80LS1T

I have a 280ZX with an LT1/T56 combo. If I had all the tools that I have now back when I swapped in the motor/tranny I would not have bought the over priced motor mounts. All they do is adapt the chevy 3 bolt pattern on the block to the Datsun 2 bolt pattern on the cross member. Have a look at my web page and you will see what I mean. I even gave the approximate measurements for the amount of space that they are! Guy

Ditto what MrFurious said, dont bother with a single stage unless you like your compressor running all the time. I bought a compressor a few months ago and I didn't skimp on it. It is just one of those tools that I feel I only want to buy once. With how often I use my compressor it will probably last me 20+ years! Here's what I bought... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=104208 Here's a post about when I was looking for mine... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103362 Hope that helps! Guy

My stock 93' heads before porting... INTAKE 100 200 300 400 500 600 700 ------------------------------------- 73 137 184 213 210 210 210 EXHAUST 50 93 128 162 171 174 178 My heads after porting... INTAKE 100 200 300 400 500 600 700 --------------------------------- 81 148 195 234 255 252 252 EXHAUST 58 108 149 181 197 208 212 What are you running for springs? My intake has been cleaned up and port matched too so I would guess that with a good tune I should be putting down close to the same numbers. I am going to get my car back on the road and then get it dyno'd with the LT$ HC and see what it does but I dont think it will get me into the 11's like I want to be. 11's for a street car is fast enough for me and that's where I plan to keep it for this car! Guy

Do you have any flow numbers from your heads? I am looking to get about 400RWHP with my LT1 and Im running stock heads that have been ported. I am wondering if my heads will support that cam. Guy

Yeah stock the power just doesnt throw you back in the seat. Its a fun car to drive though. I think they weigh in right around 3500lbs. Guy

jbc3, what heads are you running with that cam? 400+RWHP sounds pretty good for N/A! Guy

You'll want 11, 12, 2(if your going to keep the stock coolant overflow bottle), 3 is the headlamp relay I beleive, you will need some of the stuff in 4 and 10. Thats what mine looks like(also an 80'). I moved all my body electronics to the inside of the passenger wheelwell and routed everything through the frame rails. I wish I had a pic from above the engine bay to show how clean it looks without all the wiring harnesses and relay boxes.... Guy

Sorry to hear about your bad luck! I guess you should have got an auto roadster! Guy

The G35 is basically a 350Z with a backseat, so the performance numbers are the same. If you ask me the 350Z/G35 is slow in stock form but extremley fun to drive. Both hold the road like you wouldnt believe! The interior on the G35 is very nice, all sorts of gadges and gauges to monitor everything. If you go with a sedan you can get it in AWD though! They really need to offer a turbo option for the 350Z/G35 though! We just turbo charged my service writers 350Z, man his car is a blast to drive now! Should have came this way from the factory. His motor is built up now though, hes running 8.8:1 forged pistons and forged H-beam rods. He actually just got it dyno'd tonight and its putting 383HP/380TQ @ 8psi. Now he just needs to get an EMS and get rid of the MAF sensor so that he can turn up the boost! Guy

I just finished up installing a new short block in my service writers 350Z after it "blew up" after installing the turbo kit. The new short block has a stock crank, forged H-beam rods and forged pistons. The stock compression was 10.3:1 but we lowered it to 8.8:1 for the turbo. My question is how does lowering the compression affect AFR's if the PCM's programming is not changed? He had the computer flashed but that was for a stock motor with 8psi boost, now he's running the same programming but 8.8:1. The closed loop is AFR's are right around 14.7 and open loop is at about 11.3:1. The computer was flashed for 8psi to run at 11:1. Now the owner of the dyno that he is going to get it dyno'd at said that dropping the compression should have richened the mixture up. I am just wondering about the theory behind that info? Thanks, Guy

I dont have to do any emissions testing where I live. No visual, no tailpipe, no OBDII.....nothin! Emissions are not a factory around here so have no worries about that!(Milwaukee does have some emissions areas though from what I remember) Guy

Well I live in Appleton(about 30 mintues south of Green Bay). I like the area. The winters are actually pretty mild. We usually only get heavy snow a hand full of times per winter, atleast thats how its been for the last 6-7 years. Emissions are not a factor around here! So that's a plus! Be sure to let us know what happens! Guy

I tried to see if the LT1 has a power steering pressure sensor but the diagrams I'm looking at from "Alldata online" aren't showing one. The PCM will also bump up the idle when it sees more pressure on from that sensor. If the LT1 has one (and your not using it) you could wire it in so that when you turn the A/C on it sends power or ground(which ever the PCM wants to see) to the PCM to trick it into thinking the wheel is cranked. You wouldn't have to trick any of the A/C signals then. I'll keep looking at my diagrams to see if I can find it. You should be able to find out if you have a factory service manual pretty easy. Guy

Congrats but, So give us some specs on what your almost ready to drive! Guy

Your injectors should ohm out at around 12-15ohms. As for testing them, you should really use a "noid" light" but you can use a 12V test light. The noid light is designed not to put any extra load/draw on the injector circuit so you dont run the risk of damaging the computer. So using a 12V test light may or may not damage your PCM. I've seen plenty of guys use it without any harm to the PCM. The first thing I would do is check your fuses on your harness. I know the factory harness has two 7.5A fuses, one for each bank of injectors. Guy

You should see the prices for a 280ZX then! $450 for just the t-top weatherstrips. I have it priced out for the whole car at around $1000! I wish I could only spend $600! Guy

I would be interested if the hood had a more aggressive look to it over stock, some nice vents or a cowl. I would probably go for the $480 hood. Guy

I am using an MSD fuel pump(good for 500HP I believe), -6AN hard line from the pump to the firewall, then I have -6AN SS lines from the hard line into a Mallory fuel filter, from there it goes into the back of the fuel rail where I have a -6AN fitting that is welded onto the back of the rail, then the fuel comes out the other rail froma -6AN fitting that is welded on the back of the rail and into a Aeromotive adjustable fuel pressure regulator(I am running 45psi), from the regulator it goes into a -6AN hard line back to the tank. Guy

I installed a new MAF("counter measure" MAF as Nissan calls it) and flashed the ECM with special software for the new MAF. Car runs like a million bucks now! I think the car that I swapped the MAF out of the first time is either not the same MAF or the PCM programming was not for that MAF. All I know is that headache is out of my life! Guy

Hey guys Im looking for a little help here... I have a 2000 Maxima with a 3.0L VG30 that I've been fighting with for a few days at work. The problem I'm having is that on cold start up it idles rough. Also when flooring the gas pedal while driving it doesn't want to go full power, just kind of bogs down and slowly gains speed. I'm not sure if these two problems are related yet or not. Now if you only go about 50%-70% throttle the car will get up to speed no problem. Here's what I've done.... New EGR control valve New EGR Temp sensor Cleaned EGR passage into intake New intake gasket Checked for any vacuum leaks-none found Checked o2's for responsiveness-all ok Swapped in 6 coils from a known good running car-no change Updated the ECM to the latest version-no help Swapped the MAF with a known good one-no help Swapped the intake air temp sensors with a known good one-no help Checked the resistance of all 6 injectors(all @ about 13 ohms-good) Flushed injectors with "BG injector cleaner" Checked spark plugs for excessive wear-they look fairly new Cleaned the 2 ground wires by the oil fill cap-no help Performed relearn for IAC sensor-no help Performed O2 sensor relearn-no help I am fresh out of ideas and so is everyone else I've talked to. I've tried searching the web but haven't found anything that I haven't already tried! Guy

This is what the adapter from modern motorsports looks like.... This is what my car looks like with 17x7 Konig Monsoon's on it. They have BFG KD 225/45/17 tires. The wheels are made for a honda, +40mm offset... Guy

I say if your dumb enough to not strap your helmet then you deserve what you got coming to you! Guy

Ummmm this post is like 7 months old..... Welcome aboard though! Guy

I had a similar issue when I was running the 93' PCM and harness. Turns out my o2 sensor wires were crossed from the PCM so my left bank o2 sensor was controlling the right bank and vise versa. My harness was a modified stock harness(it was Darius's old harness before he switched to a stand alone). Also make sure your injectors are plugged into the right ones. I could see those getting crossed from side to side pretty easy. Is your harness a stock harness or a painless? Guy

Hey look at it this way....no more Maxima/Altima rear subframe recalls! I work at a Nissan dealership too and I have to say that recall is getting very old! I really don't think they can fire you if you have a doctors note unless you have a history of calling in. In which case they might have a leg to stand on... Guy