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Everything posted by 80LS1T
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Yeah and take a look at the Armada vs Durango.... Guy
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How much "jacking" do you do that you need a air powered jack? LOL(sorry couldn't resist). Guy
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EVO has nothing but tranny problems! Even stock EVO's are blowing up trannies. Seems like our Mitsu tech is always pulling a tranny out of one the crap boxes. They are fast as all hell out of the whole though! But they loose a little speed on the top end. Guy
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This is what 30psi and a 200shot of Nitrous Does To a Turbo...
80LS1T replied to slownrusty's topic in Non Tech Board
That's what I was thinking! Soooooo Yasin, what's the story behind this? -
Which one should I get if I get the progressive one? The .454 or the .45? Also I should be able to get a .44 die for the same reloader so that me and my roomate can go in on it together right? Oh and I would never go with a single press, I had a progressive shotgun shell reloader and it was the best thing since sliced bread! I could pump out 100 shells in about 7-8 minutes! If the primer trayn didn't screw up here and there it would have been a little faster but MEC just couldn't seem to come up with a primer feeder that worked decent! Guy
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Jesus is there anything this board doesn't know about guns! I think you guys know more about loading bullets than building engines! LOL I loaded my own shotgun shells when I was tournment shooting so I know the basics on reloading. I had to reload because I was going through 1000 shells a week easy! My GF's dad is big into loading shells and bullets so he should be able to help me get what I need to load. I will have to talk to my roomate about buying a press together so we can load our our bullets. That should keep the inital cost down! Thanks for all the links Grumpy! Guy
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I swapped in the 130mph for the 85mph speedo back when my car was pretty much stock. After I was done the only thing that didn't work was the cruise? I didn't really ever look into why though. I just knew that there was a small difference in the backs of them, one had an extra wire or something(can't really remember, it was like 5-6 years ago). I just like knowing how fast I was going after 85mph! Guy
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Yeah I know I go from wanting not much recoil to lots of recoil. But after talking to a few gun shop owners the general consensus was that a .41, .44, .454, or a .500 was needed/recommend to take deer down with out an issue. No competitions for the big guns huh? Oh well I guess I will just have to compete with my roomate, he also bought a gun tonight! He got a S&W .44 revolver with a 2X scope. We can't wait to get out there and shoot on Sunday! What kind of recoil can I expect? I have shot a 12ga with it straight out from 1 hand(not against the shoulder, would it be something like that? I'm not really scared of the recoil, I just don't know what to expect?
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Well I bought a "Raging Bull" .454! I will have some pics on Sunday after I pick it up. It has more of a mirror finish than the one in Grumpy's pic and I think the barrel is a tad shorter. I had a 2X power scope put on also. All in all I paid $791 for the whole set up. I traded in my Ruger Red Label over and under shotgun for $750 so I only shelled out $41! Man I can't wait to start shooting this thing! I was a competitive shooter with my over and under but I have since got bored with it so I might get into hand gun shooting competition now! Guy
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Ok I know we have some real gun nuts on the board so here's what I'm looking for.... I am looking for a new handgun to hunt deer with. I live in a shotgun only zone in my state but handguns are permited. I am not really sure what to get. I was looking at the 7mm-08(Thompson, I believe) but I am having some trouble finding one. I don't want a .44 mag(kicks too much to be accurate for me) but a .357 might be a choice. What are some guns you guys would recommend for the job?(calibers/brands) I am looking at something that can take a deer down from 100 yards or closer. I am thinking I will want a scope on it too for the longer shots. Thanks, Guy
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^^^^I second what wheelman said^^^^^ Guy
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It looks like you're trying to post on Hybridz....
80LS1T replied to auxilary's topic in Non Tech Board
Now thats funny, I don't care who you are! This NEEDS to be a smiley! Guy -
Since you bought it used you must have some $$$ left over? I have a buy who has a new turbo kit for sale! PM if your your interested. Guy
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Rb25det 280z v/s Hennessey Twin Turbo Viper VID
80LS1T replied to J Taylor's topic in Non Tech Board
How pissed would you be if you owned the Viper? I mean you spend $80K on the car and probably another $20K on the Hennessey TT kit? I personally would be pissed! Nice kill! I hope the owner doesnt turn into a A-Hole if you beat him after he gets "some sticky tires"(lame ass excuse if you ask me, if you have a 100K car you can afford sticky tires all the time!) Guy -
Doesnt that MPH seem a little low for those power numbers and considering the weight of the car? I mean Mas280, is running low 10's with those type of numbers @ 136mph. Smells a little fishy to me! Guy
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There aren't any that I know of other than the JTR's for the rack and pinion set ups, which are the shorties like you said. If you have the reciprocating ball type steering then you are pretty much out of luck all together because no one that I know of makes a set of bolt on headers. Most guys use ramhorn style manifolds. I used a block hugger on the passenger side and built one for the drivers side(shorty). Guy
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WOW I love that color combo in both forms! I might go that route now too, just not sure which way?! Guy
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Not to mention the LT1 needs more like 45-50psi. Sounds like you found your problem! I wonder what the check engine light was for though??? Guy
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That 6 speed from the 350z can barely handle the power that 3.5L is putting out. There would be no way that it could handle the torque of a V8. You would have to open it up and build it up to make it worth swapping and by then you could have just bought a T56 that can handle 400ft-lbs of TQ stock. Guy(Nissan tech who has replaced quite a few 350z trannies! )
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Well I'm glad it worked out for you! I really wish you had moved to WI though! I really wanted to see/ride in your car! I had to do something similar a few months ago at my previous job. Basically they didnt want to pay me for what I thought I was worth so I switched from a Dodge dealership to a Nissan dealership and I should make $15,000 more this year with out actually working any more that I already was! I had no idea at the time that my pay would increase that much but I figured WTH I got nothing to loose! Best part is that the previous dealership that I was at is now going out of business because not long after I quite a few other good techs, parts guys, and sales guys also jumped ship and now the dealership is FOR SALE! HEHEHEHEHHE! Like Mike said upper managment is stupid for not taking care of the good people! They just look at "well we can save some money on wages if we let one of the older employees go...." Good help is hard to find now a days and I think paying more for a good quality employee is better that paying 2 dumb asses to do the job you were doing by yourself! Guy
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That's how I wired mine too. I haven't had any issues either. Guy
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Usually a MAF going bad will give you some kind of warning, like running rough at certain RPMS. That's what I've seen anyways. I would try the SD mode like stated above too. Does your LT1 have a crank sensor? I dont think they put them in till 96' but thats a possible cause of a no start. How do you know your getting fuel? Not fuel pressure but actual fuel out of the injectors.... Guy
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Check A/F Ratio with 02 Sensor and Multimeter?
80LS1T replied to 280zwitha383's topic in Non Tech Board
The problem with using those "broken" sensors is that the heater is a very important part of getting an accurate A/F reading. If you did use them you would have to mount them very high up in the exhaust stream so that they would get hot enough to read correctly. Even then it might not be a 100% accurate. I dont think its even possible to use a single wire o2 to get accurate readings. It wasn't really intended to give that accurate of a reading and I wouldn't trust a 1 volt sensors to do the job of a 5 volt sensor. Again it has no heater so results might be less than ideal. It was really intended to rear rich or lean, not a specific value for rich or lean. Personally spending $400 on an LM-1 was worth it because I dont plan to ever stop working on cars and I can use it over and over. Plus I can get some of that back when buddies with out one want to use it or have me use it because I can charge them a small fee for wear and tear on the sensor since it will eventually wear out. Guy -
I would check fuses and run extra grounds from the engine to battery. I have seen some weired electrical stuff cause by poor grounds or not enough grounds. Also did you turn your a/c off and try starting it? Guy
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I did the same thing to my enigne bay after painting my enigne bay and realizing that if you ever need to work on your engine you will scratch and chip the paint very easily. I used "Herculiner" though and did it my self with a roller. I also coated the wheel wells and the underside of the car in it. I personally think it looks great inside the wheel wells and under the car. I would have rather had the paint under the hood but I am more of a "function over bling" kind of guy so the bedliner works for me! As for scraping your knuckles, yeah it can do some damage but its not that bad. I think it might be possible to sand this stuff down to make it smoother. So that might be an option. This stuff is tough as nails thats all I know! I had everything out of my engine bay when I did this and patched all the tiny holes that are in the fenders and firewall that were used for brackets and lines with the stock motor. It was time consuming but worth the extra effort. Guy