Six_Shooter

Take a close look at the Subbie trans, the "tranfer case" is built into the trans itself. It has a shaft that runs through the gear sets from the rear of the trans, to provide power to the front diff, that is mounted inside the trans. See pic: ] It is because of this idea of running the shaft through the trans that I was at one time looking at using a Subaru trans for an AWD conversion, but couldn't come up with a clean way to run that shaft to an external diff, so that I could keep the trans and engine as far rearward as I could. I have some ideas, just not sure how well they would work. AWD is still a possibility, though low on the priority list. How would mounting fenders and sheet metal to a tube front end be any easier than another sub structure? Either way, mounts would need to be made. Have you actually measured a Subie boxer engine? They are wider than the Z engine bay, or at the very least as wide, and would require basically cutting out the existing frame anyway. Back when a discussion of a Subie engine in an S30 came up, I had ideas of mounting the rad above the trans, with some custom duct work to cool air through and away from the rad, let the engine hang out with the grill. I wonder how close the headlight buckets will be to the heads and intake? The good thing about the Subie engine is that it's short from front to back, but it still sits in front of the front wheel center line. Interested in seeing how this turns out.

Definitely check your local laws, and anywhere you plan to drive the car. I know for a fact that around here, you'd be pulled over and fined very quickly, because the exhaust is required to exit behind the passenger compartment, or behind the rear most opening windows. It would be better to run a conventional exhaust, and just have vents that look a little fighter plane exhaust-ish. If you really MUST have the exhaust exit there, I would at the very least run an exhaust cutout, so that you can run the conventional exhaust on the street, and the fighter exhaust at shows, or parades.

Also a smaller pic would be nice, easier to see when the the PC screen isn't 36"

Oh man, Kirchoff's voltage law.... It's been about 12 years since I actually used that.

Try the yellow pages?

LOL, I was just thinking of going with a temp Zero or similar paint job on my currently brown 240.

I won't buy from him, and I live within driving distance. He's at some of the larger swap meets around here and the 'glass products he sells always look like they were laid up by a 1 arm, 1 eye chimpanzee. He wants a lot of money for the stuff too. I don't know how he's still around.

I don't think anyone in this thread that are "pro squirters", are denying the fact that there are other items that can be a benefit, but why not use every advantage you have? I think many people that are worried about the oil volume being an issue forget that the oil pump in stock form is bleeding off a lot of pressure AND with that volume of oil. There is more oil volume capability using the stock pump than most people realize. The volume of oil directed at the pistons is not very much at all, but enough to give an ample amount of heat transfer capability, basically enough for a thin coating, not a drowning.

Most modern piston squiters are not laid out like that. The layout you are suggesting is used for additional lubrication of the wrist pin and cylinder walls. Piston squirters are like nozzles, located at the bottom of the bores and aimed at the piston bottom when just before or at TDC.

The pressure reading will be accurate. That will be a nice way to keep things looking simple.

Uhh, I didn't do my drain fitting in the car, you may want to edit your post to use the correct name.

Or you can try something "new" to the Datsun world ( as far as this website is concerned) and install the oil squirters. They work, and work well. The engine I am swapping into my car (eventually) has oil squirters on a pair of pistons (due to them being hottest due to the design of the car and layout), I have bought additional OEM squirters to add to the remaining cylinders for cooling reasons. The amont being sprayed is not a large amount, less than the supply to a turbo, and the stock (non turbo) oil pump has no issues supplying oil for the engine and turbo. If it was me, I wouldn't worry too much about whether the oil pump can supply enough oil or not.

+1

The drain hole is too low and too small. The oil that is draining from the turbo is usually like a froth or foam, (hence the large oil drains) and not very oil like. This has to be returned to a point above the oil fluid level for best results, to allow the froth or foam return to an oil state. I suppose the oil drain could be used, in conjunction with an additional oil reservoir that is fed from the turbo drain, but mounted high enough to not allow a back up of oil that wouldn't allow enough of an area to allow the froth to return to an oil state. But this is just over complication a simple fix. The only time I tend to build the additional reservoirs, is when the oil level is above the pan rail, such as a Ford Escort with a Zetec I worked on years ago, and most Hondas. I like you're thinking though, looking at alternatives.

That's why you don't use a drill bit to make the hole. You're also grossly exagerrating about how quickly the engine might be damaged from a few small particles in the oil. You're also forgetting about the screen on the oil pump pick-up and the oil filter.

THIS^^^ Quite useful. When you open the FSM in Adobe, look for a section that is "BE" AKA "Body Electrical."

I rotated my tires, at high speed. So far, I've driven it to meet someone, then to get lunch and now home, in a few minutes out to meet a friend. I <3 driving my Z.

If it's the bolt that I think it is, it's open to the coolant passages, when the bolt is removed is a "leak." Tighten up the bolt and the "leak" will go away. There shouldn't be any coolant in the oil, the gasket between the front cover and the block should have that possibility sealed off.

Pedal boxes are the same between auto and manual for the same year, just the pedals need to be swapped out.

Those are factory gauges with a new face, I plan to do the same for my gauges, after some funtionality improvements.

A wise tuner once said: "Give the engine what it wants" Why are you not supposed to go past ".2" on that value?

Think about that for a minute..... Ok.... Try adjusting it the other way, (increasing the numbers) at lower voltage.

What is your battery voltage doing at idle? Is it fluctuating as well? You may have to adjust injector compensation tables. I've recently adjusted mine (different system, not MS), and it has helped greatly with a surging idle I'd occasionally get.

Change fluids, especially oil, fuel, coolant and brake fluid (don't forget the clutch master uses brake fluid). Brakes will need to be replaced, likely including the flex lines. Belt(s) should be changed. Wiper blades will be dry rotted, as will the tires. You will likely need to rebuild the carbs. Check over all of the systems for functioning, brakes, clutch, electrical. When you change the oil, I would pull the cam cover off and when adding the new oil, pour it over the cam and followers, to coat them with oil. Pull all the spark plugs and put a little oil in each cylinder, crank the engine over by hand spraying a little more oil in each cylinder after a revolution. What you're trying to do is get a thin coat of oil on the cylinders to take the harshness out of a dry start. Once the engine is nicely turning over by hand, you can connect a battery, with the ignition system disconnected, to get oil through the oil galleys. Once there is good oil pressure, and oil through out the engine, you can reinstate the ignition system, and attempt to start the engine. You will likely find that door seals and such will also need to be replaced. Fuel lines may be brittle, so replace those, along with filters.