cockerstar

I'd skip the duct tape and go with blue painter's tape. It isn't nearly as sticky so you have to be more liberal with your application, but it doesn't leave behind the same kind of residue. WOW! That sounds is absolutely amazing! Very deep and it has a perfect lope to it. Easily one of the very best exhaust notes I've ever heard from an L series The vid wouldn't play in browser for me, but saving the link to my computer was pretty quick and it plays just fine in WMP.

rofl the Fu Man Chu, taken to the extreme!

What happened to the first engine? Very nice looking car! I'm in love with the color!

Please, for the love of us all here, be very detailed and documentary with your suspension install!

I do agree that a red pinstripe would look nice. It would also lend itself to a few red accents! Possibly red marker lights to replace the orange?

Not a problem man! Helping each other out helps make this the most constructive site I've ever been a part of! Glad to hear that you've already got it covered though, because I have a feeling it would have resulted in busted hatch glass for the both of us

Sorry to hear that man! It's 15 degrees out and all of my spare hatch glass is covered in more than foot of snow, but I believe that it's all still intact. If you're willing to pay shipping, I have some cold tested glass you can have Well, that is if I can get it out of the hatch without busting it...

DOH! I recently rattle canned my engine bay that was in the same shape, but I taped everything off with plastic and masking tape. The foil is a great idea! Also, laying down some primer of the same brand as your paint is definitely worth the extra $10 it's going to cost you. Makes the final product much more durable and better looking in the long run.

Nice find! Where did you pick it up from? Properly stored?

If you have the holes drilled for rivets, I'm sure some would be willing to do the final assembly and rubberizing with something like plasti-dip. Definitely a cool idea though! Some pics (both installed and uninstalled if you have them) would be great

Check your local craigslist, autotrader, and the for sale forums on here and the other Z forums

*jaw hits the ground* Amazing!

Well, lets put it this way. Going from medical + liability on my 1991 honda accord to full coverage + medical on my 240z only cost me $7 more per month. I'm 18 with a perfect driving record (one speeding ticket that I differed - doesn't show on my record) and I have the "steer clear" program and good grades benefits from State Farm. If I remember correctly, steer clear is 20% off my total and the grades get me 15%. I think my total is something like $55-65/month, somewhere around $400 every 6 months. I know that it doesn't exceed 1k/year, but if I didn't get my discounts I would be around $1200. edit: still on parents insurance plan and will be until I'm out of college. We hold several policies through state farm (cars, home, boat, r/v, blanket policy) so I'm sure that also brings the costs down significantly.

If you already have the material, wind up as much as the retractor will take, and then mock it up in the car. If you keep everything snugged up how you want it and then remove a few inches from the overall length you will be left with the maximum belt length while ensuring that you won't be left with extra belt flopping around when not in use. It shouldn't matter how much belt there originally was if you find the right amount to fit your specific set up Hope this helps!

Does the link that Grumpy provided work for you guys? I keeps freezing my browser, but the text does load up and I can read the beginning of it, but I am not able to scroll. It could very well be my computer though.

Trevor, those wheels look excellent. Definitely one of my favorite wheels on a Z, although I might go with a little thicker tire if it fits. Maybe a 55 on the aspect rastio or so:) bco6, those are also very, very nice. Which wheels are they? I'm interested in the size of the spacers each of you are running to get them to fit properly.

Search! Your answer is in the stickies in the paint section. Your question also doesn't belong in this thread

Mark, I completely agree with you on the sentiment of only using quality pieces for a high load application like this. The flywheel is definitely a not a place to have something go wrong, both from a cost standpoint and a safety standpoint. I'm planning on getting them from a local fastener specific store, M&M bolt. There isn't any way I'll be buying them if they aren't properly rated I've found a set of NOS on ebay, but they're $38+shipping. That's approaching $7 per bolt, which to me, seems completely ridiculous. I'll give my nissan dealership a visit if I can't find proper replacements, but I'm not really banking on them being any cheaper that what's on ebay. If it comes down to it I'll end up tossing the starter back on my parts car, doing a compression check, and then pulling the engine/tranny for the bolts I need. It will give me a chance to part it out Come to think of it, I haven't actually tried starting that engine, maybe I'll be in for a surprise... Thanks brokebolt! Hopefully your username doesn't become extremely ironic in the near future I'm going to see what I can come up with in M12 X 1 x 18. Does anyone know if the flywheel to crank bolts and the pressure plate to flywheel bolts are the same?

Wow, I don't know how I missed that detail. For some reason I jumped to the conclusion of him using the subi axles only because he used the entire subi diff. The carrier would require the same splines. DOH!

Sounds like a series one thing to me, but could be wrong. It makes sense with blue72's situation though. Doug, I think you should be fine

This is going to sound like a completely uneducated question, because it is, and I can already assume the answer, but is it feasible to swap the carrier form the subi diff into the datsun one? What's keeping it from swapping right over and not having to deal with all of the fabrication?

Hey guys, After searching here and the rest of the web, as well as my haynes manuals, I think it's time for a thread. I have the original engine rebuilt and sitting on the stand waiting to go in, but I don't have the bolts to install my flywheel. I'm also lacking the bolts to install my pressure plate. I haven't been able to find any replacements so I'm ready to go hunting for them outside of their intended purpose. This is the only thing keeping the engine out of my car! I know that they will need to have a high tensile strength, and I have heard not to use anything under a grade 10.6 in a thread discussing an sr swap. Any input on this strength requirement? Does anyone know the size of the bolts I'm looking for? Hopefully I'll be able to order some from my local fastener store. They haven't let me down yet, and I've come in with some pretty oddball requests before If not it looks like I'm going to have to yank them from one of my parts cars, but I'd like to avoid dropping the exhaust and tranny if I can avoid it. Thanks in advance!

Definitely a "made in china" specialty. Everyone knocks them as being super low quality and comes to the conclusion that you are just throwing money at something that is going to be temporary and eventually grenade. The consensus is to put that money towards a nice Garrett or Holset, but there are a few people who have gone against the grain. The decision is yours, but with a set-up like you have I would go with the quality part rather than "cheaping out" on something else, especially when you already have a turbo that is functioning well for the time being. The most important thing is to set a goal for your horsepower, come up with a budget, and adjust the two so that you can have a reliable system that will uphold the both. Lets see some pics of your Z! How much boost are you currently running? Inetercooled? Just as a side note, this would ideally fit in the turbocharger/supercharger section rather than the L6 forum.

Does a great job at going in depth while maintaining readability and clarity So, in an all out race car the consensus is bigger is better most of the time due to 'winning the straight in the corners'? For the narrow tire to be better, the straight would have to be ridiculously long, correct?

Imbeding images isn't so hard You just have to use the "direct link" from your album and put it in between the tags. Quote my post for an example if you want to see what it should look like. That is easily one of the best before and afters I've seen! I'm loving the bumpers and the paint color. Some shots of the engine bay would be excellent as well. Didn't picture your $550 purchase turning into something quite like this, did you?