cockerstar

Hopefully you guys get as much of a laugh out of this as I do http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v75/wflasng/vertical_curves_big.jpg Found it on photobucket, so we should be good to go now gentlemen!

Well, fwiw, the block has been thawed out (space heater for two days), and no visible fracture signs were see on the outside of the block. Guess that's one thing I've got in my favor. The freeze plug mention was there just for your entertainment Ron Adding anti-freeze was my plan all along. It just slipped my mind before I left.

About a 17...

The car isn't in the Spokanne area, but it's that side of the state. It's in the tri-cities right now, and yes, it's only had water in it this whole time. That's why I'm hoping for anything but the worst. I'm going to need all the luck I can get! Thanks Daniel! I'll definitely be sure to check the timing cover and the water pump. The heater core and the water passages in the intake were both bypassed. That's what I was assuming. All I had them do was drain the water to keep it from refreezing every night. I'll be home a week from today, so it's just going to be sitting in my garage until then. Where would be the most likely place for the block to fail? I don't know if anything like this has been discussed in detail on here before. I sure couldn't find it if it has. Any water jackets that are particularly thin? I've seen pictures of SBCs that have failed right on the side of the block, but I have no idea where it would be likely on the L series.

Well, first off I would like to admit that I made quite a novice, embarrassing, and inexcusable mistake here... When I got my Z it was in many pieces, being stripped down for a full restore. After a ton of work I had a freshly rebuilt engine dropped in, and a new 5 speed bolted up. Filled the block with oil and water to break the engine in and check for leaks. Everything checked out fine, and after a valve adjustment and some quick carb tuning she was running great. Come September and it became time for me to move across the state for school. Wrapped the Z up nice and tight under it's cover for the winter, but sadly I forgot to drain the water and replace it with anti-freeze. My intention was to only have it in during the break during the hot August weather. The other night, I realized this fact and checked the weather back at home. 4*F. Called home the next morning and sure enough, my lower radiator hose was frozen solid, so I had the Z brought into the garage and all available space heaters pointed at the engine to thaw things out and melt the ice that had formed. After a night of roasting, the plug on the base of the radiator was pulled and all of the water was drained out. Unfortunately, none of the core plugs decided to follow their common misconception and turn into freeze plugs. Now, I am uncertain on how to proceed. I'm expecting the worst for my new engine with less than 2 miles on it, but as always, am hoping for the best. Here's what my reasoning has led me to: 1) Pull dipstick/drain oil to look for water 2) Refill with antifreeze! 3) Turn engine over by hand 4) Compression test 5) Start and bring to operating temp and cycle the thermostat Like I said, I'm all the way across the state from my baby, so I can't look at anything myself here, but at the same time I'm not entirely sure of what questions to ask my friend and brother. My friend is decently car savvy and helped me put the car back together, so he should be able to do whatever I ask. I searched through some threads, but I was only able to find one post on the same topic, and they happened to pop one of the core plugs on the passenger's side of the block. They replaced it and were good to go. What signs should I look for? Is cracking from freezing likely to be seen from the exterior of the block? Does what I've outline above seem like a logical set of steps to follow when checking for damage? Thanks in advance guys, Ryan

I've used a cheap blaster a few times for small parts and it really is quite amazing. It's a larger pot style set up with sand run off of a 60 gallon compressor. Not sure on the brand and price, as it's a friends, but it would definitely be worth $300 to me if I had a compressor big enough to run it off of.

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Any of the set ups will perform well when properly tuned, with triples giving the best performance. The debate to the 4bbl vs the SU's is in the air, although I tend to side on the SU side. There is always the option of the dual downdraft webbers as well. A quick search will turn up a goldmine of info on the subject

I forgot to update my thread on car options, but I ended up picking up a 2006 Volvo s60R. 4 door very nice interior and sound system decent room in the back AWD 15psi of boost stock huge Brembo brakes under $23k, and a higher mileage 2004 can be found for half of that. What's not to like?

Search for r200 conversion/swap and cv conversion/swap. The torque that comes with 400hp is likely going to make short work of your stock u-joints. However, doing it for $500 is going to be tough. Here's a link to the adapters Ross offers to get you started: http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=32_53&products_id=56

I'll have to look for a source for spindle pins, but the kit would also include new bearings and seals. Looks like my kit is essentially the same thing , minus the camber plates. Another option would be offering a set of strut tubes that are sectioned and have the collars welded on, leaving the buyer to provide their own struts and coilovers.

I have a set of Z therapy SU round top carbs if you're interested in trading Depending on when you want to go to coilovers, I may be able to help you out there too. Take a look at my thread in the suspension section.

Just like the title says, I'm gauging interest in a bolt in coilover solution. After doing a little reading, it seems like I'm not the only one who's been preparing to offer something similar The goal is to offer a 100% pre-assembled bolt in coilover that won't break the bank. The kit would be targeted towards those who mostly drive their Z hard on the street, but still take it to the track to see some road racing/drag/auto-x. There's a significant amount of support for coilovers out there, but everything involves cutting and welding, something that we're not all able to do or comfortable doing. Here's the preliminary idea. I want to keep things streetable, trackable, reliable, and easy. Sectioned struts to maintain full suspension travel on a lowered car Struts with adjustable dampening -- likely illuminas Spring rates of 225f/250r Bump-steer spacers Options would include: Camber plates Vented 4x4 brake upgrade Rear disk upgrade Give me some feedback on the ideas, and let me know what I can do to improve. I want to know what YOU guys want to see in a kit of this sort so I can make it happen! Target price is right around $2000 for the basic kit and $2600 for the kit with bolt in camber plates. Waiting to hear back from the machinist on brackets and spacers before I put out a preliminary price on the kit with brake upgrades.

I have one off of a 94 camaro if that will work for you. It's used with unknown mileage. I should also have the stock balancer as well. You can have them if you cover shipping. PM me if interested

FWIW, my '71 with the stock cam doesn't have any lugs on it either. Getting a source would be great

Anyone have anything? Cash in hand guys!

dhp123166, I really like your rear "bumper". It looks like it suits you car well the the flat black and the exposed screws/rivits on the muffler. Very down to business

Well, I'm still a huge fan of the Grid car, and still think that Nissan was crazy for turning the design down...

http://www.whythefuckdoyouhaveakid.com And something based around the good things: http://www.givesmehope.com http://www.mylifeisg.com 19752802+2 covered the majority of them I have a few that I'm currently working on making right now, and I'll post up some links once the sites are up an running.

Take a look at item #4 here. Check out the l6 section and read through the stickies. And most importantly, look here.

Sounds amazing! What's your workshop called? I'd love to see some pictures of these uncharted waters

still need the front marker lights? PM me

I imagined something like this happening.

I didn't remember which engine (or even engine family) you were running Darius, so I didn't realize you should have been making so much more power. Definitely not a cam choice issue! The lifter problems definitely sound like a a possibility. How long ago was the engine built?

bump Still looking! Ideal spring rates would be be 250/275, but am open to whatever you have. Will also buy just sleeves and collars and find my own springs. Looking for nicer coilovers than the Cosmo units