cockerstar

Yes, it does. It is an aftermarket cam with CWC and D2 stamped on it. If I pull off the timing gear I would be able to get the numbers off of it to get the specs and manufacturer, but that's a task for another day. It isn't uncommon to run both oiling systems at once with an upgraded valvetrain, although it is recommended to open up the oil feed from the block slightly to allow more flow. It is also possible to run block off plates (available through MSA) on the cam towers and just run the internal oiling system. I gave both of the bars a good look over again and everything looks like it lines up like it should, so I went ahead and installed it. It would still be nice to get some conformation that I won't be running into any issues before I start her up for the first time!

FI is only going to add to the flexibility and performance of your engine if you get everything set up right with something like MSII. It gives you the ability to tune specific parameters from your computer, and record data for comparison. However, you do lose the look/feel/sound/nostalgia of carbs, but in the long run the price is comparable to a top-end triples set-up with adequate jetting for tuning. If you do go with the FI set up, it does afford you the room to be able to swap heads and go turbo later on down the road after you have had your vehicle inspected and approved if you so chose. Personally, I would be going with a standalone FI system for your build. It isn't necessary by any means, but it will get the job done for a comparable price and allow more flexibility down the road. It sounds like you're going down the right road with the BW tranny and 240mm flywheel! It should be able to hold whatever you would likely throw at it in n/a trim. I think that your r180 should hold up just fine (again, staying n/a) if everything is in good condition, but if you already have the r200, why not swap that into place? In my mind it's kind of like going with EFI over carbs. It sets you up to be able to push more power down the road. I'm not sure on the 3.54 gearing. It would be great if someone could chime in on the topic. The stock half shafts are going to be the weak link in your drivetrain. If they're in decent shape I think they will do fine for you if you stay n/a, but if you do run into issues, you will have option to upgrade to CVs then. It would be a good idea to look around and see what the general power level half shafts start giving out at. I know that the way you drive the car (launching vs feathering) makes a huge difference. If anyone sees anything wrong with what I've said, please point it out! I don't want to accidentally put any misleading info out >.< I think everything is accurate, but I'm always reading and learning. Hope this helps!

Due to some botched repairs by the PO on my spray bar, I figured it would be in my best interests to pull one off of my parts car to replace it with before my rebuilt engine goes back into the car. When I pulled it off, I noticed that there were a few differences between the two and was wondering if I would run into any compatibility issues. After a search and quite a bit of reading, I was only able to come up with information between the change in oiling systems (from externally to internally). I've included some pics of the two to see if you guys can see any issues with swapping them out. Sorry in advance for the poor lighting and cell phone quality! The original damaged spray bar is on the bottom in all of the comparison pics.

annnnddddd, moving on... I would definitely love to see a roof skin made available assuming that the fitment was nice! Dings to the roof are so common in our cars. I demolished a decent parts car just for its roof skin because it was in good shape... For someone doing a reskin, a quality replacement would be well worth it.

Looks like a pretty awesome kit! According to the guys over on classicZcars, the stock door panels fit. You should only have to trim if you wanted to use the little plastic caps they provide to cover the old crank stub. Edit: I looked on eBay for this kit, and I found the same exact setup (here) Austin used for $135 with shipping. There seller has 10, so there's enough out there to go around The auction ends soon, but I'm guessing the seller will relist them. If not, the delux kit can be had in other auctions for $150 shipped.

Is the tach still accurate at lower rpms?

You sure have some work cut out for you, but nothing that will be impossible How does the hatch area look? From the little I can see it doesn't look like it should be an issue, and you should be thankful for that It's a major pain to repair that area and have it look right.

Try running half of a can of seafoam into your intake via the brake booster line, and put the other half of the can into your oil. Add another whole can to a full take of gas. Drive your car hard and then give it an oil change. That should clean everything up a bit

You're going to want to redo the door bars so you can get in and out of the car. With the tubing you will be able to utilize bends and make things much smoother I haven't seen someone tie the front struts into the frame rails by the firewall like that before. I've only seen it through the firewall and to the dash bar. I would also tie the front of the strut support in with the front most bar so there is only one point in the engine bay mounting to the fame rail. Take this all with a grain of salt, because this is just coming from observations of others tube frames and cages.

Might want to add steering before wheel into the title for searching reference. I thought it was about a smaller diameter tire before I clicked and wondered what it was doing in the interior section Very functional and inexpensive fix!

That's pretty impressive! I'm betting that there will be enough of a demand after you get all of the bugs worked out for this and the 10k stock tach if you want to sell/convert them;)

As Woldson brought up, you might want to consider selling in a different location or eBay if you don't get any offers near your asking price!

I might take one of these depending on price/quality. I just did a sunroof patch, but I'm not completely happy with the finished product. edit: thought I might mention that the CF wouldn't mean much to me at all, so a straight FG one to keep costs down would be appealing if it is significantly cheaper.

Loving the idea! Keep us updated

You should be able to reuse your old pressure plate and flywheel, but you will need to remove a spacer from the old flexplate.

ROFL That's absolutely amazing! Makes me wonder if she was just messing with your head the entire time...

Loving that color

Well, to update on the tools, I got a pack of 18 craftsman screwdrivers (mine were all old and mismatched) and a 3/8 drive torque wrench I think the torque wrench is going back for a set of the combo wrenches I got my dad though

Once it arrives, pics are mandatory! Too bad that thumb-hole and the action are on the wrong side

Not half bad Merry Christmas to you too!

Do tools count as car related? I gave my pops a nice set of craftsman combination wrenches for his camaro. It felt kind of odd buying tools in standard So far I have got some impact sockets.

Merry Christmas Looks like an amazing gift! I'm looking forward to the day when I'm able to give a car as a christmas gift. There's something about the thought of unwrapping a key and looking out the window to see a vehicle with a big red bow on top of it that is so appealing. Lets see some more pics! Hopefully your insurance money can be well spent now

$1.68/gal for regular 87 octane in Kennewick

Wow, sounds like I'm the odd guy out here! 1991 honda accord. Still DD it when the roads are clear due to the mileage

Congratz on getting accepted! The scholarship is a definite plus Where else did you apply? I'm still waiting to hear back from PLU, UW, and WWU on my apps. I'm planning on applying to UBC, SU, and UPS still. Maybe I'll add Gonzaga to my list of schools The stuff private schools do to make tuition affordable is pretty great! I have a 3.83 unweighted gpa and after talking to the admissions staff at PLU, I should be looking at ~$88k over four years if I end up going there. $88,000 sounds like a hell of a deal, but when you bring that into focus with the cost of tuition compared to a state school, it really isn't that amazing. It usually ends up being a bit more expensive than going non-private. You know of any schools, besides UW, with a chem engineering program? What do you want to do after you graduate? I've still got no idea what I want to do with my life. It's kind of been turned up-side-down on me lately...