the tuning. Guy

You need three wires to the DLC: 1: D30 (serial data) goes to "M" on the DLC 2: D20 goes to "B" on the DLC 3: "A" on the DLC goes to chassis ground First thing I would do is check your ground wire on your DLC, the "A pin". I wouldnt worry about your PCM being dead since the car runs. Your using the 12 pin OBDI connector correct? Guy

Now you guys got me thinking, I nevery really took a close look from the back side of the bucket/fender. I could have sworn that it was one piece. Since I do have the fenders off I will have to take a closer look next time I'm working on my car! I will have to update my post if I'm mistaken! Guy (I took a look at my headlight buckets this week and they do come off! I have already edited my previous post!)

I had that problem too, it ended up being a problem with the port setings on my computer vs. the port settings in Tuner Cat. What kind of wire are you using to edit? I have a USB to serial port adapter. I had to install extra software for the cable to work correctly(it was supplied by the maker of the cable set up). Guy

Nice write up! (edited, my headlight buckets do come off the fenders!)

I am in the process of primering my 280ZX right now. I have all the moldings, trim, lights, latches, rubber seals, and emblems off. I have the hood, the doors, bumpers, and hatch off also. I would recommend the same if you want a good paint job. With all that stuff off its much easier to get in all the areas that were tight with those panels on. The only really hard part to get coverage on is the bottom of the hood in all those holes/creveses. I have my hatch, both doors, and the hood in primer. I also have the area under the right fender in primer. I am going to put the fender back on and then do the body work on that fender with it on the car because it will be easier to do because the fender is so "floppy" off the car. If you want a quick paint job just take off the lights, emblems, and bumpers. If you want a quality paint job do like I did and remove everything. Guy

I work about 42 hours a week at the dealership but I usually "book" 50-60 hours per week so I get paid for those 50-60 hours but only work the 42! Then after work I go work on the side for cash at a small shop for usually 15-20 hours a week and again I will usually "book" 20-25 hours. So I work about 57-62 hours but get paid for 70-85 hours because I'm a flat rate technican! Works out pretty good! Guy

A guy I work with just picked up his 06' SI yesterday. He had it at work today but I didint go look at it because I absolutly HATE hondas. I just dont give them any respect as far as a "sports car" / "fast car". I think they make good grocery getters. However.....He was telling me that the power is much smoother than the older VTEC's and the the power assisted steering seems to stiffen up as the speed gets higher. I just said "oh" and didnt ask anything else. I just wanted to say "yeah I'll take TQ from 1000RPM's to 6000RPM's, I dont need VTEC" but I just left that one alone. Guy

The 2 big downfalls of the T56 are weight and price. Thats why people want to go with other trannys. What does the TKO cost and weight? Guy

I just started the body work on my car recently also. I have a buddy who is a auto body guy. Hes been doing it for 20+ years and he told me to use "Specialty Performance Products" SXA1031 self etching primer for the spots where I sand through the original primer and hit bare metal. Basically I am just using it to put a light coat on the bare metal and then spraying regular primer over the whole panel. The regular primer is not ment for direct metal contact like the etching primer is. He's been using the primer with very good results. So I wasnt affraid to use it. Its like $17 a can though. Definetly not your $3 can from Autozone! Guy

No its a regular bolt. It should come right out with an impact gun? What are you using to try to take it out?(by the way Im a Nissan Tech, so if you have some more questions just shoot...) Guy

Its usually on the very back outside(towards the fender) of the head. Its an external leak. I would say 30% of all the 3.3L that I've seen have some leakage around this area on one or both heads. The worst part is the new gasket isnt an updated one so their not really fixing the problem!

What engine is in it? If its the 3.3L then they are prone to headgaskets leaking on the back outside corners(mostly on the passenger side head). The exhaust manifolds also like to crack. Other than that they seem to be pretty good vehicles(having only been working on them for about a month and a half). Guy

Here's my custom header. Its not an even flow design but its better than a manifold. Its jet hot coated now so it looks nice now. The only header that will fit on the drivers side withe the recipricatiing ball type gear box is one that you make. No one that I know of has found a header that will fit it its "stock" form(or even lightly modified). How about some pics! T

Some day, when I grow up, I want to get turned away from a track because Im "too fast"! LOL Guy

I built a header for that side. You can use the LT1(92-97') manifold on that side with the MSA motor mounts. You can also use the old "ram horn" style manifolds. They arent headers but they work. Guy

what kind of engine is this?

Leave the horrible spelling at the door and start your own thread. This has nothing to do with the LT1's EGR system. As for the question asked, I have mine blocked off too and edited out of the PCM. I haven't had any issues either. The guys who are running and EGR are pretty much only running it because they have to because they are in a SMOG state/area. Most guys dont run it because it clutters up the engine bay and isnt need to have the engine run right or better, just cleaner. Guy

When I think of a return line system I think of the regulator being after the fuel rail and then dumping the "extra" fuel back into the tank. The kit that is offered for the SRT-4's doesn't seem to fall into this category. It seems to be just moving the regulator closer to the fuel rail. Maybe the stock regulator is just crap and the new regulator is just that much better at controlling the fuel supply? I think were going to look into a true return line system by either modifying the stock fuel rail by putting a fitting on the other side and then running a new regulator....or, hes going to get and after market fuel rail and run the regulator after the rail. Guy

Well this is not Z related but I would rather ask you guys than the morons over on SRTFORUMS.COM. My buddy has a 05' SRT-4 with a big turbo kit on it. We just dyno'd in last Saturday and after seeing the air/fuel ratios we now know that he need a fuel return line. Right when he comes on to boost from about 2500-3200 RPMS it goes nasty lean to about 16:1 but quickly there after drops to 11.7:1 all the way to redline. We tried to richen it up but it wont adjust enough to compensate for that sudden demand of fuel. Apperently the return line and adjustable fuel pressure regulator will solve this problem. The way that these return lines are set up is, the stock regulator on the tank is blocked off, then you T into the supply line and run your regulator to that, then run your return line from the regulator back into your fuel filler neck. My question is how is that different from the stock set up? Basically all you seem to be doing is moving the regulator up inside the engine compartment, right? Can someone explain to me how this set up is different from the stock set up? Guy PS.... the SRT is putting down 374HP/370TQ @ 20psi and 340/336 @17 psi! Yeah his car is fun thats for sure!

Some might even call it a supercharger.... Guy