jaime240z

Maybe a pic will help...? Stub axles are on top, companion flanges (adapters in this case) are on the bottom. Not oem pieces but it gets the point across. If you swap stub axles, make sure you keep the correct spacers that go with your housing.

Hey no worries ! I was initially planning on going with 275s in the rear. Actually I think Mike's setup looks GREAT and I was trying to get that same "look". Now I almost wish I had gone a bit wider in the rear, only to have more tire options. 275 and 285 will get the job done, but 315s would be NIIICE !!! If I would have seen how you can tuck 275s under the stock quarters earlier I would have thought about NOT flaring my car. Either way looks good IMO.

WOW Vinny those rear tires are nicely tucked! However I think it may be a different story on a 10.5" rear wheel even with a 275 tire. I would go for the 285 on the rear. There are less tire choices but I think it would be a better match on the rear wheel CCW 10.5 rear with 5.5" BS:

Ditto on that one. I agree, John at CCW was very knowlwdgable and helpfull over the phone. He took my order and had great customer service. But you want to make sure they are aware of any changes to your suspension and hubs as these items may change your specs from stock. 4.5 or 5" BS will not be enough in most modified Z with coilovers, actually I guess it will work but the wheel will be pulled out far away from the strut unnecessarily. I would suggest taking off one of your current wheel/tire combos. lay it flat on the ground with the wheel face down. If you have any spacers or adapters, remove them from the hub and place them into the wheel mounting suface, as if you were going to mount them on the car. Then measure your current backspacing by pacing a straight edge across the inner lip (not the bead) of the wheel. use another ruler or tape to measure the distance between the mounting surface on the wheel center and the straightedge on the wheel lip. This will give you your current BS and help you make a descision with what BS you will want. More BS will push the wheel in towards the strut and less BS will move the wheel out away from the strut.

Congrats on the purchase! I'm sure you will be happy with the CCWs!!! On mine, I also have 17x9 front and 17x10.5 rear also. I would forget about offset and just try to figure out backspace as the 2 are related anyways and IMO BS is easier to figure out. Mine are 5.25" front BS and 5.5" rear BS. Keep in mind I am using the AZC 5 lug hubs and sectioned 240z struts. This fitment is perfect for my car. The way I figured mine out is by measuring the current BS on the wheels that where already on my car ( I also have a set of oem Ford Mustang wheels) I used these as reference. I imagine you have a set of wheels on you car now....just measure the BS on those wheels and go from there. The nice thing about the CCWs is you can have them made to order and delete the need to use spacers or adapters. Hope this helps.

Go for it! I did and don't regret it at all. Money well spent on the CCWs. I also have the CF ZG flares and they look great with blacked out classics!

from your album page I belive you can simply right click on the picture, copy and paste in your new post. It's easier to open 2 browsers at the same time if you're going to cut/paste multiple pics. Nice swap BTW! Looks great How much different are the LS2 mounts compared to the LS1?

Which valance are you talking about? front/rear? OEM replacement?

Hey congrats! I'm a big fan of the Titan's looks and performance. Do you think that Titan V8 will fit in a Z...........? buwahaha

Well if you're going to do an LS1 swap you will have to use the JCI kit. JTR does not make LS1 mounts for the Z. JTR does sell LS1 headers and tranny mounts which will work with the JCI ls1 mounts. That answers that. As far as which year S30 to choose from. For me, this was decidied by local laws in CA. I needed something smog exempt. I would check around your state if you plan on making this car "street legal" with an engine swap. This may very well be your deciding factor too. Any year will make a good candidate for the swap as long as you have a solid car to begin with and you invest a little time and moey in proper reinforcemnt of the subframe, etc. Search around a little .... What should you expect to run into....? Rust, lots of down time, rust, unexpected costs. I see you are in AZ, you might be lucky as for as getting a rust free car, but still be sure to check out the car for any collision damage that is as easy to hide as rust can be. Take your time finding a car. The cleanerthe car is before you start the swap the nicer it can be in the end with minimal mods. And of course, welcome aboard. I'm sure you will find all the info you need here.

AUX, last time I was there (I/O) it seems the guy is running things from his home, unless there was a shop somewhere else that he forgot to mention. I bet he has big items like roll bars shipped direct from the mfr. In that case I guess there is no escaping the shipping charges

Thanks for the heads up! That's about 5 min from me!!!!

...hey....is that a neodyminum magnet in your pocket, or are you just happy to see me.............. :twisted:

I was also checking out the euro lenses on ebay. It looks like too intense got ZERO buyers for the euro sets on an auction that ended earlier this week. I wonder if klearz is their supplier....? I seriously want to try a set of these repops.

WOW That's a smokin' deal on the Bride wheel! I wish I would have known that before I dropped big buck$$ on my MOMO.

Are you checking the "resistance" with just the stub axle alone in place. I thought the same thing of mine, however, once you have the rotor and wheel assembly in place, mine spin more freely thanks to the added weight of those components.

I can't comment on the rig but I can say that I have purchased from IOC before and they are great! Fast shipping and good prices. I'm not a spokesman for their company but I will give credit where it's due.

....3 years later and I'm still an unknown quality at this point.... ...3 years later and my car is still in a bunch of boxes in the garage....... coincidence.....?????

you have mail! Hopefully it worked. If not LMK.

what's your email?

I say go fro it! If it's located close by and you have cash in hand they might even cut you a deal. You figure the seller will be saving on any "fees" if you buy it up front. Seems like a good deal and milage is good. That thing is barely broke-in!!!

I'm interested in the DAD seats too. What's the deal with them? Are they just not making them anymore?