jasper

I looked at the 74 blue 260Z in Teanack NJ that was for sale. I offered him a grand. He was going to let me know:sad:, he had other lookers. I haven't heard from him. Who got it, and for how much?

I bought 2 dell's. At about 1 1/2 years old, both units suffered power supply failures about 3 weeks apart. Calling the boys in INDIa/Pakistan/Kazistan(borat) was of little help. Your credit card number please.........right.

CLIVE!!!!!!!!! Your killing me. There's no way that I can put the 350 TPI in my car. I think I need, NO, I must do an LS1. I blame this on you.

Are you sure the shoes hanging up are the problem? The drums tend to "weld" themselves to the axels. Mine weren't off for the 15+ years the car sat.What I did....worked great, no broken parts. Get a 2 by 4, approx 2 feet long. Place one end alll the way forward in the wheel well. Angle the outer edge against the fins of the drum.The opposite edge of the 2 By 4 then rests/presses against the strut tube, which is on an angle to the drum. With a HEAVY hammer, pound the 2 by 4 down (between the drum and the strut tube) Since the strut tube is on an angle, as you hammer the 2 by 4 down, it will push the drum out. Tapping the axel center with the drum preloded will also help....Worked for me!!!!!!!! As it begins to move, rotate drum 180 degrees so as to remove evenly, avoiding cocking.

Start engine in neutral. Step on clutch. Wait 3 seconds. Attempt reverse shift, gingerly. If it grinds, your clutch is not releasing. Could be hydraulic, or mechanical (disc,or pressure plate). Possible distance/length problem witht fork/t.o. bearing/pivot. Hard to push shifter into first? Was this a conversion from an auto? Pilot bearing installed? Too tight on input shaft?

How did you CONFIRM this?

I've had partially clogged radiators do exactly what you are desribing. Low speeds, engine doesn't produce a lot of heat. High speeds, lots of heat. Radiator can't get rid of heat, no matter how much air flow you have. Get an infrared heatgun and check each radiator tube for equal heating/temperature!

No Strut Removal Required!

Get a few worm type hose clamps. Open them up and put them around a couple of coils. Use a few. Tighten them incrementaly. Once you get to the piont of adequate compression , push/hold spring into position, and unscrew hose clamps, easing spring into position.

Also probably pops back on decel, another telltale of an exhaust leak at the manifold.

You have a blown exhaust gasket. It is common to burn through a gasket when the manifold is loose. No amount of tightening will solve this. You need a new gasket. The valve spring issue is probably purely coincidental. Killing the cyl. by disconnecting the injector, or pulling the plug wire, stops combustion, and consequently the exhaust noise.

Is your system a gravity type, or a pressure dose type?

Remove spark plug. Rotate crank to back down piston a few inches (by hand). Push clothes line into cylinder through spark plug hole, filling cylinder. Rotate crank by hand to compress clothes line and hold valve up. reverse procedure to remove.... But this does not sound like a mechanical noise! disconnecting an injector will not affect a vavlve train noise. Can affect a piston/rod/bearing problem. This sounds like a simple exhaust gasket leak. This head looks to have been rebuilt. Note the knurle in the valve guide, normally not factory. Your problem with that particular valve/cylinder may be coincidental.

I wouldn't use gasoline during cleaning. A real danger of FIRE :fmad:There are kits on the market that come with an acid cleaner, and interior coating for preservation. If not, use some diesel or kerosene and a hand full of nuts in the tank to remove scale/rust/ dirt. Shaken, not stirred.

I agree. I was just curious as to why the auto only was listed as a 180? TYPO?

Correct..Turbo!

Thanks for the thread. What I found: 280ZX 81-83 Automatic all (3.545) (R180) 280ZX 81-83 Turbo - all (3.545) (R200) 280ZX 81-83 MT (3.9) (R200) The previous info found claimed ALL 280zx's had R200's . Which is correct? Thanks again..Tommy

I've done a bunch of searching. Lots of info to sift through . I may have the chance to buy a 82 280ZX turbo,AUTO, minus many body parts,etc. What I found during search: R200 long nose, 280Z, 280ZX, 300ZX Ratios 3.36, 3.545, 3.70, 3.90 LSD April 1987 and newer turbo From what I've read, no LSD, 2 pinion open diff. Since this is in an ATUOMATIC, anyone know what the likely ratio might be? Any corrections to my assumptions/search info would be appreciated....Thanks.....Tommy

Not sure what they're for,...but not a Datsun Z:nono:. Z carbs have a square mounting flange, with 4 bolt holes.

:mparty:A honest 51k on the clock. All original, including the paint. Sat in a guys garage for 15 yrs. The fuel system was a mess. Now has a cleaned tank and '72 SU's. Not bad for $5k.

Years ago I was a tech rep for Volvo Penta. As an example, we had a line of marine diesels. The EXACT same engine was available in different H.P. ratings. The only difference was the injection pump output. More fuel=more H.P. More H.P. = less longevity. (rated in hours)

Maybe I'll give my son the 350 IROC TPI motor for his project ( he's hooked) and hopefully find an LS for Me!. Clive, keep an eye out for a donor car for me.

Wealthy enough to own/lease a Benz, but not smart enough to know that ALL sunvisors pivot for use in just that situation. Except for MUCH older cars. Probably getting ready to make a phone call.

I suspect if you open the hatch, you will find noodeling paraphernalia, next to the half empty bottle of Jack Daniels.