240hoke

Hancook Ventus 245/45/r16. They do not get the job done. I see they now have a few 265's out there. I will prolly move to a 265 rear with my next set of tires and maybe most to a 245/50 in the front.

Just call a freight company. I always use SouthEastern freight lines. They all work together to network from place to place. It would probably be pretty cheap to ship...although auto parts get marked up a bit as they are a different freight class. Im guessing it would be 150-250. Always helps to dropoff and pick up at a hub to....will save you alot of monies. They will need to know the size and weight and freight class (just tell them auto parts). you will have to put it on a pallet.

Okay Guys, I recently rebuilt my axles, but used the wrong kind of grease So before I put to many miles on them I decided to repack them with some Redline Moly CV-2 grease. Needless to say this is not a fun job to do twice. Anyway I think I got it right the first time, but I wanted to double check which way the inner center part goes on the axle: Position 1: Position 2: I originally had them in position 1. Thanks for any help.

Oh make sure whoever buys this thing doesnt use a SSAutochrome manifold, it will probably crack.

I saw a supra with one of those the other day.

Ken I honestly could care less what you do with you car, as it is yours. But this is the root of the problem and why I even responded in the first place. Just because it works for you does not mean that it will work for everybody. I fear that if somebody has the same issue with a mazworxs adapter and they replicate what you have done they will ruin a bellhousing..or worse a transmission.

You need to find some new engineer friends (perhaps make me one ) or maybe they need some more details to make an educated decision. I will restate what I said before..... The cast holes on the stock bellhousing are not machined nor do they have any type of tolerance with respect to a pattern or themselves. The cast holes are there to allow the bolts to provide a clamping force...there will be excess 'play' by design due to casting variances. The factory dowel pin holes are the only features that are machined precisely and are the sole features that align the bellhousing. They also take any shear loading that may possibly exist. This is NOT my opinion, this is the way it is. If you ream a factory hole you are left with a reamed hole with the exact same tolerance as the cast holes all you did was change the diameter. Now if you were to know the bolt pattern (located by the main bearing center line) and you REMACHINED the bolt holes to accept shoulder bolts...then yes they would be a feasible alternative.....Im guesing this is what your machinist did. However this is a ton of work and totally impractical when a dowel pin will suffice. Additionally as I stated before a shoulder bolt is not ment to be used in that fashion. You're free to disagree, if you think cast tolerances are good enough for your adapter then go for it...I just wouldn't recommend it to others. Ill leave it at that. You will not have any of these issues with my adapter they are machined right and have SS dowel pins that 'perfectly' align the bellhousing.

IMO, Dowel pins are the ONLY way to go. Aligning a transmission off of reamed cast holes is not good practice and will NOT work for every bellhousing unless they are indexed and machined to match the adapter. Shoulder bolts are also for location and shear loading, not really tension and compression, as a transmission adapter sees. I would send the adapter back before I used shoulder bolts....period. if it doesn't line up there is something wrong and it needs to be fixed. As for the starter hole, if you use a gear reduction 280zx starter you harderly have to notch anything out of the transmission and you have a very small opening that would be easy to cover. As for the machined bellhousing vs. 1 pc. I dont think that there is anything wrong with the current adapter and machining the bellhousing however for most people not having to machine the bellhousing would make things ALOT easier for many people.

Yea shhhhhh, keep it on the DL. I already have a beautiful shifter relocator as well!

That adapter looks TERRIBLE!! I have never seen and up close picture of one...not too impressed... Shoulder bolts are NOT a fix for alignment in my opinion. You cannot properly align something based off of a cast reamed hole because the hole pattern is not controlled to any specifice tolerance (in fact many are pretty bad off). The only way to use a shoulder bolt would require useing a end mill and re-cut the holes off of a known pattern. The only accurately machined holes on the bell housing are the dowel pin holes. For my adapter a original dowel pin hole is used as a datum and then the other one is machined off of it. The instructions are in the download section of this site for those that are curious. My adapters have several advantages over the mazworks unit: 1.) Stronger ~.75" thick 2.) Beautiful machining!, individually cut to parallel. 3.) New SS dowel pins with instructions for machining 4.) All high grade metric hardware 5.) All holes are now heli coiled 6.) Tumbled and Anodized 7.) Strong shifter relocater I still have 8 spots left on the list for the current run...listed in the group buy: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=151039 Here is a high res picture of my adapter: http://gallery.voodoo-people.com/album926/IMG_3285?full=1 The only thing that I would change is making a 360 degree unit with a crank spacer so no machining is required. However cost would go up a good bit and I have yet to have a complaint about my adapters. I am planning to start work on a Z33 6 sped no machine adapter in the near future. I have a block and a trans I just gotta get to measuring.

Phil your car looks absolutely sick....congrats

Dave if you ever choose to sell you car for the above mentioned price please give me a call When I talked to Hagarty they said around 20-25K shouldnt be a problem for a nicely restored/modified 240z. I never finished up with the deal though because I still had a ticket on my record, I should be good to go now and plan on signing up with them....sounds like you have had a reasonably good experience. I have started driving my car almost daily and I am afriad something like this will happen and Ill just have to part out the car since I carry allstate. Good luck with everything, sounds like its going to be fixed right.

Well .633 is pretty close to 5/8" (.625) which you can buy from summit for 60 bucks a pair. Here is a link to a set on Summit, you can get them from Jegs to: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BAE-2000004/

Bristol was a lot of fun to watch. I cant imagine trying to keep a 850hp in check on that little track packed full of cars... Marcos seems to be a cool guy listening to his interviews and stuff.

A sexy clearance picture..... This is with a 3/16" stack of washers. I will be running 1/4" Baer spacers. I decided to bite the bullet and buy some "nice" lug nuts. Those are KICS R26 lugs. I have had issues with galling on aluminum wheels, my girlfriends miata wheels got galled bad when the dealership used an impact to tighten the lugs. I inspected the seats on my wheels this go around and noticed a small amount of galling and I usually used a torque wrench. These KICS lugs have floating seats that remain stationary when you tighten....I liked the design and think that they should cure any galling issues. Oh and they also look good

My girlfriend drives a white miata She has a hard dog roll bar, KYB adjustable shocks, springs (forget brand), and ss lines with hawk pads. See wants to get sways next. We both want to get out on the track but $$ is stopping us now...hopefuly next year and can both start hitting up CMP and VIR fairly often.

Very nice install! You should scan it and make a PDF and post in the downloads section

Dave , Was that for a single license and was it personal or commercial. Thats definitly cheaper then I thought it was. makes me more hopeful for trying to start something on my own.

Youd settle lol. Solidworks IMO is much better, I had to learn Pro/E over the summer for my job and once you get the hang of it its a good program but it is not very user friendly...solidworks has got Pro/E beat in most areas. If you want to use it to design and sell you own parts, I think it would be smart to buy a license... but its gonna be thousands of dollars Im going to guess around 5 but it looks like you have to get a quote. I use student versions of both programs, I was lucky enough to get them that dont require registering with a server so they are on my comp for good If I was going to start a side business though I would purchase the software.

Good deal, I just ordered some nice shims from mcmaster so I should be able to get it dialed in good. I post results when I'm finished.

Thanks for the info on the run out guys, Ill go ahead and shim it out..I really didn't know what was acceptable. This is one thing that I really don't like about the setup...for minimal effort and cost AZC could switch the design to use floating rotor hardware, which would be better all around. I may have to work on this Baer's spacers look pretty nice, summit has them in stock so looks like ill be going that route. Wanna test these things out this weekend. The rotors are installed via the manufacturers directional markings. As far the the hubs, Dave makes kits for the 280z and the 240z hubs you just have to specify when ordering.

Hey Guys, I finally splurged and bought the AZC front brakes for my car. In doing this I had to go back to the stock hubs so I dug them out of the corner and refreshed them with new wheel bearings and ARP studs. I went with the Mazda Miata 12mmx1.5mm - 2.75" Studs, ARP PN: 100-7719. They have an identical Knurl and work very well. I am very impressed by the kit it is super easy to install and everything went together well. I applied a generous amount of blue loctite to everything to be on the safe side. Other people have mentioned run out problems. I had .002" of run out on the passengers side and .010" on the drivers side. Hopefully the drivers side will be fine if not I will shim or turn it. The Wantanabe's are a super tight fit and it looks like I need about a 10mm spacer for the front to give me comfortable clearance. Anybody have a suggestion for a place to buy good quality spacers? I know its the same ol same ol but here a few pictures:

I think id pass on that one....if somebody makes a driveshaft and an intake like that its gotta make you question the quality of everything else on the car.

Thats pretty baddass....at least they are out on the track with it!! It may be worth 12 million but it wont cost near that to fix looks pretty cosmetic. Kudos to the owner

Thanks alot guys, Im still really stoked about everything and cant wait to get started...I'm sure these next few months are going to fly by. Matt - You'd love to see the transport vehicles lol, they have several of the aero trucks you were telling me about. GrumpyVette - Haha maybe thats my end motivation....except I don't think Ill have much time to work on my own stuff anymore once I start working. But a few years down the road it will be on for my next street car build