cockerstar

Which gun are you using? I hope to pick one up and get my blasting cabinet operational this summer

Metal spikes?

Make a post and I'll see what I have

Your first step should be to address the vacuum leaks you have and get a compression/leakdown test. I've had success with cheap harbor freight testers in the past. You're looking for consistency in cylinder pressures and not necessarily the pressure itself. Knowing the compression and leakdown on an engine will really tell you quite a bit about it's overall condition. Is the car completely stock? I have a suspicion that your lack of power can be fixed through addressing maintenance issues that have been neglected in the past and getting everything in proper working condition. Then again, seafoam isn't likely to hurt anything, and it's a good product for sure! Just not a miracle in a can

The rear ends are also made by the same company, Fuji Heavy Industries, just as a tidbit of information to know. A great option for your middle of the run boosted L on the street, an organic stock style disk with a heavier pressure plate is the way to go for drivability while being able to hold the power when you need to do things on the cheap. Can be done with a 225mm clutch without issue, so you might only need to pay shipping on a pressure plate and retain a stock flywheel if you want. Not saying it's the best performance option, but it's viable if you're needing to hold the power on a budget.

Thanks for the information Bob! Hopefully the one I found locally is non-t5. I know where to find the correct part if it's wrong

Ahhhh, yes. Kevin is right! I'm looking for the square flange on the diff itself to replace the round z31 unit - where the driveshaft meets with the diff.

Just like the title says, I'm looking for the input flange from an r200 from a 280z. I'm looking to replace the round one on my z31 diff so I can retain my stock driveshaft Also looking for the side seals and a nissan brand rear seal if you happen to have ones that you didn't end up using, but that's a long shot. PM or post me with pics and asking price including shipping to 98447 Thanks, Ryan

Send Marc a PM. His screen name on here is Wagz, and he has what you're looking for

What you're looking for are called stub axles. I've never been 100% straight on what a companion flange actually is, but what you need there is most definitely a stub axle. I just had to buy a set for my r200 swap

Looks more like he photoshopped it on there

What symptoms do you have making you feel that you need to tear the entire engine down for a rebuild? As for my experience with Sea Foam, it cleaned things up (1 bottle in a full tank of gas, 1/2 bottle in the crankcase right before changing the oil, 1/2 bottle to the intake through a vacuum line), but I didn't notice a difference in the way the car ran, or in my mileage. This was likely due to my engine not really needing it

How much did that run you Drax? ~$45/fifth? I'm in the same boat as Jason here, and have recently wanted to start trying some nicer drinks and am open to recommendations for a first time scotch drinker.

I know it's a bit of a drive, but check out the FG hood that's in the b/s/t right now. Very good price on it, and it looks to be in good shape! I don't think you can beat it for $250

As in this cluster? I personally think it's very 1980's and ugly, but to each his own! If I was going to be doing a custom dash/gauge cluster it would be something very modern. Maybe integrate the corvette HUD?

Couldn't have said it better myself! Just for those who don't know, in the current music scene, Miley Cyrus is known for being a godess to all 14 year old girls.

16 gauge should be fine.

The factory long block is good to the 18psi range from what I've seen with good tuning. Some have run upwards of 25psi of boost on them, but at that level any flaw in your tuning is going to make itself obvious really quickly in the form of a big boom! With that said, your goals of 250hp should be easily attainable within your budget, and aftermarket internals are not necessary I would be looking for a junkyard long block (or an entire zxt parts car/pull-out) to freshen up. ie. new gasket set with a new head gasket, new water pump, new oil pump, new timing set, and a quick repaint to make everything look nice. Valve stem seals and a valve job for the head - would also be a good time for a new bumpstick if you so chose! Grab some of the nicer quality knock off stuff from eBay to work with (BOV, intercooler) Look around to see what people have had success with and what they haven't. For the turbo I would look at running an hy or other holset from a dodge turbo diesel, or a garrett from a ford turbo diesel. Many members here have had quite a bit of success with the holset stuff in the past. A stock intake with a 60mm throttle body from a 240sx should be plenty and play well with an aftermarket EMS. Fuel would come from a set of 440cc supra injectors (or similar, there are a few options) and a pallnet fuel rail. Control it all with Megasquirt and Spark and you're really looking at a potent combo for a "junkyard l series"! Take a look at what jc058625 has recently done here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=158525 He does have a nicer ball-bearing turbonetics turbo, but his set-up shares a lot with the idea I've suggested above. Hopefully this gets you going in the right direction Then again, this should be putting out more than 225-250 hp...

The pump you had pictured is an in tank pump, and won't work as mounted. The one hose coming out of the top is the outlet house, where the inlet is the white screen.

Anyone have any opinions on the flow differences between the manifolds? It seems like flow distribution is really negated with boost and that any of the designs are going to perform similarly, but at the same time better flow should yield a lower boost threshold, right? That really is my main concern here

Personally, I've always liked one large F/S section on forums, as it keeps things active and always moving. Our B/S/T is pretty timid as it is (relatively speaking, the forums I used to post on would have things off of the front page in under 15 mins!), so I wouldn't want to see anything done to make it slower, but that's just my opinion

I'd like to echo this

My girl likes my Z, and even helps me work on it from time to time, but more often than not she sees it as competition for my attention and has even said I love the car more than I love her. It's never led to any arguments though, likely due to the fact that I'm able to balance my time between the two. She really seems to like that I ask her opinion on aesthetic things like seat options, paint colors, and body modifications. Hey, at this point the girlfriend is cheaper to be around!

The more I'm looking at things, the more I am favoring my second design, simply due to ease of fabrication and production costs. The 180 degree bends in aluminum are $35 each, and needing 6 of them really starts to add up. Being able to avoid that cost would definitely be beneficial on the wallet. Additionally, I would be able to weld on injector bungs directly opposite the velocity stacks to run secondary injectors or as a location to spray water/methanol.