cockerstar

My vote would also go towards a turbo diesel 4 banger! I've always wanted to see one done as a swap for a DD, and I'm assuming that you would be able to get some pretty great mileage if you did a little bit of areo modding as well.

Our manifolds are made of cast steel and not cast iron, so MIG welding on them is fairly straight forward. A proper preheat will help with penetration. I know BigPhill welded his adapter on without issue, but he wasn't happy with the performance on his higher boost application, iirc.

I would like to second this notion

More Aziza: Synthk: unknown:

Didn't think I would be the one to do it A trip to get some pictures from the sticky turned into an hour and a half epic thread re-read!

I was assuming he meant he bought the carfax?

Those prices can't be right O.o The cheapest is an s130 @ ~$780,000?

That's something I was afraid would be an issue, nut if it comes down to it I can run them how you have pictured. Unfortunately, almost all of my Z stuff if across the state so I don't even have a stock intake manifold to look at for reference. Do you have the spacing on the intake ports on the head, as well as the stock, unported diameter? If the info proves to be hard to find I can always go pick up an intake/exhaust gasket Right now it looks like I'm working with 46mm diameter throttles with a minimum of 36mm between openings. That puts centers 59mm apart when they're bolted together and all of the throttle linkages work like stock, so I'm guessing that I'm either going to have to make that 36mm gap less, or space them out a little bit.

Carfax will only work on a 17 digit VIN that's 1981 or newer

I'm planning on an uneven spacing as seen in the lonewolf intakes. Sunbelt also followed this general design. lonewolf: sunbelt: I'm thinking this will offer the best atomization as well as a 'straight shot' into each cylinder. I'm assuming this will come at the penalty of trying to maximizer the evenness in flow between the cylinders because of the asymmetrical design between each runner. I'm hoping to remedy this with the flow diverters as seen in design #2 To achieve the spacing I was planning on simply using some aluminum tubing with the same id ad the space for the threaded rods that connect all of the ITBs together. I would need to alternate the throttles due to the bolt spacing in all of them being parallel. In the traditional triples configuration the bolt holes slant inward to make a " /" shape. I guess I could weld them shut and drill new mounting holes in the flange, but I would rather retain them how they are since I'm making a whole manifold. Here's a pic for reference:

olie05, Nathan hit it right on the head. They're from a wave runner that Adam (S130Z) was able to get through a recall at his work. Apparently there was concern that they may corrode of used extensively, so after I agreed to not drive my Z into the ocean Adam was willing to sell them to me As you can see in the pictures, they unbolt from each other which will really help in spacing them however I want to (for a straight shot down each runner). I'm not sure what the standard triple carb manifold bolt spacing is, but I can measure the mounting holes on the flange this afternoon. I do know that every other one would have to be flipped, alternating the opening direction of the butterfly, so even if they do bolt up it would be interesting to get the throttle linkage worked out!

you're a sneaky spammer!

I've been wanting to make a custom intake manifold (along with a tubular exhaust manifold/header, but that's another thread!) for my turbo swap this summer. I acquired some 46mm mikuni ITBs from S130Z awhile ago, and now that I have them here in front of me up at school I'm working on the design. Here are a few pics of what I have to work with: My basic shape has been a hybrid of a few different designs I've seen (Monzter, PrOxLaMuS, Kaihai, a few Japanese manifolds I don't know the origins of, stock rb25dett, etc.). I've tried to pick out the best aspects from each design, and add them into mine. To me, it seems like the easiest method of distributing airflow to all of the cylinders equally is to have the inlet on the side of the plenum (think rb25 manifold) rather than at the front like a stock l-series is placed. MONZTER has obviously shown us that this is quite possible, but I'm attracted to routing the intake over the valve cover. Not only does this give a "straight" shot at the runners, but it also minimizes intake piping clutter from the intercooler. All of my drawings are nowhere near to scale, and only intended to convey the concept of shape! Sorry in advance for the sub-par MS Paint 'renderings' Here is a surge tank for a set of triple webers that comes over the top with two different intake ports: Please let me know if you know where whose this is so I can give credit! Here is a honda intake that I am really fond of. It was originally posted up by mootori: I've been doing a lot of reading on intake manifold theory online, both here on hybridZ and through google, and I have some clarifying questions as well as my preliminary thoughts and drawings to share. 1) Through my reading on here, for some reason I remember the "ideal" volume for an intake manifold being 1.5 times the effective displacement (including 'displacement' added by boost) of the engine, but in reading online, I've found articles claiming that 50-60% and 50-70% is the "ideal". - Which of these numbers is accurate? - Where is the volume measured? Just the plenum itself, or the plenum and the runners? I'm assuming this is just the plenum, as there are separate calculations for both runner length and diameter (and subsequently runner volume). 2) Would my intake design be better off with the triangulated inlet into a plenum that breaks into runners as seen in the honda intake (Design #1), or would it be better to have an inlet with a constant thickness that fed straight into runners via velocity stacks(design #2)? In the latter of the two I would incorporate some kind of flow diverters to maximize even distribution. Design #3 is a direct hybridization of the first two manifold examples I posted in the thread. Is retains the diverters of #2 Design 1: Design 2: Design 3: 3) Would it be more logical to place the ITBs before (location A) or after (location the bend in the runners? Intuatively, I am leaning towards location A, but I am unsure as to how this will effect fuel atomization with the injectors spraying directly into a 180 degree bend. I guess it would also be an option to place weld in injector bungs in location B, and keep the ITBs in location A. 4) How does the 180 degree bend effect calculating runner length? I plan on trying to do some acoustic tuning of the runners with some of the online calculators even though the manifold is supposed to be under boost most of the time. As for runner diameter I plan on listening to what RTz had to say in PrOxLaMuS's design thread Here are a few goals: - maximize throttle response - lower boost threshold - ~300hp out of my l24 before I blow it up and move everything over to an l28. Everything will be designed with an l28 @ 15-18psi, but I have a fresh engine that is begging for some boost, even if it has 15% less displacement. The 300whp out of an l24 translates to around 355 out of an l28. Any input I can get from you guys would be fantastic! I know there are a ton of amazingly smart people on these boards, and I'm constantly impressed by what gets contributed Feel free to share any ideas/thoughts/pictures you may have! Also, any suggested reading on the topic is greatly appreciated! -Ryan

A 300zx 5 lug swap

FWIW, I just put a .463/.485 290/300 cam in my old man's 69 camaro, and although it could benefit from one, it doesn't need a higher stall speed on the torque converter to run. It idles in gear at a stand still just fine Running a 355 SBC in front of a th350 with a B&M shift kit.

What am I missing here? One extra m and a lack of an apostrophe. Let's cut some slack here! Very nice results! Looks like a solid budget build that can serve to show what can be done relatively cheaply without removing the head! Is this at 17psi as in your sig? Any more specifics on the turbo?

Check out some of the aftermarket stroking kits. Iirc, the Kameari kit has a slightly longer stroke with their crank.

How about a piece of old tire?

With a flat-top n42 block and a MN47 head, you're pushing close to 11:1 comression with a 39cc combustion chamber, which is really pushing the envelope on pump gas in an l series engine. [small](You could drop this with a thick head gasket, but then you're losing quenceh and that's an entirely different discussion.)[/small] The 94 octane you get in Canada isn't the same as 94 octane here in the US (RON measurements vs. AKI measurements. 95 octane in Canada = 91-92 octane in the US), so you're really looking at the same gas we have available here. The l series engine is a relatively hyper-sensitive one when compared to other engines, and I know the mn47 head on pump gas is a pretty widely debated topic. From my reading, I've gathered that the general consensus us that you won't be able to run full advance on pump gas and get the most potential out of your combo. You might want to do some very detailed research about how low you can get your dynamic compression ratio with a monster cam, but that would defeat your goal of primarily driving on the street. My opinion (which should be taken with a large grain of salt, as it's purely from reading here, and not from first-hand experience) is that you'll be able to make more power with a lower compression ratio that you can run a full ignition advance on before you get into detonation. Look into what people have been doing with an E31 or E88 head with their slightly larger 42cc combustion chambers.

Looks like you just modeled my ideal body modifications on a z! zg flares, BRE chin spoiler, and a BRE style rear spoiler, although I'm considering the sparrow-tail and the teller 5" duckbill Very nice work!

If money isn't a motivator, there isn't anything wrong with storing all of your spare parts inside of her, putting her in the garage up on some jackstands, and keeping the project under a cover for awhile

PM'd as well

I'd go take high quality pics if I was at home!

No pictures, but found a local (where I live, not where I go to school) 79zx for $20,000. Apparently has been in storage ever since it came off of the showroom floor and has less than 2500 miles on it. http://kpr.craigslist.org/pts/1549487482.html I know no one would be interested here, but I think it's interesting none-the-less

When swapping an RB engine, an RB25 rwd transmission is most commonly utilized with a custom driveshaft.