80LS1T

I have driven a SC Frontier and I was NOT impressed. You couldnt even tell it was SC'd, other than a tiny squealing noise from the SC(normal SC noise). Im sure if you put some differnt parts on it and tuned it for a light weight car it could be nice but a truck engine in a light weight car is not ideal because all the power is set up to be down low. IMHO Guy

Is this the "kit" your are refering too? Do you have yours yet? Im trying to figure out how that attaches to the stock rail? Do you keep the old hard lines or does this eliminate them and then attach these to the rail? Guy

I thought you were going to say you sprayed your Z with the red spray paint! Im glad your pretty much ok! We've all been there and done something like this, I just cant think of one I've done but Im sure theres one there Im forgetting! Guy

I know I've seen people with AN fittings on LT1 fuel rails before but I dont have any pics of it and Im not sure how to go about it? I am going to install new hard line from the fuel tank to a filter on the firewall(cartrige type) then run SS lines to the fuel rail. I would like the lines coming from the fuel filter to be SS and connected with AN fittings. Im just not sure how to do it? Anyone got some info on how to go about this? And pics would be good too? Thanks, Guy EDIT: Ok I found some info on LT1tech.com. Seems most guys TIG weld in fittings to the rail. Now can I put the supply on one rail and the return on the other rail? So then I would just install the fittings on the back of each rail and delete the old ports by filling them in(welding over them). I would guess that this means I need an aftermarket regulator then? Once I get this rail situation figured out the rest should be pretty straight forward. Also were is good place to get AN fittings for cheap? We got any venders out there that will sell them for cheap to a fellow Hybrider?!

WTF!!!!!!! Wow, after reading a few posts I thought its was just going to be another rusty Z but the fact that hes even trying to sell that......unbelievable!!!!!!! Guy

What makes you think a R200 will hold up to that much TQ/HP? I think most guys say the R200's limit is high 400's-500HP. If your going with a 500 caddy then I would suggest the R230 set up. there is probably(I have no idea?) a few more choices for the R230 than the R200 and its a lot stronger. Thats just me though Guy

Cant say I care for the sound that 4 banger is making but I can deffinetly appreciate the power its putting out! Guy PS I need some crappy tires so I can do burn outs like that!!

I bought my 93' LT1/T56 combo from them 2 years ago. Arrived in great condtion along with the driveshaft, pedal assebly, wiring, PCM, and torque tube. I would buy from them again also! Guy

Exactly! Any guy who knows what he's talking about when it comes to dyno numbers knows not to compare one dyno to the next. Stick to one dyno and then tune off of that one. That way you will know just how much of a difference each mod did after the install! Guy

I was looking too a while back..... heres the post with some info.... http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=32981&highlight=280zx+weather+stripping The cheapest I found for the t-top weatherstrips was atThe Z Shop . $225 per side. Here's the list of where I plan to get mine... Part Name/Vendor/Part #/Cost/Quantity/Total Cost Front turn signal lense- LEFT/VB/80-884/$12.95/1//$12.95 Front turn signal lense- RIGHT/VB/80-886/$12.95/1/$12.95 Front turn signal lense gaskets/VB/53-648/$2.95/2/$5.90 Tail Lamp Gaskets- LEFT/VB/53-684/$12.95/1/$12.95 Tail Lamp Gaskets- RIGHT/VB/53-685/$12.95/1/$12.95 Windsheild Molding Clip- TOP/VB/97-622/$44.95/1/$44.95 Windsheild Molding Clip- Bottom/VB/97-624/$42.95/1/$42.95 Rear Hatch Seal- Outter/VB/59-737/$99.95/1/$99.95 Rear Hatch Seal- Outter-Upper/VB/59-857/$19.95/1/$19.95 Rear Hatch Seal- Inner/VB/59-855/$49.95/1/$49.95 Body w/stripping for t-tops RH/Z Shop/76850-S130/$225.00/1/$225.00 Body w/stripping for t-tops LH/Z Shop/76851-S130/$225.00/1/$225.00 Door w/stripping- RH/Z Shop/80830-S130/$70.00/1/$70.00 Door w/stripping- LH/Z Shop/80831-S131/$70.00/1/$70.00 Rear Hatch Body w/stripping/MSA/34-1147/$82.29/1/$82.29 There are a few extra parts in there like the front turn signal lenses and teh windshield trim hold down clips but thats pretty much all the weather stripping that you'll need for a 280ZX with t-tops! Guy

Unless your building a stump puller, it would be pretty pointless. As for a turbo diesel with a 6 speed tranny......yeah wouldnt recommend that either unless your pulling a huge load. With the new Cummins and 6 speed gear box.......1st gear only gets you to 6mph then you shift again, then at about 13mph you shift into 2nd then at about 25 mph you shift into 3rd! Yeah 3 shifts before for you get to 30mph! Now I know these big trucks have some serious gearing in the rear but damnnnnnnnnnn! One day at work we put a 2004 Dodge Ram 3500 Cummins 4X4 Duelly in 4 low to see how fast it could go.........3mph top end! in 1st! But it would pull the house right off your foundation! Diesels are for trucks if you ask me! Guy

I think you guys messed up the wording..... you mean a 200R4 not a R200.........right? A R200 is a differental and a 200R4 is a tranny? I assume your looking for the tranny and not the diff? Most junk yards would have a 200R4 or you could go on ebay? Guy

Im not sure on the HP/TQ output of those engines back then but I would guess that their around 200HP stock. I would highly suggest not going with the TH350 or TH400 unless you only plan to drag races. They are 3 speed trannys with no overdrive. This makes for bad gas milage on the highway and not to mention its annoying driving at 65mph @3000rpms! Trust me, I had a 3 speed with my L28 and I hated driving that thing at highway speeds! Go with a 700R4 if you want an auto or a WC T5 for a manual(or if you got the $$$ a T56 for a manual tranny). You will be much happier in the end! Guy

Do either of you guys have a vaccum gauge? If so check to see what kind of vaccum your engine is producing. Chances are if you have a large cam you wont have very much vaccum. If you engine is stock however it should supply more than enough vaccum to that brake booster to aid in braking. A stock engine is usually around 20" of vaccum just for referrence. However, your(tony) problem seems more like a leaking master cylinder. Not externally leaking but internally leaking past the cups in the MC. Also if the fluid is not leaking out then where is it going? Do you still have the stock rear drums? Make sure the wheel cyclinders arent leaking. That would also cause a low pedal and would explain for the loss of fluid. Make sure to also bleed out he MC, then bleed out the braks starting at the furthest away form the MC and work your way up to the closest. Guy

You should have rearranged all the cars and then dropped off the keys the next day. Guy

If diesels dont have valves, then how does the A/F mixture get into the chamber and how does that spent A/F mixture get out? Diesels do have valves. They do not have spark plugs. Because they run at such high compression(ex. 20:1) there is no need for a spark. Once that air is compressed in a diesel engine it will ignite the fuel as soon as it is sprayed into the chamber, due to the high compression causing so much heat that it just ignites. The only reason diesels have glow plugs is for cold start applications. Once the engine is warm the glow plugs are turned off. The only real differences that a diesel engine has from a gas engine is the hight compression and the lack of an "ignition" system. Guy

I gotta say Im impressed with how well that Neon went through the mud! Must be nice to be rich and not care if you wreck your new car! Guy

Yeah those are the pieces that Im talking about. Your the first guy who knew what I was talking about when I asked if they wanted to sell them! I'll PM you with an offer! Guy

Thanks for measurements and the pics! Now I just have to determine if it will fit! Guy

Nice job with making 1 car out of 2! Do you still have the old parts car? I am having trouble locating those chrome trim pieces that hold down the t-tops. If you got them let me know how much you want for them! Guy

If the 88' Turbo car that you got your LSD from is WHITE then you will for sure not be able to use your old axles. If it wasnt WHITE then you should be able to use the axles from an open R200 with CV's. I hope your not one of the guys bidding on that diff. on ebay. That guy will not answer any of my questions. Plus in the pic it doesn show any pinion flange. Trying to get just a pinion flange with out he diff. is a nightmare! Guy

Now Mat be sure to hook up all that emissions stuff on the tank! LOL I take it that stuff will be removed and blocked off? Can you take a pic from the sides of that tank. It looks pretty flat from the pic you got there, which is a good thing cause the 280ZX is pretty flat. Also what are the rough dimensions on that tank? Thanks, Guy

I think I will vent it out to near the gas cap. I'll put one of those vent lines like used on a front or rear differental on a truck. It has a cap on it and just allows the diff. to vent but keeps out debre. The whole point of gettting the EVAP line and canister out of the engine bay for me is to make it less cluttered. Plus I didnt have the line hooked up so that it could vent into the engine. I just want anything thats not serving a purpose out the engine bay! Guy

I dont actually think it will help out much if at all. Im sure it wont hurt it. Those lines coming off the back of the head are not really there for cooling purposes but to releive any "steam"/ air that gets trapped in the heads. This way you dont get hotspots in the heads that could cause detonation. Guy

Ok I've seen trucks in camo.........but a Trans AM! WTF! Guy