jasper

What is your fuel pressure at idle? What is your fuel pressure when you open the throttle? What are your compression readings. Posting specifics and test results will enable others to help with educated experience,,..rather than guess.

$80.00 where I work. The atmosphere is approximatly 80% nitrogen to start. You might be able to up the percentage of nitrogen with our fancy machinery....AND OUR SPECIAL NITRO VAVLE CAPS!!! as a value added bonus....BLING FACTOR All B/S. Not worth your money.

An old machinist budy, ( I forgot all about him), set me up with a face broach tool, that allowed me to "machine" the Minilites to accept a standard alloy/mag wheel bolt in tire valve. Better than NEW!!! Holds air, looks like it was born that way. I got the car out of the basement on Sunday. Started right up with a shot of carb cleaner, (7-8 months storage). Sounded SWEET!!! Ran it up and down my private road a bit and, BANG. Popped out of reverse under a light to moderate load. More like BANG. I'm thinking I busted the reverse idler. Fine in forward, BAD in reverse. Intermittent engagement/slipping, only in reverse. Have reverse gears been a problem in 260z's>????? 4Spd MANUAL. I"ll be doing a bit more diagnostics, before pulling the transmission. I have the correct replacement trans in stock...........thanks RAGS (hope it's good) Your comments/experience would be appreciated.

I think you're getting a video "how to" with the carb set. Should help. I did this swap on my early 260. Pretty straight forward. Change the studs if the spacers are to thick. A few coolant hoses to eliminate/cap. I also went with a 280 exhaust manifold and headpipe. Worked out quite nicely. I also used a pre egr balance tube. Will require a 280 throttle link. I went with stock round top air cleaner, easy and has built in airhorns/velocity stacks. Good luck

http://www.1010tires.com/TireSizeCalculator.asp?action=submit

In addition, 2 extra blondes, a stick of butter, plenty of liquor, And unlimited WACK a MOLE.

Fuel pressure spec at idle is 30 psi, at filter. A stuck open injector can cause flooding. You obviously have more than 1 problem. Start by fixing what is broken/out of spec. WHAT IS YOUR MANIFOlD VACUUM????? This is an excellent indicator for mechanical, and other problem diagnosis!!!

DUCT TAPE is not an acceptable way to repair the intake boot between the MAF and THROTTLE. ANY LEAK WILL CAUSE PROBLEMS. As a result people try to tune around this problem and throw EVERYTHING out of wack. Start with a good boot, and correct ignition timing.

What is your intake manifold vacuum at idle?? A well tuned STOCK engine should pull 18-21 inches of mercury, WITH A STEADY NEEDLE! A hotter cam willl lower this reading. Your fuel pressure will increase as a result. 130 psi compression could be the result of a very hot cam. What I saw of the video goes along with a hot cam. What is your idle speed?

I'm thinking , heat generated changes everything......

Hey Dave, when all is said and done....don't ditch the bolts that assemble the bumper componets, if you don't need them, I'm interested. Thanks.......

We're almost out of the woods. I forgot I had a friend/aquintance who was a machinist. We had a chat over the wheels and assocciated parts. We came up with a pilot bushing and face broach set up, "witch he had on the shelf", A few turns of the magic tool, gave me paralell sealing surfaces, and what looks like a factory fit. I'll finish the other 2 wheels tomorrow. FYI ....local machinist who digs cars and bikes. Has a machine shop in his back yard...Sharp guy . WILL MACHINE FOR CASH......GREAT GUY.

When do they expect him to get out of the HOSPITAL. I'd have a hard time restraining myself................

I have one in my shed, with the same "Disco top" 73 240z

Does the car run hot at highway speeds? That is when the engine makes the most heat, and the radiator has to get rid of the most heat, and air flow is at it greatest. if this is not a problem..... At low speeds, radiator air flow is most likely the issue.

Bad news. The valves didn't work out. The mounting/sealing surfaces are not paralell. The inner sealing surface appears to be concave, and partially in the radius of the wheel. Plain and simple...They leak. Yes the wheels are painted. They look like they lived the good life,18yrs of storage , at a minimum.

I searched the web for an hour and a half and got #3 resolved. Milton makes the correct valve for the wheel. The rubber valve removed was for a steel wheel, and was dangerous at best!!! Milton Hi-Performance Tire Valve MILS-409 • For use with mag, aluminum, exposed or reversed chrome wheels • Clamp-in type, brass chrome plated • Complete with two grommets to fit .453 or .625 valve holes Still concerned about magnesium deterioration........anyone?????

1) I have Minilite wheels on the 260Z. I believe them to be real Magnesium. Does ANYONE have knowledge on how to determine if they are Magnesium ??? 2) I read this on another forum and it was very unsetteling; "Old magnesium wheels may look good but can be as brittle at glass. Better get them x-rayed or magnafluxed or whatever the kind method one would use to check them for cracks and such. Unless of course you are going to use them on a trailer-queen... " 3) I started to mount the Sumitomo HTR'S tonight. I cut the old valves out. I then found that they are much larger than the standard tire valve!!! I called 4 parts stores. No help. They resemble truck tire valves (larger diameter). Maybe i can go with bolt ins??? ANY info on these wheels, etc would be very much appreciated....Thanks

Have you ever heard the saying about flushing the toilet after taking a turd, and you have an instant NASCAR race?

You need good tires. Uneven wear causes problems. Get a new set. Worn ball joints are a major concern. Do you have a printout of the alignment specs??? It would be helpful to post them if you have them. I replaced front lower ball joints, tie rod assemlbies, rotated my tires,and and did alignment on my Benz last week. After:severe pull to the right. Steering wheel off to the right. severe shimmy/vibration at 60 mph . Got it back into shop....balanced all 4. Found r/f with a road force of 41!!! 1/2 ounce out. rotated back to original position....no pull, goes straight,steering wheel straight, no vibration..........ONE BAD TIRE!!!!!!

Fuel pressure/bowl level is not the problem. SU's don't have a real choke/plate. They also don't have an accelerator pump. Choke is accomplished by dropping the main jet to richen the mixture. It has no plate to increase the vaccuum signal in the carb. You have to rely on cranking speed to draw the mixture in. Cold= slow crank, poor fuel atomization also. This system does not work well. I had the same problems 30 yrs ago. I ran 2 batteries in the winter, and sometimes ether to get it started. Try starting your car with jumper cables attached, and see what happens......

I bought a set of Sumitomo HTR's 2 weeeks ago. I got my insurance 2 days ago.($125.00 a year, full coverage, $18,000 agreed coverage!!!) I drove to Trenton NJ and got temp plates today. (Very wet out there) I managed to get personalized plates!!! , reading....... "260Z" The maiden voyage/shakedown run could happen this weekend. I'm sure there are a few bugs. This car hasn't seen the road since 1992. (I bought it in 2006) I think I'm going to get myself a nice FIRE EXTINGUISHER as an accessory. Back in the saddle after 29 years.........( I wrecked my first 260z in 1980)

A GOOD charging system at idle, puts out 13.6-14.2 volts. I would take another look.

Are you running sealed beam Halogens ??????? We seriously need to talk...........