cockerstar

Megasquirt, Wolf, SDS, and Haltech are all good options. You'll see most people going with Megasquirt here because of cost, although setting it up can be more difficult, from what I understand.

This does seem like a pretty reasonable middle ground if it was held to the other standards of the forum. I do enjoy reading the builds for some of the solutions they need to come up with when slamming cars, but I'm not sure how it fits in with the rest of the site. A new sub-forum or section in the build threads seems like a pretty easy solution. Stance isn't my cup of tea, but I don't mind looking at it when I can see the build story behind it. When it all comes down to it, this place is about what Dan wants to see put up

Much <3 for Wiki D! (but not at all in the sense that you feel towards the sheep...) If it makes you feel any better, I definitely had to search to find out what Cold Ethyl is. I didn't dare ask to be spoon fed my answers

I feel like necro-posting should be encouraged here... The only way he found this thread to comment in was by searching! Plus, Leon was able to give him some direction on the difference in power ratings and Nathan (SleeperZ) were able to speak about the implications of making an l24 stroker. Necroposting is a good thing here! When I was new years ago, people were patient enough to answer some of my questions and and point me in the right direction. I was wholly uneducated about cars when I came here, and now my Z is on a rotisserie getting way too much of a restoration and I'm selling and developing a few different products in the vendors forum! I'd like to think that I'm pretty knowledgeable about Zs and fabrication/modification now. It was the attitude of the few who took the time to be welcoming and point me in the right direction that really made a huge impact, and for that I'm thankful.

I haven't heard anything, but you could try dropping him an email at buick_36@yahoo.com The shop's number is (602) 258-3219. http://bandmzcars.com/torqueplate.html

I know Bryan (1 fast z) has a torque plate. Maybe he would be willing to rent it out? http://bandmzcars.com/

Define "exotic sounding" by giving us an example. If you want to kill drone (and some of the raspy note) place a resonator as close to the merge collector as possible.

I would confirm your positive battery connection.

I didn't see your specific combo, but a lot of stretch pics are in this library at tyrestretch.com I'm not sure how significant the wheel diameter is when comparing tires (ie. 225/50/15 vs 225/50/17) if the width is the same. It would follow that the sidewall height (and resulting deflection) would be the same, but with a larger total diameter on a larger wheel, yes? Here's the tallest 225 I saw on a 10" wide wheel (225/45/17):

I have a 3.9 R200 here for $100 + shipping/PayPal

I didn't realize there were about 4 of us college students in the Seattle area with a passion for Zs! Bellevue, Mukilteo, Seattle, and Tacoma Sounds like we should get together for a few beers, shop BS, and ranting about school... seattlejester, it really looks like things are coming along! I desperately wish I had access to my shop over here on this side of the state!

You sir got very lucky! I've had them run the entire gammet. Some have been easier than that, and others couldn't be removed with a 20 ton hydraulic press after I got fed up with conventional methods and took it down to the machine shop to pay to have it done. I eventually got it out with a combination of penetrating oil, assorted drills, a rosebud tip on an oxy/acetylene torch, and an air hammer with lots of time and cursing. After that experience every set of spindle pins I have installed gets an extremely liberal slathering of anti-seize!

Philchan, If you do get the car I have a 4 speed in Kennewick that you can have if you come pick it up while I'm home from school over winter break. Merry Christmas Eveything Seattlejester said about rust is spot on. PM Challenger on here. He is from spokane (not sure if he is in town, I think he might be doing an internship in the Seattle area right now), and may be able to advise you on the specifics of the car. Looking at it on craigslist, it could be a pretty decent pick! Rust is your #1 enemy!

You can always use multiple felpro gaskets stacked. I don't remember all of the details on the process, but I remember something about using copper spray between them. A quick search will bring it up I'm sure. Then again, the member doing this was also using emery cloth to bring down the thickness of the piston crown. He did have a motor with a serious kick-ass reputation though. I wish I could remember his screen name! Then again, it isn't a widespread solution, so I'm sure there is some sort of implication with the method.

PM sent

I'd also be interested in some if this gets going again

There is no adjustment knob. Adjusting is achieved by compressing the shock and rotating it.

John's FAQ is to get a stock ride height on a 240z using the linear Tokico 280z springs. KTM was shooting for a slightly lower than stock ride height. I also cut my springs slightly more (1/2 coil) than John's FAQ. Actually installing the springs and measuring before cutting to determine the drop is definitely the right way to go about doing this!

Send Kinser a PM and see if he still has his for sale! http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/102439-in-l28-round-port-header/page__p__958687__fromsearch__1#entry958687

PM sent on 133mm rods

Looking great John I'm watching eagerly as this one comes together!

Here's my understanding from reading here: 1. Differential input flange. 2. These are stub axles, they can be snap/clip in or bolt in. 3. Companion flanges are a two piece system that hold the wheel bearings in the rear hubs. The 280z units have more splines and are stronger than the 240z ones. They are completely interchangeable. 4. I have understood this to be part of the "companion flanges" sets, although they re frequently referred to as stub axles. They technically are a type of stub/short axle, so this name is appropriate. However, it's confusing since the stub axles that go into the diff are also referred to as "stub axles". I'd appreciate it if someone can chime in and comment here. There's a lot of different names floating around for these parts since there are multiple names that are appropriate for them. If I remember correctly, the naming terminology from the FSM is ambiguous as well.

Mind sharing your asking/selling price? You definitely built an awesome ride man!

You need a bearing that can handle forces both horizontally and vertically. That bearing is only designed to provide support in one direction.

Definitely interested! I know that from the other threads on the RK-R there has been a number of people that have expressed interest and emailed Kim about it as well. The more interest we can show, the better!