cockerstar

Is it already modified and ready to bolt up to an L-series? If so I'd offer around $250(maybe lower, since he wants to bargain) and not go over $275-300 for it depending on proof of condition. It's been awhile since I've looked at everything that needs to be done, but iirc, you could pick the trans up for $150-200 and have it modified for less than a hundred at a machine shop.

Thanks

I know I posted a similar ad up a few months ago and got several replies asking about it. It looks like the same engine is back up for sale? I'm aware of the craigslist section in the WTB, but thought this would get more appropriate views here. Mods, do as you wish with it This isn't mine, and I'm not affiliated with the seller. Just thought I would pass it along to you guys. Please contact him directly. http://kpr.craigslist.org/pts/1746050017.html

FWIW, tirerack has them for $139/wheel

Here's what sits next to my Z in the garage every night: It's my father's project, even though I do all of the work on it. I would not recommend going with drop spindles when you do the suspension - it makes a lot of stuff a PITA. Go with 1" drop springs and call it a day. I'll let you guess what route the PO went with when he got to make the decision I love the sound of the cam'd 350 (not that you can't do that with your Zs), and the looks of the car. It seems like a lot more people can identify it and you definitely get a lot of looks driving down the street. As for the drivability, I can't really comment yet, as I'm not done with getting it to a level of reliability that borders on DDable yet Personally, I don't think I'd want to give up my Z, but it's definitely an iconic car that's a blast to work on.

What's the condition of your clutch and how much power/torque are you putting down? Could explain the chatter if it only happens on take off in first. Does it slip at all? Blowing blue smoke under high loads could be a sign of ring wear. Get a wet/dry compression test and post the results here. A leaskdown test would also be good to rule out valve stem-seals. Also, a check on your oil for coolant could point to the head gasket being less likely, but a leakdown test will be better. The shop that did the swap should be more than able to to the compression test and the leakdown test. You can easily do them yourself as well if you get the correct gauges. compression tester: http://www.harborfreight.com/flex-drive-compression-tester-92697.html leak down tester: http://www.harborfreight.com/cylinder-leak-down-tester-94190.html They're harbor freight, but they'll get the job done since we're looking at the consistency in the measured values and not the values themselves. Hope this helps, Ryan

Thanks for the feedback and links Grumpy! They'll really come in handy when I'm trying to explain why backpressure is not your friend. Everyone around me seems to think that "you need to have a little backpressure on the valves to flow well" and are pretty set in their ways of thinking I have another one for you. I like this stainless system on summit except for the unknown mufflers in it. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PYE-SGF63R/?rtype=10 I would love to be able to add the rear pipes that come out of the mufflers and over the rear axle to the system I have pieced together above, but don't know where I can buy just those two pre-bent pieces. Do you know of a source? Thanks again! -Ryan

Can you describe your rear brakes "dragging" in some more detail? Do they always drag, even when not braking, or do they lock up before the fronts do while braking?

So, when do we get to see the video?

PM sent

Grumpy, what's your opinion on this exhaust? http://www.jegs.com/i/Hooker-Headers/520/2131-1K4/10002/-1?parentProductId=759933#moreDetails I already have a set of long tubes and was planning on replicating it with a set of flowmaster super 44's. Will be going on a '69 camaro that's running 2" drop spindles, so ground clearance is a concern. Engine is a 355 with a set of 202/160 iron heads with a mild port and polish. Cam is an elgin .463/.485 lift 290/300 advertised duration on a 107/117 lsa. Intake is an edelbrock 1407 (750cfm, vacuum secondaries) on a performer intake (looking to pick up an air gap in the future). I've pieced everything together at $385 through all of the individual pieces on jegs, so I'm looking in the sub-$400 range. Any tips on what I should be looking for with a well designed system? Thanks, Ryan

Hey guys, This isn't for my Z, but I figured that a fabrication thread with some decent pictures is enjoyable so I though I would share none-the-less. The driver's side header on my old man's '69 camaro was constantly scraping over the smallest of bumps ever since the 2" drop spindles were installed, so my friend and I decided to remedy the problem. Here's what we came up with, and a few pics of the process I'll admit, there are some gaps between what we did along the way. I got a bit caught up in the work, but remembered to grab the camera every once in awhile! Here's what we were looking at for ground clearance before: Driver's: Passenger's: 1. The passenger's side is decent and only scrapes over large bumps, so we decided to only modify the driver's side for now. Clearance came out to be right around 2.25", and the frame rail sits right at 3.5", leaving us a goal of removing 1.25 vertical inches from the header. Header clearance: Frame rail: 2. Started out by cutting all of the primaries in half, while removing the #1 primary to aid in welding. Tacked the #5 primary together and dropped it in to test fitment. 3. I was pleased with how it turned out, so the tacks on #5 were welded solid and then ground down, and then we started the process of heating and bending to get the other primaries to fit as they should. (I'm in the green, and my friend Colby has the torch, just in case you're wondering who is who.) 4. After #3 was fitting as it should it was welded solid and ground flush we well. Here you can see us working on the fitment for #7. 5. I missed the #1 primary, but it took a very minor amount of cutting, and dimpling in one place to clear everything and sit flush. The collector flange was pretty messed up from scraping so much, so we decided to chop the tube and replace it with a spare Colby had laying around in the shop from his truck. 6. We groud down that weld both inside and out, since we could get to it, and here they are done and waiting to get sand blasted. I'll get some pics of the new clearances and everything installed as soon as I can. I'm off at school again, so I don't have immediate access to the car. The purple hornies that are on there have to go, and we're considering replacing it with something like this, but with super 44 mufflers and the headers are on there now. http://www.jegs.com/i/Hooker-Headers/520/2131-1K4/10002/-1?parentProductId=759933#moreDetails You guys have any suggestions for the exhaust that won't break the bank (under $400)? I priced the above system out for $385 with free shipping from Jegs without the headers.

I'll check on the set of drums I pulled off and shoot you a PM later tonight or tomorrow

I'll pull the hub off of one of my other cars and give things a look to see if the same kind of wear is present or not and go from there.

Thanks for the tip Robert! Never knew that loctite made suck a product. It may come in handy later, but if these are toast I think I'll probably just grab another set John, the grease seal area is where I was able to measure the amount of wear (since it is completely round), but the spot I was trying to get to show up in the picture was right after where the castle nut threads on, before the spindle begins to taper out. This area is also worn in a similar manner as where the grease seal sits.

Hey guys, I pulled some strut housings from one of my parts cars to cut up for Dan's coilover adapters and noticed some wear on the bottom of the spindles. I tried to catch it in a picture, but it wasn't cooperating very well. It is a significantly shinier portion of the spindle on the bottom side in several places. I measured it, and it only varies by 2 thousandsths in diameter between the widest diameter of the spindle, and the worn skinniest portion (1.690" vs. 1.692"), so I don't think that it is worn excessively out of round. However, I am concerned that this wear will accelerate and cause problems down the road for me, but I'm not sure. I did a search, but everything containing the phrase "spindle" seemed to relate to the tale of the wicked spindle pins. So, am I just being paranoid and this is a normal condition, or should I junk these and pull one of my other sets? Thanks! -Ryan Here's my best attempt at a pic for reference:

PM'd

Pair it with some illuminas in shortened struts, add some bump-steer spacers (roll center adjusters) and you should be good to go!

Assuming you're only after the note of the exhaust I'd start out by searching through the exhaust section and on youtube to find what set-up you really like the sound of the most. Some people hate the raspiness of the l6, while others love it. Your level of ability and the budget you have to work with are going to be what dictates which route you take. Personally, I'd suggest adding a cam along with your exhaust to get the best sound as well as improved performance, but since the stock efi doesn't play well with a new cam that would mean converting to a stand-alone system or carbs. Search on youtube for exhaust clips of triple weber set-ups, but don't blame me when you realize just how much that note will run you To stick with a completely stock engine I would follow the route BluDestiny's friend took with the 6-1 header from MSA (www.motorsportauto.com), but finish it off with a set of twice pipes. In the end, it all comes down to which sound you're after the most and how much you're willing to spend to get it. Hope this helps, Ryan

With it being Sunday I'd assume it will post to your account on Monday. I had this issue happen several times before, but it has always resolved itself in the past. It's made me consider getting their debit card so I can use my accounts as I please

Also, the hydraulic units are NLA, so they must be overhauled even though they were not intended to be a rebuildable part. Essentially, you have to clean them and hope for the best. If that doesn't work you're stuck looking for a set of used ones you'll have to do the same to.

The bad dog two part frame rails are a good start http://www.baddogparts.com/

The biggest difference is that the MSA kit uses bolt in camber "plates" (look to be the EMI version) and the camber plates from TTT are weld in units. The TTT plates are $180 per pair, meaning you need two sets ($360 for camber bringing the total cost to $789) if you want camber control via plates in the rear. Also, the MSA kits use the two locking nuts on their threaded collars, and the TTT units use the single nuts that clamps, although there isn't really a functionality difference there. Ground Control uses Ebiach in their kits, and it looks like the TTT units are the same as the GC units, so there really is no difference there. In short, the TTT units are about $180 cheaper, but you'll have to cut your shock towers and do some welding to complete the install which means that there really isn't any going back to stock after that, which to some is a big deal. To others it isn't. I know I'll cutting mine for Dan's kit! Another option would be to run without camber adjustment using modified stock insulators. Hope this helps, Ryan

Just in case anyone was wondering: http://www.sonicmotor.com/Default.asp?Redirected=Y I'm definitely interested in trying out their "GS" Bride knockoffs, but it'll be awhile before I'm to that point in my build. If anyone does decide to pick up a set of any of their seats, I'm sure some pics and a quality analysis would be appreciated from many of us onlookers!

Aluminum material costs are higher than steel, but the time needed to machine the piece is significantly less, which has a large impact on cost. For this reason, making billet aluminum pieces is generally cheaper than billet steel ones. Do as search, as this was done within the past 12-18 months, iirc. I remember seeing the the for sale thread over in the b/s/t if you want to get an idea on pricing.