cockerstar

"... I'm also going to be running about -2 degrees of rear camber, by means of adjustable LCA's..." Why not by camber plates?

Sorry to hear it man Any damage to the car?

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It's value depends entirely on it's condition and what work has been done to it before.

I haven't ever heard of one. You should be able to layer the sections of the MLS head gaskets to get up to 3mm though. Talk to Brian at www.zccjdm.com and he might be able to help you out with which thicknesses you'll need to order to get the necessary combination of inside/outside layers. What's the application that requires a 3mm HG?

Can you resize the pics you've attached? They're so big that I can't see a thing on a 17" screen. Mild port work will give you more power, and the stock ECU is supposed to be able to handle it to an extent. However, it is NOT going to be a big bang for your buck in an improvement. The stock ECU doesn't play well with aftermarket cams. From what I know about California emissions testing (which isn't much, so I hope someone else is going to chime in here too) is that if you keep it under control and pass the sniffer test, things are a-okay and CHP doesn't really care if you put in an aftermarket ECU. With that being said, you could swap over to megasquirt and get it running on the stock engine as-is. There's improvements to be made over the stock system in both power and fuel efficiency. You could then swap in a head with some mild port work, a decent cam, and a header, and be able to fuel and support it all. In short, swapping on a ported head while keeping "stock injectors, cam and ECU" might work to an extent, but your power gains won't be much, and the amount of money invested for the gain will be wildly inefficient. Upgrading the head is a higher-level improvement, while a header/exhaust and an intake is more of a first step. Make sense?

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I powdercoat and fabricate for a living, and you're wrong. Powdercoating is significantly thicker than most paints, and will last for many years on a pulley if properly applied.

I don't know exactly how deep the spare tire well it, but you might be able to run 2-4 5lb bottles in parallel there.

Looks like a monster in the making! I've always wondered why we haven't seen a build of this engine with their popularity. Any plans for a tranny tunnel? With the mount it looks like you're planning to run it inside?

You know you own a Datsun after you've done the spindle pins!

Try cutting the tubes a few inches down from the gland nut threads. It makes it a lot easier to grind down the inside of the weld if you need to to fit the strut in. I don't think it's a problem with the blues, but it can be if you're using other types of struts that fit more snugly. Also, try clamping the two halves of the housing in a piece of angle iron with an old insert placed through them to keep everything nice and in-line while tack welding it all up. Do not weld more than tack welds with an insert in the housing. After sectioning a few sets for customers I really prefer using a tubing cutter to make my cuts. It's just more precise than a chop saw. The cut doesn't need to be perpendicular as long as both cut edges are parallel, but it takes out one less step if you don't have to worry about keeping the two halves aligned rotationally.

John is right on the money. Mock it up on a spare set of strut tubes and break out the calipers. It isn't rocket science to draw up something to have made at the machine shop, just a little R&D. Once you get it right order a quantity from where you had the prototypes made and sell them here to recoup your costs. I'm sure some people will buy them purely for the fact that they say "NISSAN" on the side. There's been plenty of interest for a kit in the past.

I think that rejracer gave some pretty solid advice. Having a successful build all comes down to getting some goals and a realistic budget before anything starts. Flattops with a p79/p90, triple 40's, a cam, an electronic ignition, a lightened flywheel, and a header/exhaust will make for a fun street car without breaking the bank. The n42 can be used as well if you keep the compression down. Keep the compression reasonable and the redline under 7k rpms, and you'll have a fun little engine that will play nice on pump gas and be dead reliable! Read these threads if you haven't already: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/62691-l6-heads-pics-and-descriptions/ http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/53209-f54-block-what-are-my-head-options/ http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/41597-l-series-dimensions-stroke-bore-chamber-ccs-etc/

Might want to consider putting "240z" and "280z" in your listing's title, as a lot of people looking for a Z will only search for those two and not "260z". Here's a link to the auction.

Look at the head casting number on the passenger's side of the head. Should be a letter followed by two numbers, ie. e31, e88, n42, p79, p90, etc. All of the heads from 71-83 USDM Z cars will bolt on to any of the blocks, so it's possible that you have a head other than what originally came on the car (e88). When ordering a head gasket it is matched to the head so all of the coolant ports line up. I don't know how bad the misalignment can be for all of the mismatches, so it's possible that this is the case, or it could just be a poor fitting gasket. I do know that some of the mismatches between heads and headgaskets completely covers some of the coolant ports.

Which head do you have, and what year did you order the gasket for?

What's she make at 21 psi? Sounds killer!

I have the same one sitting on my desk

Sounds like a first to be done in a Z

Thanks to Mr. K indeed! The whole thing is pretty awesome from everyone.

Check the FSM (free online) or your haynes manual.

I've had my eye on the BRZ for a bit now, but didn't realize that they were teaming with Toyota to make it! I would love to see a turbo version pushing around 10 psi for 250hp for a quick DD. Definitely going to be on my radar (an possibly in my driveway!) within the next 5ish years.

I'd be down for one if they are printed on a high quality shirt (please, no Haynes tag less or something of the like.) I'm happy to pay more for a better quality, something like American appeal. As for the design, I like the classic logo with the Z outline on the home page. Actual pics tend to not print well.