jasper

I would be looking at the ground side of the park/ turn signal lamps. With a bad/poor ground, voltage can back feed through the other filament. I've seen it many times.

Sounds like a bad battery, poor connections at the battery, or bad starter. My money is on bad connections. The loud click is probably the starter solenoid. The dim lights are either a bad battery/ terminal/ground problem, or locked/ siezed motor causing a high draw on the battery. Disconnect battery, clean terminals,,...check grounds, and make sure engine did not lock up.

my sons car. I like it a lot!

If you suspect the distibutor, advance each wire 1 position on the distibutor cap. rotate the distibutor in the same direction.. if your misfires move to different cylinders, suspect the trigger wheel in the distributor, or cap.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xZWhQDEMH4Y Pay attention at 39 seconds of play time....Pause if you'd like. A roll bar wouldn't have helped.

You need to be a lot more specific on what your problem is. Valves do not generaly "blow". They can burn, break, or drop....but not blow. A lot more info and pics would be helpful....Good Luck

Do yourself a favor. Pick up a set of decent round tops, with air cleaner. this will solve your carb problems. Flat tops are not user friendly. I have no advice on repairing flat tops. Good luck.

FYI. FLAT TOPS SUCK. MY suggestion.(WHAT I DID) Get a set of round tops. Get a 280 exhaust manifold, headpipe, and manifold heat shield. If you're lucky enough to find a non egr balance tube, you'll also need the 280 throttle link (LONGER). If you can gather these parts, than I can help you make it all work!!!! (EASY) Oh yeah... should be a square port 280 manifold..most likely, assuming currently stock

Popping back on a decel is normaly caused by an exhaust leak close to the head, lean mixture ,or air injection that ocurrs on decel. (possible diverter valve/air injection issues)

Bilsteins might help control that bouncing problem.

Do you know how to check for ignition spark?

What has changed in 27 minutes?????

Check for high voltage output , possibly caused by a bad voltage regulator. norm... approx 12-14 volts. over 14.3.......BAD . check at all rpm ranges and loads on system. Make sure battery terminals are CLEAN AND TIGHT.

I'm a Toyota tech. The rear spark plugs on a v6 suck. Some REALY SUCK. We don't get paid extra time for a service with plugs.....WHICH SUCKS THE MOST. My cars are 4cyl, or straight 6.....they don't suck.

For you guys in the NJ area. I'm considering cutting up a 78 280. Way better in the rust department than what you guys are thinking about fixing. Maybe we should talk.....Tommy

Hi Grumpy! Your professional opinion and guidance would be appreciated. I have a '77 280z 5spd coupe, 48k on the clock, no rust. Last saw daylight sometime in 1982. I also happen to have a 1989, 350 TPI/700r4 Camaro setup. approx 60k. A marriage has been arranged. Goats and chickens have been exchanged between various family members. I plan on using the JTR parts and game plan. Most probably the 700r4 also. I plan on resealing the engine prior to install. Open to mods at this time. SUGGESTIONS? 700r4 vs 5?/6spd? PREFERENCE? MAF vs speed density. I'm a bit ignorant on this subject/choice. Diff ratio suggested?? The car will NOT be raced or auto crossed. But I may be guilty of abuse from time to time. I'm looking for a nice, balanced package. I have NOS Bilsteins and springs on the shelf. I don't need 450 HP....Kind of hard to get it all to the ground and use it. Thanks for your help/ advice/ expereince......Tommy

20 yrs ago.....long story short..ARI.......Changed a set of POINTS with the end of a dipstick ( aka screw driver ).

Question? Do you cut your rotors on the car? From my expereince, it's the best, and makes sense.

It has 3, 2 bbl webers/mikunis, to consider. I'll trade you a roof for the carb set up , if you buy it.

Courtesy nissan has the correct wheel cylinders for $68.00 each. Other than a lot of work swapping to a later model set up, I would bite the bullet and spend the money for a proven setup, and reliable parking brake.

If you can't get the wiring straightened out, even with some professional help, I'd take the first reasonable offer and be done with it. I wouldn't throw good money after bad. Just my opinion. Or you could sell the drive train and do a carbed engine, if your that good with body work. Lots of engines to choose from these days.

First, I would check for TSB's. See if you can get the info on the parameters on the self test. It tells you the prerequisites and operating parameters for the self test to complete. Maybe one of the guys at the dealer will print it for you. Or search online. I know on Toyota, a marginal cat will not complete a test, and stop other tests from completing.

Picked up FREE 6 bimbo hot tub today. It's a monster..with heater. I have to go to Walmart to pick a new set of florescent SPEEDOS. Got dad's old car on jack stands for suspension repairs. Paid $3.79 per gallon of gas for friends truck at 10 MPG. Appprox 10 beers today. Call possible new girlfriend. Sunday, car show and swap meet. Mow the lawn. More beer. R&R clutch hydraulics on the 74 Z. More beer. Maybe chinese buffet in the evening . More beer. Monday no plans.......any suggestions???

After looking at the pictures a bit more, it's obvious you have a seriously bastardized carb. No choke..due to removal of air horn, later model plastic vac. cap. fuel tube with misplaced O ring seals. (strong risk of fuel leak) . A real fire hazard. Don't ask me how I know. Do yourself a favor and get another carb. What size engine is this for? Mods???. DO NOT oversize the cfm. All you will get is poor performance , problems and bad fuel economy!