Six_Shooter

^^Yes, this. I've done it more than a few times, for one off parts, that needed modifications like this. I've used carboard, plastics, metals, and a few other materials for temporary forms.

You could have skipped any foam use and applied the fibreglass against the cardboard.

Tires are 225/50/16. Stock height: Eibach springs (approx 1" lower) Stock: Lower The springs have settled approximately another 1/2" since I took the above pictures.

I have found with mine (I don't recall if I have flat tops or not, need to check again), that at around 6 PSIG, up to around 9 PSIG I get some detonation at anything less than ridiculously rich (fatter than my WBO2 reads), but once past that the detonation goes away rapidly. It seems to be related to intake temps, more than actual boost pressure. When the car is not fully warmed up, I get no, or next to no detonation, I have noticed that my intake temps are also cooler. Just some food for thought.

I'd like to see those pictures. Can't be any worse than I've seen of other 240s. Like these ones: That Shelby doesn't look abandoned, due to it sitting on clean pads, and being open like it is in front of a garage. There are 2 pictures of the same car, one open and one closed up.

Small world, I bought my Z from Richland Washington.

There are a number of pictures on the previous page of my IC tubing and routing, was there something specific you wanted to see?

To connect a GM module to the dizzy, follow the existing write ups for that, but instead of using a 4 pin ICM, use a 7 or 8 pin ICM, following the MegaManual instructions for using the 7 or 8 pin ICM. I think the reluctors are the same in the dizzies that have the module attached to the side and the ones that use a remote mount module, so it shouldn't matter, other than aesthetics. IIRC, I removed the shaft from mine and welded the mechanical advance, so that it didn't. I know on other some dizzies, a lock out bushing can be used.

Took these earlier tonight:

Took these about an hour ago:

The actual headlight connector (not the jumper harness) is the same for many vehicles, since it is a common headlight. So you can find those plugs anywhere. the tailight sockets might be a bit more difficult, but you can try sockets from many different vehicles. I would suggest looking at Nissan vhicles of similar vintage, like the 280ZX, like you suggest. You may also find that much newer Nissan vehciles use the same or a similar enough socket that will work. A few hours in an Auto Wreckers will help out here.

Yeah, I've only made the suggestion (a few times now), because the turbo dizzys seem to be harder to find anymore, and I know this is one ignition control option that works, with both sides of the parts (non turbo dizzy and the ECM). Of course there are a multitude of other options, like the Ford EDIS, GM DIS from a FWD GM 2.8/3.1/3.4, EDIS trigger wheel and COP, custom trigger wheel and COP, etc. Personally, I'd just use DIS. This is a quick and easy way to interface the existing and more common L28 dizzy with an ECM, especially aftermarket, like an MS, or a Delco, as I run. The dizzy does nee dto have the mechanical advance locked out, and the vacuum advance can just be left disconnected. I had planned to make a piece to lock out the vacuum advance with mine, but ended up going to DIS soon after getting the turbo/EFI conversion running. If anyone needs a locked out dizzy (and maybe a GM ICM), I have mine still around, that I would like to sell. When I pulled my pan to add the oil drain back, I believe I just pulled the 4 bolts holding the engine brackets to the rubber mounts and used my engine hoist to lift it a couple inches. If there is no engine hoist available, a jack and a piece of wood under the harmonic balancer/pulley would also lift the engine, though it would be less stable, than lifting from the top.

Thanks. if my plan works out, I'll post details. It's not an easy conversion though and requires machining, if it all works out.

The biggest problem with that is that the crankcase vent is higher than the turbo would be located. The oil drain needs to be well below the turbo, in order to have a properly functioning gravity drain.

You can control timing with the MS, and using a non-turbo dizzy, by using a GM 7 or 8 pin ignition control module, triggered from the dizzy. I would say I've done, and for all intents and purposes it would be the same, the only difference is that I was not using an MS, but a Delco ECM. Communications between the ICM and the ECMs are the same.

The output splines and shaft diameters are different. The only swap 'n' play axles I know of are the '88 Shiro axles, which will be near impossible to find. I'm planning to make a set of axles from parts that I have on hand to install a VLSD in my car.

Nice, that's a good steal... er.. deal.

It still amazes that people actually build cars that look like this.

I'm not usually a fan of chop topped S30s, but I like where this is going...

I've had a boost control problem for a little bit.... again.... arg! So I decided to install the additional wastegate springs a little more elegantly. I bought a package of new springs and made an additional arm to mount to the wastegate lever. Original install, I started removing them before I took the picture: Arm: Test fitting: I decided that since two springs came in a package, that installing one spring just wouldn't be enough, so cut a little more metal, drill a couple more holes... I <3 b00st: So far, it's working better. I hit a solid 15 PSIG, which is what the ECM is programmed to control the boost at. I haven't held it there for long, but will test more probably tomorrow, to make sure that it's good.

My experience is that the T5 is weaker than the early Nissan 5-speeds, though my experience is from different vehicles, one being much heavier, but making a little less power. I'm still intrigued that people that own early Datsuns and Nissans want to go to the T5, while people that own cars that came with them of other makes want to get rid of them... I'm planning on a Z32 trans behind my next engine. Currently getting closer to 300 HP (if not eclipsed it), calculated to be around 250ish WHP (from trap speed, last year, making less power than today) so far, with a 1981 N/A 280ZX trans, with the only change being from the stock aluminum shift forks to earlier 4 speed cast iron shift forks. I only did that because my 1-2 shift fork had been broken for a few years, and once I lost the ability to shift into 1st and 2nd, I decided it was time to fix it. lol I only had a 4 speed available to me at the time, so I went with those parts.

You can change just the harmesses atached to the back of the gauges, no need to swap internals, unless you want to. I would use the 280 volt gauge at the very least. These issues won't be that difficult IMO, a few careful splices here and there, and the wiring will bevtaken care of, if splicing will even be needed for the heater controls.

I would compare what the bumper was intended for and what your car actually is, to see if it's just a body difference. I know there are at least 3 different ways the bodys at the rear bumper attachment point were. There are probably more variations on it too.

Some EFI doesn't need a separate crank position sensor, it just needs to know that the engine is turning and at what RPM. The coil negative trigger will do in many cases and is what the early Nissan EFI used for reference. Other systems, while only using a simple pulse from a dizzy, can run much more complex systems, because they are still based on simply knowing that the engine is turning and at what RPM, other sensors, like the MAP or MAF, TPS, etc will also be used to make the engine run well.

I would use the side windows with large NACA (style) ducts if I were to do this, and try to keep some semblance of a street car. If NACA ducts won't grab enough air on their own some window scoops would.