PanzerAce

Looks damn clean. How much power are you/expecting to put down?

Why would it be the carbs? You said that they are delivering fuel. Check your firing order first I would say, and then maybe if you are even getting enough power to the plugs.

Sea Foam is awesome. I managed to score a can of it for free, and that single can cleared up 90% of my engine problems. The other 10% just involved tearing some insulation out to let the engine cool better.

Man, that's a nice look. Almost makes me want to do a DD setup like that with a V8 (Long hwy cruises (3+ hours) at night would be fun with plenty of light...)

OP: You asked for real numbers on a L31. I have an L30, Rebello built (the E88 head as well). 9.8:1 CR, cam is on the wild side for Zs, and I'm getting about 250 at the wheels. The thing about Ls is that they are going to be torquey. You won't necessarily see high HP numbers, but the torque curve is what makes them good. Personally, I'd go with a V8 though.

Tagging this for later. I'm digging the interior lights, but I'minterested in how they are at night, since it seems as though they might be overly bright. I find sometimes that especially with the anemic lighting system of the old Zs that having as few lights on in the interior, the better (I'll even turn the radio off to kill the lights on that).

Methinks you aren't factoring in the cost of the methanol....

If by brakes locking up on you, you mean that you slammed the brakes and started skidding, the last thing you want is to switch to discs. The problem is that your brakes are TO powerful for the car (or atleast, you were pushing them to hard). Get some more grip before you upgrade the brakes.

I just realized I never took the pictures. brb

I think I actually have EXACTLY what you are looking for in my car, but I won't be able to get photos for another 4 hours or so. I'm running triple mikuni carbs, but I don't see why the firewall hardware would be any different.

If you search, You will find a fair number of threads about blow through setups, but here is one right off the bat: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=127595&highlight=HKS+plenum (mostly because it was bookmarked). IIRC, the majority of the side draft carbs on L series engines don't have to be completely enclosed, they just have to have the fuel bowl pressurized and the float swapped out.

ALWAYS push the fuel if you have a chance. It will prevent vapor lock in high temperatures, and I don't even know if you could get enough pressure to the injectors if you weren't pushing it.

What makes you think I can afford the gas Nah, it isn't that bad right now, since I get right on the freeway whenever I drive anywhere. It's why I'm looking for a new job though that will give me more hours. I really don't have a choice about DDing it either, as it's my only means of transportation

'scuse me, I need a new pair of pants, I'll brb.

Exactly what I was going to ask New wheels added to the list of stuff I need

towards the rear of the tank. Unfortunately, right now I need my car to often to have the time to drop the tank and JB weld the hole/replace whatever line is leaking. (I think it is a hole though, since it ONLY drips when I fill it up.)

save the fuel pump and use it on your Z? unless you already have one though.

Look at it this way, now your V8 will be able to turn What happened to the GTO anyways?

That's cheating though, it's like strapping a hamster to an Aim-9 sidewinder

Less weight is like having more power, except better

What is the condition of your fuel filter? I've seen clogged filters cause what you are describing.

Thanks for the help guys. As for where I want my power, I'm already running a pretty wild cam, so I'm used to a higher range power ban. Also, pyro, do you actually mean lag, or do you mean a higher boost threshold? and FYI: I hate it when people talk about 'stage' stuff for engines, since there is NO consistency to it.

I would love to see where you get that equation, as it COMPLETELY ignores that actual air requirements of the engine.

you laugh, but I've actually noticed significant gains/losses in mileage because of wind. Course, by wind I mean gusting to 50mph But here is another aspect for the thread reviver to consider: Torque/streetability. I don't know what specifically you are building the car for, but if you want to be able to drive it on the street alot and have fun, you need to make sure that you don't have to rev into the stratosphere before you start making power. I don't know the wtq figures for the SR20 vs. RB20, but I think you should look at that as well.

It sounds to me like the easiest/cheapest way for you to get your power goals of 300-350 (I'm assuming whp), at this point is with an Lxxet. As you mentioned, you ALREADY have the block for that, and that will be bored anyways. If I was at your point (well, I'm sort of there, L30 going to L30et), I would say bore the engine out, through a LD28 crank in there, dished pistons, and a turbo setup with MS. You should be able to make your power goals without to much trouble, and of course, as you mentioned, by keeping the L series engine, it keeps it a 'pure' Z.