PanzerAce

That is what would be called an interference engine, and no, I don't know if the L is one, or for that matter how much lift you would have to turn it into one.

Well, I don't have much in the way in input, but if you need someone to test them in extreme dry heat conditions, I could, considering the summer up here is usually 110+ with 0% humidity....

Cali smog laws are FUBAR, so you need to get around them somehow, and that was probably the cheapest way for it to be done from the factory. That is one of the reasons that I went with a pre-75 Z...

If you are short on money, I would say an L28et build, as the parts will be far easier to come by, and you don't even need to change the motor mounts.

I'd rock a new Z like that. I don't like the front though, having that hexagonal opening is.....bleh. Ditch the louvers and rework the rear end as mentioned above, fender mirrors...then I'd be one of the first in line. I would disagree with whoever said to make it an I-4 engine. I would vote keep it I-6, with both turbo and NA versions.

I don't want my turbos grenading under my fuel supply either

The HKS plenum you mean? I'd love to get my hands on one of those, but I've never seen one for sale and wouldn't know where to look.

I'd be more worried about how fast someone could make off with your turbos if they wanted to.

I read that thread, but the problem is that some of us do not have NEARLY the amount of money needed to build that kind of plenum, even IF the CNC file was released. Hell, if I could get one of those plenums, I wouldn't even have bothered thinking about this. Thanks for the link. Seems the biggest reason then is cost and dimensional considerations. I don't know where I read it, and it might not have been #1, but I thought I remembered reading somewhere on this site that one of the cylinders tended to have problems with sufficient airflow. *shrugs*

Remember though, that is a modern chassis, without much wear on it, with modern suspension, big tires, etc. And, the car itself is heavy. Putting that much power into a 30 or so year old car, without a redone suspension setup, on the narrower tires (unless you get flares), and it weighs FAR less, that is going to be a whole 'nother thing. Heck, my ~230whp is insane at WOT.

Did you check to see if you were getting spark before putting the plugs in? Are you sure that you are getting fuel? Double check that you have the plugs wired correctly to the dist as well.

Just a random thought that occurred to me, but has anyone ever mirrored (almost) a 6 into 1 exhaust setup, but for the intake side of the engine? It seems like I read alot about one or two of the cylinders with almost any intake (specifically the #1 cylinder), not getting enough air. But if the intake was split into six equally sized tubes right after the throttle, wouldn't that solve this issue? Has this even been tried before? Or is thinking and posting after being up for 18 hours on 2 hours of sleep a bad idea?

Cool guys, thanks for the help. I'm going to have to figure out my options, since I can't just optimize this engine for hot weather, as I also have to be able to drive it in below freezing weather as well during the winter.

Yes. I should have clarified, the issue with engine temp is only there at idle. At speed, it works just fine, but I was thinking of a spray bar to cool it back into the normal operating temp range (from the higher temp it gets to at idle), faster than just airflow would do (specially 100+ degree airflow)

Sounds to me like your clutch linkage is jacked up, since it isn't getting (fully) disconnected when you floor the clutch pedal. Did this just start, or did you work on the clutch recently and this only happened after that? Or has this been going on for awhile?

Got an aftermarket coil as well, but I'll check to make sure nothing is corroded there. I wouldn't have thought about that at all Is that where the gauge actually gets the rpm reading from?

Were there any Z models that came with a fan shroud stock that I could keep an eye out for at the pick-n-pull while I'm hunting down a fan as well? And not to be dense, but what coil are you referring to?

What is a good fan to use? And what would the clutch do anyways? I was under the impression that fan clutches were mostly to regulate the temp, but doesn't the water pump on the L engines do that?

I'll check the electrical connection, but I'm not seeing any other symptoms of electrical issues. No fan shroud/fan belt/water leaks/hose issues, checked those a little bit ago. I'm actually running an electric fan right now.

First, the problem. Today, with the glorious 100+ ambient air temp, I got in my Z, turned it on, and the tach claimed I was idling at about 2k rpm. I can hear that it is idling normally, but the tach has decided to bump everything up by just over a grand. When I have the power on but the engine isn't on, the tach is either at about 1000rpm (if the engine hasn't been run yet, since 'cold' doesn't really apply), to if I just shut the engine off, it'll bounce b/w 2750 and 3500rpm. I *think* this is related to heat, since it just started happening. Anyone have any advice on where I can start tracking down the problem on it? (Especially since I'm using the tach as my speedo for highway driving.....) Now for the question: Considering that this is the START of summer and it's already 100+, I was thinking of ways to run cooler. Does anyone know if there is some kind of ready made spray bar system for the radiator, or do I need to fabricate one myself? (As in spray water infront of the radiator to lower the ambient temp air charge). Thanks for the help guys.

Ok, yah, that makes more sense. Your first post sounded to me like the max hp and tq were hit at the same RPM, but you hit your tq peak at it looks like 5100 or so, and hp peak at...call it 5700+ everything makes sense now

Strake is, if not the proper term, a good one, as it describes their basic job (making air go where you want it in a generally straight direction). Example: Look at the early Mig fighters (-15 and -17). You could call them stall fences, but I don't think you are worrying about boundary separation from an airfoil and massive attack angles.

Cool, thanks for the info. Time to clean up the engine bay and get my google-fu up to speed to check engine serial number vs. production time. (in this case, nickel is good, right?)

guess I'll have to go wipe the grime off the side of the engine then, since all I can see on the block number is a 4, which doesn't help. So basically, if it is an F54 block, then swapping my E88 for a P90 and turbo would be a bad idea, period, but if it is a N42, it is ok to do?

The consensus seems to be to impose a redline for yourself at 7500rpm. Going above that alot apparently is a good way to start breaking things.