cockerstar

Doing a compression and leakdown test will tell us a lot about the condition the motor is in right now, and give you a good idea of what needs freshening. If the bottom end is solid still, $2500 could get you a very respectable set of heads. The low oil pressure probably doesn't indicate a solid bottom end though. I don't have leakdown gauges, but I do have a compression tester (it's a cheap one, but it gets the job done) if you'd like to borrow it. I don't know if you've ever gone to S&B before, but all of my experiences with them have been negative. Their prices are high, and the guy that is typically working (Ryan) tends to be very condescending. Maybe it's because I'm probably one of their younger customers, but my friends have had similar responses from him. We've all switched over to Auto Machine in Pasco (on Lewis St.) and have been very happy. I don't have any experience with Poynor Machine, but my friend speaks ill of them, mainly because of their prices. You're running a set of block-huggers right now, right? You're car is already a beast at 300hp! 50 more to the wheels will be quite a blast

Personally, I like it when BST threads get locked vs deleted, as it leaves a record of past and present parts values when we're looking to buy and sell.

Which thread are you looking for?

Ken, Where are you getting the machine work done? Where did you run it on the dyno? Does your budget include the $730 you've already spent, or is the $2500 additional to that? How well can the stock EMS play with things like a compression bump and aftermarket heads/cams?

I've got tests in my physics and inorganic chemistry classes tomorrow, so it's going to be an all day/night studying kind of thing. I really shouldn't be on hybridZ right now ¯\(°_o)/¯ However, some smoked brisket sure sounds a whole hell of a lot better than leftover thai food!

If you can't find a single replacement you could likely sell a set of 4+ 1spare to someone running dual webers and pick up a set of 6 that match.

I'd vote yes on the spoiler (you can always stick it on with some double sided tape to see how you feel about it if the mounting holes were filled during the paint process. My vote is for mirrors would be Nissan fender mirrors. It would definitely give your Z a classic look.

Happened again at 8:44pm PST today (10-25-11) Not sure if any of this information is useful or not, so I'll keep posting unless it isn't? It's probably worthless if it's available in the "server error log".

Look into upgrading to MSII before upgrading your turbo. Some are able to "band-aid" the stock EFI for moderate boost levels with RRFPR's and tewaks to the AFM, but a stand-alone EMS will allow you to have full control over fuel and spark to get the ost out of every set-up you run. Holset turbos as OEM parts from turbodiesel pickups seem popular. A stock turbo with an aftermarket EMS with bigger injectors and a good intercooler will let you push the stock turbo to boost levels far above it's efficiency level. The stock exhaust manifold doesn't become a reasonable source of restriction until 400hp. Aftermarket manifolds sell in the 4 digit price range. Take a look here, here, and here. I haven't ever owned a turbo Z, and this quick answer came from those three links. They are your friend! Read read read!

I don't know your budget, but I have a stroker bottom end available. It's built on a new vo7 crank, crower forged rods, Ross forged flat top pistons (dual valve relief and 89mm bore), total seal rings, clevite rings, and ARP hardware. I'm willing to work with you on shipping if you're interested.

As far as I know, you can't run the enter caps that come with the wheels. Search this thread for a conclusive answer to see if someone came up with a solution, but last I knew there wasn't one.

Looks like he's running the rota RB-R's from the group buy.

Looking good! Keep it up

From my research (reading lots and talking to a few people) it seems like the bosch 044 is the way to go. It isn't stupid expensive at ~$200, it outflows the walbro by a decent amount, it's quieter, and much more reliable. From this point, I think I'll be finalizing my design around the 044 pumps, unless someone points out a major glaring reason that I shouldn't. I'm looking forward to seeing how your install goes Jake

Bonk, Makes sense as to why you would go with the R33 pump if you still had all of the stock fuel pieces in place. Any reason you'd pick the bosch over the walbro? -Ryan

Bonk, Thanks for posting pics of your install! It's a really good visual for those who haven't seen the inside of the tank before, and really takes a lot of the mystery out of the conversion. I've got a design worked out for an entire kit, and just have a few refining questions to iron out a few details, with the main one being, which fuel pump are you guys running? Walboro 255's and Bosch 044's seem to be favorites, but I want to be sure since the kit is based around the pump If you could check out my thread in the Vendor's forum, here, that would be great! Scott, With an in-tank pump in the s30 chassis, I don't know of any way to have access to the pump without dropping the tank, short of cutting an access hole (slightly bigger than the top plate) in the hatch floor. The good news is that dropping the tank is pretty easy if the pump needs servicing. I do agree that not having to would be easiest though. As for baffling, my kit won't require splitting the tank for installation. The baffles and the pump are all housed in the same assembly that drops right into the tank and is securely mounted to the tank itself (not held in place by the fuel lines).

Thanks for sharing. I thought it was an enjoyable read

I didn't see this before, but I want to make sure that people don't read this without knowing that it is 100% completely incorrect. Cutting a spring will give a shorter spring with the same rate as the spring that it was cut from (assuming linear and not progressive springs). Here's a little educational reading on spring rates for anyone that is interested. http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hooke's_law

Hey Dan, Just wanted to let you know I've been getting this message quite frequently as of late, usually between 11pm and 2am PST. I'm browsing in google chrome on a PC if it makes any difference.

I would not feel comfortable running those engine mounts. There needs to be some triangulation to support the engine vertically. Your welds don't provide significant strength in that direction. If you had rotated your flat stock 90* it might be acceptable. Try grinding the mill scale off of your steel and follow the table on the inside of your welder to get your machine in the ballpark for heat and wire speed settings. Then practice on some spare stock to get everything fine tuned before making your final welds on your mounts. With a little more practice you'll be there in no time

As for cleaning, I'd recommend POR's marine clean. It made quick work of the junk in my tank and left it looking spotless. It doesn't break the bank either and is usually available locally. I'm planning on doing something similar to RTz for my install and will make my own ring/plate on my buddy's torchmate. If you guys are looking for something of the same let me know and I'll get back to you with a price and time estimate. Here's what RTz came up with.

Absolutely love these wheels! What size tires are you running? What's your current suspension set-up?

Have you considered having a set powder coated?

I did all of the urethane bushings on my car too, and I would say that they are on par with the spindle pins as far as PITA level goes. I took my control arms to two different machine shops, and neither one of them would touch the job. An oxy-acetylene torch and the blade of a hacksaw became my best friends that weekend!

What's your budget? For a car that sees the majority of street duty most will be happy with stock brakes up front and maxima discs in the rear with pads of your choice. For suspension, tokico lowering springs and illuminas with a CLSD and CV axles. Fresh bushings and suspension consumables are always a good idea too as a general suspension refresh if your car needs it. I was brutally honest with myself when I did my suspension, and made sure to keep it in line with my goals for the car, 90% street, 10% non-competitive autoX. I personally have poly bushings and new oem ball joints/tie rods since all of my stock ones were trash. I have a z31 LSD to compliment tokico 280z lowering springs that I modified (as per FAQ guidelines) with illuminas up front and koni reds in the rear. Brakes left me with vented toyota 4 pistons up front, but only because I got a great deal (ie. cheaper than reman stock calipers+rotors+pads) on them with a 15/16 MC. They are more brake than my car will ever need! Rear brakes will be maxima discs. I considered going with camber plates and coilovers, and probably will some day, but my current setup will keep me happy for awhile to come, and was fairly inexpensive in comparison.