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80LS1T

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Everything posted by 80LS1T

  1. Whoooo whoooooo whoooooo.......whats going on with the Goose? New drivetrain or are we just warming it up? Guy
  2. Yes you have to have 2 years of experience to get the actual certifications. 2 years of Tech school count as 1 year of work experience. I have been in the field for about a year and a half, so I just have to send it the piece of paper that they sent me with my results showing that I have the 2 years of experiece. Guy
  3. Yeah I've ordered stuff form Thunder racing before. Lots of good stuff but you gotta check the prices out other places before you buy from them. Their SPEC clutches are a little on the high side. I am looking for a steel flywheel because I plan on taking my car the 1/4 mile track so I dont want to worry about the flywheel taking the abuse that it will get while there. Man I though for sure someone would have a hook up on a billet steel flywheel for less than $300? Guy
  4. Well about a month ago I took 4 of my ASE tests. I took A1(Engine Repair), A4(Steering & Suspension), A5 (Brakes), and A6 Electrical/Electronic Systems). The only test that I was a little worried about passing was my engine repair test because I didnt study for it at all. And when I opened that test book up I was bombarded with questions that I had never even thought about. However I got 48/60 right! Only need 41 to pass the test! I just passed my S&S test with a 29/40, you need 26 to pass. I hate S&S, its just not my specialty! I love engine releated issues and eletrical. I got a 44/50 on my electrical! God I'm so happy right now!!!!! This means its time to ask for a raise!!!!!! Guy
  5. Sounds like you've got a good plan to me. If your engine is just "warmed up" with a cam then I would say you should be safe with a stock tranny. It all depends on how you abuse it. Guy
  6. Im trying to find some prices for a billet steel flywheel for my LT1/T56. The only one I can find is from Centerforce? Who else sells them and for how much? The CF is about $340ish. Thanks, Guy
  7. Wow man, when your down your down. Sorry to hear about all the bad news. Keep your head up and remeber things will get better, just give it time. Guy
  8. Well Im not sure on the color of the flame.....I was too busy putting the fire on my hand out! LOL
  9. He's a funny little story for ya..... So I was at work this past Saturday. I got a work order for a "tranny flush and filter" on a 99' Ram 1500. So I go to parks get my filter and gasket. Come back fill up the tranny flusher. Then I proceed to take down the tranny pan with my 3/8" 9.6 volt makita electric impact(these things are great!FYI). So after I get all but 2 of the bolts out I put my hand under the pan to keep pressure on it so that the pan doesnt drop when I take the last 2 bolts out. Well when I was taking out the last bolt some fluid spilled out and got all over my electric impact, no big deal happens all the time...... So later when Im working on a Durango lock actuator I decied to go get my cordless impact to take the door panel off. Well its still all full of tranny fluid so I spray some(ok it was a lot) brake clean on it an proceed to clean it off. Well I decieded that if I hit the trigger it would dry out the inside of it.........wrong move! Yeah even though you cant see any sparks in side from the electric motor.........their there!!!!!! So the brake clean ignited along with the brake clean that was on MY HAND into a huge fire ball!!!!!!!! Yeah so I throw the impact on the ground........that spatters brake clean in about a 3' circle......floor starts on fire(concrete).........yeah my hands still on fire right now........so I start waving my hand around like a mad man.....put the fire out on my hand afte about 2-3 seconds of it looking like the olympic torch!!!!...........then i blew out the fire on teh floor and my impact! yeah there's no hair on my hand any more and holy $hit talk about a wake up call at 10 o'clock in the morning! My hand is fine and so is my impact, only the brake clean burned so all is good but it sure was a scary few seconds let me tell ya! Yeah I felt like a moron! Just cause you can't see the sparks from the electric motor doesnt mean their not there!!!!!!!! Guy
  10. 80LS1T

    UTI or WYOTECH

    Now I did not go to either school but, I have worked with 3 different guys who have gone to UTI in Chicago. So far I am not impressed with what they learned. They dont know anymore than I do I and only went to a local Tech. for my Associates Degree in Automotive Technolgy. Now Im not saying its a bad school but for how much it costs to go there I just havent seen the benefits so far? *One guy gets fired all the time for F-ing this up all the time(hes just a dumbass if you ask me!) He's worked at atleast 20 different shops in teh last 3 years. You would think he'd learn! *The second guy I know used to work with me but went back to Jauguar school down in FL. He has a cool guy but didnt know jack about basic auto technology. He claimed to be a electronic wiz but he could diagnose an electrical problem if someone gave him the answer to the problem! *The third guy, is a guy I work with now. He seems to know the basics. He's one of those guys who can get a car running anyway possible but its probably no the safest to drive after hes done. He's a "get'r dun" type of guy. He's got potential. Like any guy straight out of tech(my self included, 2 years ago), your going to make dumb mistakes and not be able to figure out problems on your own. That's why they keep all the old guys around! LOL Like Mike said "you can learn alot but its up to you to learn it, whatever you put in you will get info out of it." If your paying for school then I say just go to your local Tech but if you got a scholarship or someone else is footing the bill then I say go to UTI or WY Tech. Guy
  11. There isnt really a place that sells them cheap. I too need new weather stripping for my 280ZX. The T-Top seals are about $225 each!!!! Try doing a search for "280ZX weather stripping" I recently just posted a list of where I am going to get mine. Im not sure which forum it was in though? Guy
  12. Just so you know Dave no longer has his ZX. He sold it a few months ago. Although he does come on the site once and a while to see what's up. Like Magnum said though, hooking up even a mild V8 to a nissan AT tranny is not the best idea or the cheapest idea. You can get used 700R4's from the salvage yard for like $500 and you wont need any special parts to hook it up to the V8. Plus the ZX AT tranny isnt really that strong. Guy
  13. Like he said though, if you dont need the extra octane dont use it cause you wont make more power. Infact you wil make less. I made up some "homebrewed" high octane gas this summer to see if it made any difference. I think it was supposed to be like 106 octane or something like that. I used Xyolen(sp?), atf, and mineral spirits. My car actually got slower with it because I wasnt getting a complete burn because the octane was too high. I ran noticably faster with the 93 octane in my car. Just an FYI! Guy
  14. Yes both a SBC and a SBF will fit. Heck there is even one guy on this board that has a small block mopar engine in his. There is no hood cutting required with the right set up. Do a search for "280ZX V8" and start reading. There is a ton of info on this great site. Guy
  15. Hehe......the good old blown exhaust manifold gasket. Right before I started the motor swap on my 280ZX I blew that gasket on my L28E. I dont think there is an easy way about going about it. I know I took off the whole intake and then just pulled the header back enough to get the gasket in there. But I dont think its possible to just slid it in there with the intake onlike you want to do. Yeah its a PITA but its a pretty straight forward fix. Just mark all those vacuum lines so you know where they all go when you put it back together! Good luck! Guy
  16. I can tell you one thing for sure......DONT BUY A STICK WELDER! I bought a stick welder from Sears for like $100. Yeah it works fine on flat stock and when your working on bench but my god what a PITA when trying to weld on a car or exhaust work. I now have a "Lincoln WeldPak 100" MIG welder. It has the abiltity to covert to gas built in. I bought the extra kit to covert it to gas right away. I love it! First I used the roll of flux core wire that was supplied with it then I switched over to the solid wire. Man I will never go back to flux core wire. I love welding with gas and solid wire. Much better welds and much easier to weld thin panels with. I think I paid like $475-500ish for the welder and the coversion kit(I cant really remember?) I had to cut out the rust hole in the spare tire area in my 280ZX so that I could make it my battery compartment. So once the rust spot was cut I out I welded in a new 22 gauge panel in its place. Sure made life easy with the wirefeed welder! I could have never done it with that stupid stick welder. Oh and like they said dont skimp on a helmet. Just spend the money on a auto darkening helmet right away. I had a regular one and now I have an auto darkening one, all I can say is I dont know why I didnt buy one of these sooner! Makes starting a weld soooooooooooo much easier! I think I paid like $150 for my helmet. Guy
  17. I assume your going to be doing a LS1 swap? If so, your going to need a cherry picker to get out the old engine and install the new engine once you start the swap. So buy it now or buy it later!
  18. You could seperate them, I mean its only like 6 bolts and pulling out the shift fork enough to seperate the tranny from the clutch? That would really make it easier to lift. I mean that T56 weights a good 100lbs+...... Guy
  19. The LT1 style of T56 is a pull type clutch set up where as the LS1 style is a push type clutch set up also. They may be called the same thing but they are not. Just sell the LT1 T56 and buy a LS1 T56. Guy
  20. Man i really like that dull grey(3rd pic) and that orange(2nd pic) car you photoshoped, Ed!!! I wish I could photoshop like that! Guy
  21. The paints that you see for sale that are "for exhaust parts" (atleast thats what the picture shows) are a joke IMHO. They will not last and only look good for the first start up, then once that manifold gets up to operating temp, it will burn off. Yeah the can may say 1500* but it will not withstand those temps for very long if at all. Ceramic coats are really the only way to go if you want exhaust parts to last or look good. Or just make it all out of SS, atleast then it will only change color and not rust! Guy
  22. I too have heard that the wrap isnt really the best replacement for a heatshield. Most guys say it ends up rotting out what ever they have covered? I have not used it though so no first hand experiece there.... I too have heard that you dont want a mirror like finish for the intake. Whats the expected power out of the "new" set up? Guy
  23. Yeah those 2 tiny hinges are really going to hold that door! It would be pretty funny to see that door fall right off the car and one of these ricer meets! Guy
  24. Now that car looks like its worth $15K were as the other car just posted doesnt even look like its worth $10K. This would be a sweet set up for a guy looking to jump right into racing. Guy
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