Pac_Man

As far as I know, the only difference in 280z coupe doors was the upper door frame. Changed in 77. That being said, my recommendation would be the Kia weatherstripping option.

Title pretty much says it all. I like the OEM vents but will consider aftermarket ones. Located in Everett, WA. Just PM me here. Thanks!

Hey Jamal, just for the sake of research and clarity I believe the style of spoiler that you're looking for is the IMSA 3 piece spoiler. Happy hunting.

In the interest of keeping things tidy I'm running into this same issue. I disconnected the entire ignition module and still nothing. Kind of worried I accidentally hooked the tach (-) signal to positive on the coil or something since I ended up pulling all my wiring off, checking it, and redoing it. Not sure if that would fry it...

Since it was the easiest thing to test, I tried moving the distributor. Once I turned it as far as I could clockwise, the car would start and run if I kept my foot on the accelerator just a bit, but died as soon as I let off. Once I got the chance, I removed the bolts as cgsheen suggested and messed with it a bit more. This is the result: Still no tachometer, though. No oil pressure gauge, either. I'm starting to wonder if I disconnected a ground somewhere or something.

Apparently using the P79 would yield the same compression ratio as using a P90, so that would be closer to a "normal" turbo setup. That said, I've heard of people running the N47 with a turbo and doing alright. If the MSD system is working then you'll probably have a much easier time tuning for the slightly higher compression ratio and be fine. It's really up to you.

Well just to see what happened I loosened the distributor bolts and rotated it. I moved it as far clockwise as I could and got the car to run a lot better. It dies immediately if I take my foot off the gas pedal, not sure if that's due to timing still being off or what. Here's what it's like now, but I only got a few minutes with it before having to leave again. Also I disconnected the whole ignition control module and still no tach. :/

The way I have the fuel pump relay wired is the relay is activated by the signal from the ECU, similar to the stock 280zx setup except without the fuel pump modulator. Theoretically when the ECU sends voltage to the relay I should get voltage to the fuel pump. I just measured resistance at the ECU and got ~200 Ohms from two different testers.

Hi NewZed, I attached what I believed was the proper blue wire but didn't notice anything when I was cranking the engine. I located another blue wire and didn't think it was the right one but tried it anyway. Still nothing. I'm a bit stumped at this point on that. I'll go test the ECU connectors. If the AFM signal is not reaching the ECU, would the ECU also not send the signal to the fuel pump relay to power the fuel pump? Because I think I'm having that issue as well. I jumped the connection with a wire in the meantime but that's obviously not a permanent solution. Oh and for reference, I have an 82/83 harness/distributor/engine.

So close, but so far. I have fuel pressure and my injectors are firing. I have spark. I have compression. The engine cranks and fires but just won't catch and start idling. I doubt it's because it is a fresh rebuild. My first suspicion is timing, but I don't really know where to start. I've been trying to research those who have had similar issues but have been unsuccessful in really finding anything useful. I got it to barely run for a few seconds and I had to hold my foot down with the accelerator pedal to the floor or it would try to choke. It was very rough. I also noticed my tach isn't reading anything and I'm frankly stumped on that. Could the signal resistor be missing? I'm not sure where its physical location should actually be but I recall reading somewhere that it's inside the car on the passenger side so it should still be there. I also installed a stealthy killswitch for the fuel pump positive wire. Thinking about it now, I suppose posting the location on a public forum may not be the wisest choice.

Well I think I found the culprit. I had a wire that needed to go to switched power hooked up to a black/white wire which actually wasn't switched power. That's what I get for making assumptions without my multimeter to check! I have spark, but now I don't seem to be getting injection pulses. I ended up running around for most of the evening so I didn't even really get a chance to look into it yet. Hopefully the weather is decent tomorrow as well so I can look into it more. Here's a bizarre note- I put my throttle linkage back together like it was with the old engine and my gas pedal sits on the floor and opens the throttle when you lift it up toward you. I flipped the linkage so the hook is upside down and that fixed it. Random things of interest.

Is there anything in particular I should look at with the CAS system? I'm guessing it receives power through the little tab on the distributor. If I still have issues after rechecking the wiring I'll have to start getting into more methodical diagnosis.

Good news- I've got oil pressure! Bad news- no spark. I've got fuel pressure and compression but I verified no spark with a spark plug test. Tearing up my ignition wiring to inspect and verify it. I'll have to continue that tomorrow.

Alright, a bit more of a proper update now. Since I'm a full-time student, progress tends to be slow. The owner of the shop I was working on it in said it was taking too long and I had to move it. Fair enough. Ended up getting a friend's dad to help and he brought his truck and trailer to move it to my house. It's been in my driveway for a while now and I've been chipping away at it as time and weather allows. The starter is getting ignition voltage now and the engine turns over. Unfortunately the battery has been sitting a while so it was clear that it wouldn't last long if I kept cranking the engine so I stopped before I drained it. At this point my main concern is oil pressure- or rather making sure I have it. I also sorted out the intake setup as well as mounted my oil cooler: At some point soon I'll get around to measuring for the driveshaft and try to figure out the transmission crossmember. I can work outside until 8pm if the weather is decent which is very helpful.

Well I thought I had about all of the wiring done, went to make sure the starter wire from the ignition switch it getting voltage, and nothing as far as I can tell. I think the multimeter I was using may be busted and I have another laying around somewhere so I'll have to find it. Needless to say it's not encouraging...

Does your computer recognize the hard drive anymore? I've had my Windows drivers get corrupted and make my laptop unable to boot but I plugged the hard drive into my desktop and was able to recover the files I wanted to save. If that doesn't work, there are companies that specialize in data recovery. Find one nearby or if you can't seem to find one that's good, find one that you can mail the hard drive to. Don't use Geek Squad, they don't really know what they're doing and usually try to sell you extra crap you don't need.

Decided to put the horse before the cart: This was a lot more work than I expected: On a side note, the Z31 ignition coil bracket lines up perfectly with the stock 280z coil mounting points which was a pleasant surprise.

Made some more progress today but not as much as I'd hoped. Got the old wiring harness and ecu out and got the new harness in. Had some trouble getting the old harness out, pulling it though the inside of the car seemed to work best. The AFM is the only connector that doesn't fit easily through the firewall but you can make it work. For installing the new harness you just have to push the ecu connectors through and then pull it until the grommet seats. It's easy, at least it was for me. I also switched the crank pulley from my old engine to the new one (the 280zx is 3 row).

Thanks. I've noticed a lot of threads on HybridZ are outdated and often times there are questions that aren't answered. I spent a lot of time digging through posts as well as making a couple threads myself to get help. My goal in this is to have a newer thread that documents all aspects of the swap to make it easier for others to follow when they attempt the same. Hopefully I've done well so far.

Got a text saying yesterday and today were good days to work on the swap so I went in today after class. Started by removing the AC condenser which was surprisingly easy. Looks like a bird got smashed between the radiator and AC condenser though... not sure what's up with that. Then I removed and plugged the fuel lines and removed the starter, alternator, and fan clutch. Then I bolted them onto the turbo engine. I had already unbolted the alternator and the bottom starter bolt so removing them while they were still on the engine in the car was a breeze. I think it was around this point that I also decided to pull the old ECU out. Messed around with the harness but couldn't really figure out how to pop the rubber grommet out of the firewall easily so I left it until I got the engine out. Then I drained the radiator through the water petcock on the bottom. It's plastic, so luckily no worries about it being rusted and seized. Then I finished removing the driveshaft. I already removed 3 of the 4 bolts and had the 4th loose enough to back off the rest of the way by hand. Next is a word of advice, drain the transmission before removal. I couldn't get the drain plug loose so I tried to put a rag in a bag over the tailshaft and put a rubber band over it. It started to leak and later on the bag fell off and made a mess... If you can't get the drain plug loose, unbolt the transmission crossmember and tilt the back down and drain it out the back. You won't get all of it but you'll get enough to save yourself a big mess and a headache. One last shot of the engine ready to come out: After some sketchy maneuvering with a cherry picker, we eventually had to unbolt the ram and add spacers to it in order to get enough height to remove the engine. I had help with this part which was lucky. Once the engine was over the radiator core support, I hopped into the engine bay and lifted the transmission up to get it over the core support. The car was in the air to clean up the spilled transmission oil underneath, don't worry. At this point I have about 7 hours into removal of the engine. I've never done this before so it was kind of a learning process, and I wasn't trying to rush through it. I'm happy with how long it took me, considering I did most of it without any help. I'm going in tomorrow to get the other engine in. I'll have to figure out transmission crossmember modification and driveshaft length. I also have to get my downpipe modified and replace the stock nissan turbo exhaust flange with a v band, as well as get my screamer pipe rewelded so it's angled differently. Of course I also have to mount the turbo ECU, put the new wiring harness in, and splice in power connections where needed. I got the new rear transmission seal from Black Dragon today so it arrived just in time. Once all that is in I'll throw the radiator back in. I'm pretty exhausted so if I forgot something, forgive me! I can't even think straight at this point.

Going to try to sell the whole thing if possible. If I end up parting it out I might end up holding onto the intake manifold but if I sell it I'll give you first dibs. Thanks, I was trying to figure out how to unhook the part with the spring and washer but after posting it in a Facebook group I had it pointed out that there's actually a little cotter pin holding it together. The shop I'm doing it at has a leveler attached to the crane so I think I'll be able to manage it. Doh! In all my detail I forgot to write that out haha. I won't forget them, I just was going to leave them until last. I'll probably plug them while doing the swap though.

I think the forces of the universe are working against me... Class last quarter was brutal so of course I put the swap to the side. I finally got a time arranged to go into the shop and when I got there, all the bays were in use. I got a time arranged last Saturday. I needed another vehicle since my car was going to be put down until the swap so I waited until I could get a ride. It was a bit after 11 when I got back and ready to work. I waited for the bay I was going to use to get cleared of the car that was in there... for 30 minutes. By that point I had about enough time to get the car into the bay aaaand stop. I had to go pick up relatives at the airport. I waited in the pickup lot for them for not even 15 minutes (in their car) with the radio on, got the text to come pick them up, turned the key and... car was dead. Luckily the first guy I asked had jumper cables. By the time I got back to the shop again it was 3, so I had about 2 hours to do whatever I could. In that time I got the sway bar and driveshaft unbolted, drained the engine oil, disconnected the EFI harness, disconnected the vacuum lines, removed the exhaust, unbolted the alternator, removed the stock air intake filter housing, and maybe a couple other things I can't think of at the moment. The nuts holding the front exhaust pipe that bolts to the manifold don't want to come free so I sprayed them with PB Blaster before leaving. If they still don't want to budge I'll probably just leave it since it tucks against the engine and transmission pretty well and shouldn't cause much drama. To finish removing the engine, I have to: - Figure out how to disconnect the throttle linkage - Drain the transmission or bag it to keep it from leaking - Remove the fan shroud - Drain and remove the radiator - At this point I'll probably just remove the fan and fan clutch since I have to swap them over anyway - Disconnect and unbolt the starter - Disconnect the oil pressure sender - Disconnect the A/C lines - Unbolt transmission x-member - Sling up the engine, unbolt the motor mounts, and lift it out!

I've done a lot of poking around with what driveshaft will work with the NWC T5 found in the 280ZX turbo (aka the FS5R90A). Putting the FS5R90A into an S30 will mean you need a custom driveshaft. I still don't understand it to this day but the T5 driveshaft is something like 1/2" too long to be a direct swap into an S30. A friend of mine did some modifications to the motor mounts to scoot everything forward just a smidge and made it fit, but a lot of people would say that's not the "right" way to do it. He has also reported driveline vibration at highway speeds so I suspect his driveshaft is either still too long or the u joints are bad. Jamal (borini63) on the forums here wrote a post I think on zcar.com or maybe another website stating he used an automatic driveshaft in the T5 and it worked fine. I never bothered to ask him about it and while he does seem to know what he's doing, I find it hard to believe that it would work. Your best bet would be find a place locally that will make you a driveshaft for a decent price. A well-equipped shop can make you one with replaceable U-joints and a differential pinion flange that will bolt up to the smaller R200 flange found on everything but the T5 diff. If you can't find someone nearby, I called Powertrain Industries in California and they quoted me a very reasonable price for a brand new, custom made driveshaft.

Ah, my bad. Though I'd have to imagine Nissan used the same T3 on the Z31 turbo as the 280zx turbo, but that is just speculation.

It looks similar in shape and placement to the infamous Phantom Grip, but not identical. Perhaps an older or different style of the same thing?