jasper

I paid $2,300. , for my used 74 early 260z about 1979/80.

They're both nuts ,bolts, pistons etc. If you can't get one running, what makes you think you can get the other to run?? Start at the beginining/basics first. That's how I fix them everyday.

Nice.......

There may be a term for this, but I can't remember it. The Peter principle? If a person does a job well, they get promoted . This cycle continues until they rise to the level of their INCOMPETENCY !!! They can no longer do a good job...and that's where they stay. Performing a job they are not qualified for. Another saying/justification for a given action/inaction that burns my ASS, is the INFAMOUS......"it is what it is". It is my firm belief that someone made it this way, and all we have to do is use our intelligence to make it different/better !!! I consistently watch superiors hide behind this statement.

Worn throttle shaft bushings can cause minor idle variations/change. They are a MINOR vacuum leak at best and can be compensated for by enrichening the idle mixture. As stated, bad power valves generaly cause a rich condition, which may be masked by leaning out the idle mixtute screws. START at the beginning, and give a COMPLETE explanation/history of the problem.

In 35 yrs, I've never seen that. I don't think they make skatter shields for alternators...

Use of a vacuum guage is smart/essential. From my experience, an erratic vacuum needle indicates a bad intake valve/and or an intake gasket leak. Check the back of a service manual for vacuum guage readings/diagnostics that resemble yours... leading to a diagnosis /repair. ERRATIC VACUUM READINGS are engine mechanical/intake related.....not carbeurator. ps...A bad/leaking power valve will cause a rich condition, not a massive vacuum leak.

pv= Power Valve??? They are made in different "inches of mercury" value. The correct value is essential/required, as is the mechanical state of the engine to develop the nominal/normal vacuum. Start from the beginning and explain the situation/ problem in a factual, progression of action/thought.

Nice job. Back in the 70's, when I lived in New York City (Manhattan), the PIMP that lived in the hi rise on the corner, had a 1969 Eldorado that was flocked in green. The car was not painted and felt like a pool table...had the BIG Superfly headlights too.. I'm TOTALY SERIOUS....http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y0KTQsNjr7Y

Did you run it LONG ENOUGH to clear out the exhaust system from the previous failure????? This could possibly take quite a while. I've been in this situation before.

What was the PSI when.... " I had perfect oil pressure before it happened". A stuck pressure relief valve in the oil pump can cause this on a cold start, (high pressure). I remember an old BMW 318/320I had a similar problem, the oil filter exploded. Replaced the pump assembly, problem solved. What changes/repairs were made recently,prior to failure???

Sounds like you have worn/ loose suspension/steering components. I would start with a thorough inspection.

For me, the pics are now visible in your original post. Now that bike is sick..I would not even attempt to ride it. If you stop too quickly, your nuts will be hanging on the rear carb, as you go over the bars.......

"I am in a gifted program, and all Pre AP classes, except for algebra III that i cant find myself passing (and it has ruined my GPA) but i cant think of a career outside of the automotive field that even so much as makes me want to go to college for... Go to the library, or go buy the JOBS book. You'll be very surprised at the choices you have.

Congratulations on having the forethought/inteligence/awareness, to ask the right question,at the right time. This is only MY OPINION, take nothing as Gospel. If you have above average inteligence, (and it seems like you do),Do not even consider trade/mechanics school. Use you mind, not your hands to make a living. Your upward mobility can be endless when using your head. A pair of hands, even educated hands, are not worth much. I didn't always fix cars for a living, but I do today. There is no such thing as seniority/job security, etc in the auto world. When you get out of trade school, you'll be changing oil next to the guy with 30 years experience,(me)..... At about $10.00 an hour, same starting wage at Walmart, by the way. It gets worse.....Go to a shop and ask the older guys what they think...... Working for Uncle Sam has it's benefits. The down side is possible combat/loss of life. If I had a second chance, I would have completed my engineering degree..or better yet.....been a Lawyer. I was/am fully capable of doing both. I would suggest college, if your capable. If you choose the right school , get grants, loans,scholarships ,it will cost you less $$$$ money than for the tools to be a mechanic . There is a book printed every year. It outlines just about every job imaginable. I gives schooling requirements, expected salaries, responsibilities, projected growth of the market etc, etc, etc, GO BUY THIS BOOK. You can always learn to work on cars later in life, while your butler serves you cocktails, and the gardeners tend your Mansion.

I started working on cars/helping my Dad, about 1971. Years later, my first car was a 1968 Dodge Super Bee. About 1979 I bought my first 1974 Datsun 260Z. Today, I work on 2010 new cars. I find it amazing/difficult, to watch beginners try to learn to work on datsuns, and try to meld the old and the new. NEITHER IS EASY!!! There are 2 different ways of making a car run. Reading is fundimental. I'm kind of lucky to have grown up/straddled the technological transition of the automobile. ONLY GUYS OF MY AGE GROUP have seen/learned this. The information you provide, is essential in helping you make your DATSUN run well. Collect your thoughts, and present your questions in a chronological, and inteliigent fashion. Your thoughts should make sense to others who have no knowledge of your car/repair history.

Frustration aside, organize your thoughts. Start from when it ran well. If it ran like ♥♥♥♥,.....start there. Pay attention to punctuation and a logical train of thought...........it helps others help you...........

Do you have a similar problem??? And IF SO......you need to fill us in on the history etc,etc, etc,

Read the FSM, it should explain the function. #1 does not appear to be plugged. Looks factory, and is probably a hot idle compensator (some american cars also had them). #2 is a hot air door for cold weather operation. You don't need either hooked up.

Pull the spark plugs and inspect for cylinder-cylinder differences. With a light, inspect the tops of the pistons. If coolant is getting into a cylinder, then the piston(s) is usualy VERY CLEAN compared to the others. If you have a compressor, you can pressureize each cylinder to check for combustion chamber leaks also.

The "new" trans is back in. Enough for tonight. Maybe tomorrow I'll button it up. I have to scrape the dirt out of my eyes tonight.

Simple Green and water,and a little running will clean it up nicely. This was common practice at Saturn when the single cam cylinder heads cracked. Turned the whole cooling system into a milkshake.

From my experience..... # 1, probable lean mixture/exhaust leak. Check, replace injector/repair exhaust. #2 install new valve, etc, as stated in post. #3 Check factory manual...not sure.

So, on my back, on the ground today, I pulled the trans on my orange 260, (51k). I dissasembled and found all the teeth missing from reverse gear, as suspected. This trans must have suffered a severe trama prior to my ownership to cause this damage.( Never road driven by me) Then I pulled the trans from a 260 parts car that I got from Rags, (car on the trailer). Thank you JESUS.. every thing is the same. I will install tomorrow. It's only been damn near 2 months registered and insured! Could be the first road test tomorrow. All the tire/wheels still holding air after the Minilite tire valve/machining modifications.