Garrett76Zt

where did you mount the resevoir forrest?

VG30DETT - with the right turbos and tuning . . . 600hp before you crack the valve cover. Complete motor including TB's is behind the strut towers.

I updated original post with driveshaft info

woo woo

yep it sits about an inch out. You'll be fine.

lets race! HAHA

yes the VE is front sump. But so is the S12 so no issues there. If you were interested in a rear sump setup for a Z . . . I dont think there would be any issues as the bottom end is identical to the VG30de. The only catch may be that the front of the motor is much different than the VG, being all chain driven instead of belt. Honestly I'm not sure that it would matter so much, as the entire motor will be sitting behind the stock crossmember anyways.

LOL, first make sure its gonna work, THEN make it look nice. . . Haha.

So I'll have some competition for the dyno day eh?

Awesome pic there man, I hadnt run across that one. I received the VG crossmember that I'll be using in the mail this week. I just need to finish up the Z and then I'll pull this into the garage and start ripping the motor out and whatnot. I'm playing around with intake manifold designs right now for this thing.

I have done this once before, on the pinks car. Tranny mount was fine after multiple 6k launches. The shifter takes a bit of getting used to. it comes straight up as opposed to a tilted back feel. But overall its very smooth.

Install writeup is here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=665845#post665845

OK I'll get right to it. Heres the basic kit. You will still need to get a driveshaft made. This kit is available for sale and can be purchased through Mazworx.com In order to do this swap you'll have already taken the bellhousing of the Z32 trans off to get it machined to accept the adaptor. But I'm gonna cover putting it back together just in case. Heres what you should have. I stood mine up like this for reassembly but it could lay flat too. The first thing you'll need to do is locate this thrust bearing with matching plate. The bearing goes here on the countershaft, rollers facing up. And the plate goes here, concave side up. Make sure your mating surfaces are clean and then silicone up both sides. Next go ahead and install bolts and zip em tight. Now turn your attention to the shifter and shifter plate that came in the kit. 4 bolts/nuts and mount it in the same location as the stock shifter. The plate is installed over the shifter linkage. This spacer setup also needs to be installed with the shifter as pictured. Now that the shifter is installed, make sure that the tranny is in NEUTRAL. Now turn your attention to this sleeve/ball/spring setup. Guide the sleeve in first, then the ball, then the spring, then the tightening bolt. Tighten all the way down. Installed The last thing to do is to clean up the mounting surfaces on the front plate, inside the bell. There is a large C-clip snap ring that goes on the main bearing, and a smaller C-clip that goes on the striking rod that comes through the bell. Sorry didnt get a pic of that. Once those are installed, silicone the surfaces and bolt it up. Now you'll want to setup the fork/throwout setup. You will reuse the L28 throwout bearing and use the Z32 fork. Once that stuff is on you're ready to bolt it up. Now grab the adaptor and bolt it up to the engine using the tapered bolts (for the countersunk holes). Now before you bolt up the trans, there are two areas that need a little attention with a cut off wheel. the first is the shifter opening. I took off a tad more than needed but the shifter will sit further back than the stock shifter does. Now the second area that needs attention (I took pics, but now cant find them ) is the Tranny crossmember ears (1972 and up I think). The case of the z32 trans is a good bit wider and needs a little more clearance. Take the cut off wheel and take a good 1/2" or so off the inside edge. Pay particular attention to the front drivers side ear as this is where the most interferance will happen. This ear must have more material removed, even cutting into the bolt hole and upwards. At this point I tilted the engine back a bit and bolted the tranny up to the adaptor. Then using a jack to support the underside of the tranny. With that said, this is how I chose to do the tranny Xmember. No its not the most glamorous approach but it uses the stock tranny crossmember and I can GUARANTEE that it AINT GOING NOWHERE. If you wanna cut off the ears and relocate them or weld up your own crossmember, be my guest. Hehe The Z32 mount location is further back. Bolt your stock crossmember pieces to the trans and jack up the tranny into the tunnel. I slotted the bolt holes on the mount so that the crossmember comes up exactly rearward of the ears. With the trans all the way up in the tunnel, I then ran two 1/2"x7" Stainless Steel Carriage Bolts through the ears and into the stock crossmember, using lock washers and nuts on either side of both ears. With all the nuts tightened its SOLID. This philosophy is identical to how an engine stand works. I went ahead and took some pics of shifter location now that the tranny is installed. Driveshaft specs: Length I gave them was 29 1/16" from flange to output shaft Flange yoke I used (same as zx turbo i believe) Powertrain Industries(spicer) part #3102-20 Slip yoke I used (30 spline z32) Powertrain Industries (spicer) part #3103-30 Spicer U-joints 1310 series #5-785X Spicer Tube Yokes #2-28-437 They had to order a few of these parts in which tagged a few bucks onto the bill but my total was $304.39 This Driveshaft is good for 800+ft lbs torque