Dan_Austin

The last couple of times a twin cam 24V L6 head topic has been brought up I thought to myself 'That Derek fellow might just be the guy on this forum to do this in a reproducible fashion' If this comes in less expensive than a California divorce I'll be all over this...

For the washers look at late model GM trucks. They have a wiper arm mounted nozzle that looks like it can be adapted with minimal fuss. I have the Reaction Research kit and was going to cut in a set of Nissan or Toyota adjustable hood mount nozzles, but tried a set of parts store universal arm mount units. They work, but I am looking to replace them with the GM truck units in the near future. One the crickets front, I find I do not frequent the pinned forums as much as, well all the others. Perhaps incorrectly, but I see the pinned topics as static content for archival. I suspect others do as well. A members project thread might get you more conversation...

No south island means no visit to the John Britten museum...

An intercooler would be extra work to install, but likely worth the effort. On the FPR front I will say that finding ORB fittings can be a pain, which is not a big deal once you have it all together. And as Metro points out, you don't really want to use someone else's tune. One, the baseline works as a great stating point if you put the right info into TS. Two, you have no idea if the donor tune is any good. Three, a borrowed tune only makes sense if you and the donor have all major components in common, cam, injectors, turbo, ignition components, otherwise you have enough work to do that you might as well start from scratch.

It only took six months, but I am now registered as a SB100 smog-exempt specially constructed. The BAR tech was super friendly and a car guy. His project was a K10 blazer he wanted to do an LS swap in, and interestingly was picked in part due to being old enough to not need bi-annual smog testing. The DMV clerk had the classic deer in the headlights reaction to my paperwork, but the office supervisor got her on track. The clerk asked by I did not keep my 38 year old classic blue plates. I was not given then choice, but the randomly assigned modem plates have a pattern that suggest I indulge in self-pleasure around the clock., so I guess they will work. Next up will be adjusting the panel alignment, mounting the license plate, adding windshield washers and trying to find an antenna that both works and can be mounted behind the dash or under a fender.

At the risk of jinking it, I think the end is nigh. I have been calling BAR every two weeks since I 'junked' the title, each time getting told that they had not heard from the DMV. So I would email my contact at the DMV and be told to make an appointment with BAR and take in the junk receipt. Then in the middle my DMV contact went on vacation, so no status for two~ish weeks. Yesterday I called the DMV rep first thing in the morning and lucked out, she was in and answer the call. These folks deal with enough people, so I expect to need to review my case each time. When after just a few words, she asked if I was the applicant that needed to junk the donor back in April. I confirmed that. She wanted to know why I called as she approved me over four weeks back. I told her that the BAR supervisor I was working with said he had not received that info. Turns out the approval went to his boss who did not pass it along. So the DMV emailed and called the BAR supervisor and told him I was approved and to issue my exemption plate. She also told me that if BAR did not call by the end of the day to let her know. I had a busy day, and while BAR did not call, I decided just to call them this morning. They confirmed my approval, and another call secured an appointment on Friday morning to get the plate affixed. Then off to the DMV for plates. This milestone will release funds for the bodywork beyond my skills and a coat of paint. I love matte black, but that may not pass committee, on the other hand if I present a modern neon green or yellow as options, it might be considered the better choice...

Before looking at the logs I would have guessed IAT heat soak. After looking I would say it is a possibility, as both logs have 140F+ MAT in the beginning and taper down as the car runs. Perhaps try adding 5~10% fuel to the MAT correction for temps about 140F would help the lean hot restart. Your idle MAP and VE look high to me, but that may well be just how a super charged setup should look. I've been following your threads from the beginning and suspect you know way more than I do about the supercharger and MS platform. That said I wonder if the superchargers idle bypass valve/system is not functioning as desired and you happen to be pushing air even at idle, not enough to be 'boost' but more than the engine needs at that load.

I received my provisional approval by phone today. BAR wants the 'Datsun' to be salvaged before they will affix my tag, then I can complete the process for the new title and registration. The DMV clerks and my contact in the DMV HQ had originally agreed to this step after BAR approved my application, but now think BAR has the right idea. Since Friday is often a quiet day at work I bailed a couple hours early and went to wait in line at the DMV. It is not a good sign when the site supervisor not only recognizes you but knows you by name. They had to call HQ a couple times to get clarification, but I left with a receipt for a junked car and yet another temporary operating permit in case I cannot get to BAR and the DMV next week. I've held off doing anything major to the car while waiting on BAR's decision, so it looks like I can soon get back to work.

The tuning process will be just about identical regardless of the version. Jesse nailed the real question- Do you want to build the ECU or just use it? Despite the extra cost there is a lot to the MS3Pro to recommend it- No ECU soldering, built in SD card and RTC, automotive grade AMP connectors, smaller footprint that might make install a tad easier. On the budget side, if you plan to use a single coil, and batch injection you could even use a microsquirt, but that would effective limit any future tweaks.

The friend who has helped the most on this project just informed me he is moving back to Alabama. He bought a house with a short closing and is preparing to sell his place here. We chatted about how his projects were going to be a whole lot easier going forward...

The DMV could not amend my application and suggested I re-apply for a sequence number. I called the office that inspected my vehicle and confirmed the documentation he would need to issue the new VIN number was what the DMV agent was suggesting. So it looks easy enough. I should have learned to not be optimistic by now. I got into the DMV a couple hours before closing and made it to the counter 20 minutes before closing, hoping it would be just enough to call Sac. Nope. The agent and the supervisor both understood the reason I was back and were happy to help. Except their system showed my previous registration both complete and cancelled, so they could neither apply my paid fees to the new registration or refund them. They eventually decided to accept the registration with fees due and said that Sacramento should be able to fix that mistake, but of course reached that decision just after 5:00 I'll find out on Monday if my contact in Sacramento can finish the application that the local office started and track down my missing fees...

The MS mega-manual actually is quite instructive with how to develop a timing table and largely mirrors what Tony described, but also points out that the full advance by XXXX RPM is at 100Kpa, or full throttle, then describes some basic suggestion of how much timing to add per 10Kpa below 100, or to subtract per 10Kpa above 100. The amount to add/subtract per 10Kpa was determined by the factors Tony lists and bore size. In years of shade tree wrenching and tinkering with ASE mechanics, I had never heard the suggestion to think of the full advance at 3000 RPM at full throttle as the starting point. Maybe I am the only one, but if not that simple fixed reference made the rest of the (simple) calculations to create a base map make a whole lot more sense, and made it clear that I had sections of my map with potentially 12~15 degrees of additional timing possible. In practice it ended up being an average of 8~10 more usable in the 2500-3200 RPM and 45-60Kpa range. Looking at your initial curve I suspect this is not new info to you, but maybe to someone else dabbling with setting up their timing map.

After a week of thrice daily calls and voicemail messages I finally reach a human inside of the DMV in Sacramento. The agent that reviewed my case is on vacation for a month and has my paperwork locked up, but her boss was willing to spend time discussing it and asking about the my copy of the paperwork. Her first question was 'What make did the officer document on the VIN verification form', I answered 'Datsun', and she replied, 'Yup, that is wrong it should be SPCN'. I told her that the officer had refused to issue a new VIN number, pointing out that the certificate of sequence had my original VIN on it, and choose to match the make to the original VIN. So it looks like the original clerk should not have entered the VIN, or the officer was wrong to not issue a new number. I am waiting to hear back from the DMV to see if they can amend that CoS to not include the original VIN and then schedule another CHP visit with the DMV contact on speed-dial if the officer still refuses to issue a new VIN... Of course since the Brake and Lamp inspection refers to a VIN number, I have to repay to have that done, unless the shop chooses to agree to just update the paperwork if I can get the CHP to issue a new VIN...

The BAR inspector told me that they would be sending something in writing, as the rejection effectively canceled the registration and all fees and taxes would be refunded. At this point I would not be surprised if that is not the case, so I guess I will call back and ask for the number of the DMV decision maker. That brings up the other odd part, I thought the construction criteria would be evaluated by BAR, but the BAR rep insisted it was DMV agent's decision. The published criteria for approval allows for a 'production chassis' as long as the result does not resemble the donor chassis, with no 'documented' restrictions on the donor chassis. Resemble is tricky as, well, it still looks like a car. I agree that you are on to the likely reason, so at the least I hope to get an objective list of criteria that it needs to meet. Perhaps I should poll the stickied owners thread to find out how many of them are in CA and have an approved SB100, it would be interesting to see if there is a pattern to any approved projects. I am a bit concerned that even making the DMV aware that others have been permitted that they will go after them, so I plan to tread lightly....

I found evidence that an appeal is possible, but I still have not received any formal notice from the state/DMV, so I technically do not have anything to appeal yet. I plan to point out that it is technically correct that the VR is a body kit, but also correct that is a complete re-body (similar to a Lamborgini body on a VW chassis), and not a bolt on ground effects kit. If that does not carry much weight I may ask (without naming names) ask how virtually identical projects have been approved in the recent past, and if I might have a copy of any criteria or guidelines that prompted the decision. I can deal with specifics but based on the limited guidance from the DMV, I should be in the clear, so they may well be using a reference that I have not found. I have to say it feels odd to be hoping to find a rejection notice in the mail each night when I get home, but I cannot move forward until I get the official notice.

And denied . I am travelling, but just got a call from the BAR rep telling me that the DMV denied the project. They claimed it was just a body kit on a factory car, which while partially true is still allowed per their regulations, so now I get to see if this decision can be appealed...

I went through a cycle where my car died every time I lifted the throttle. I was idling at 750 RPM with timing at 22 degrees. I backed the timing down to 17 degrees and no longer stalled on throttle lift. I also have a 'catch' column at 500 RPM where I bump timing up to 19 degrees. I'd be concerned that your dead time, or voltage correction are not quite right. I idle with a .95~1ms pulse with using 475cc low-z injectors., with a 13.5 AFR target I'm on the B&G code which is very limited on setting the voltage correction, so you should have an easier time tuning the correction curve on Extra

I actually knocked the BAR visit out on Wednesday. I called late on Monday for an appointment and had a 8:00AM slot on Wednesday. Other than crud directions and poor weather conspiring to have me arrive with a minute to spare, the day started well. Within 30 minutes of the 100 minute appointment the tech said he was done and it all looked good. He only had to call his boss to make sure he had not missed anything (sinking feeling goes here). After about 5 minutes on the phone he comes back an says that his boss wants a full test to comply with 1976 specs, after just telling me they don't run the dyno test for SB100 anymore... The dyno confirms I have too much mid-range timing (NOX fail) and a nice long list of visual must fix items IF Sac denies my application. I made sure they understood I was seeking classification by body style, and the tech said he thought I was still in the clear, but admitted it was a guess which way the team in Sac would decide. The B&TL inspector was not 100% sure I needed the reflectors, but decided to CHA, which I cannot blame him, and since he pointed out a couple maintenance items that I did need to handle, I was not too upset. The price was steep, and he hit me up for a retest fee, so I regret not checking out a budget shop in the other direction, but all in all I'd still recommend them if someone else wanted to follow this path.

Gotcha. My unit was pre-assembled so I did not have to go through those steps, other than installing a pull up on the inputs, which was also a 1K resistor, so I think you are on the right path.

The question is a bit unclear. The CAS does use a standard 12V connection to power the optical pickup. You also need the 1/4W K resistor connected to the output from the CAS to the MS. Since you mention the blaster coil you are likely only using the 'crank' pickup in the CAS, but if you decide to go full sequential you will also need a pull up resistor on the 'cam' output as well.

Getting closer. I completed the CHP VIN verification on Tuesday and the Brake/Light inspection today. The verification was a bit odd, the office kept insisting I did not qualify for the program and thought he was wasting time doing the verification. I just pointed to the DMV paperwork and he backed down. He did refuse to issue a new VIN number, so I called BAR and the indicated that if the DMV used my chassis VIN on the certificate of sequence, then I would be reusing the Datsun VIN. We will see if this proves to be an issue later. The brake light inspection started well enough be went down hill quickly. My headlights we close to right and since I maintained the adjuster, made perfect quickly. The brake lights failed to function, which is odd since I had checked them the night before. The hazards were also cited as a reason not to be issued a cert, as well as one leaking crush washer on a rear caliper and front wheel bearings being a tad too loose, finally they wanted side reflectors or marker lights. I suspected a fuse for the lights or the pedal switch, as it seemed unlikely that I would lose all four bulbs or both wiring pigtails at the same time. It was a fuse, which I replaced as soon as they pulled the car our of the bay, but needed to go home for the rest. The hazards were a big concern as I have already replaced both flasher relays after installing the LED front turn signals and a trailer tail light convertor. The directionals worked perfect, but the hazards did not. The did work before I took the front end apart, so I did not think it was in the switch. When I replaced the brake light fuse I also check the tail light fuse, it was fine so I reinstalled it. I mention it as on the drive home I hit the hazards and the damn things just worked. Maybe a bit of corrosion on the contacts. So not two of five fixed and I have not finished the 3 mile drive. Once home I tightened up the wheel bearings on the front and swung to the rear to replace the crush washers and realized the shop still had by lug lock adapter. Irked, but not discouraged I did the swap with the wheel still in place. Not a lot of fun, but not too bad, and I managed to do it with little fluid lose. Four of five down, and it has only been 30 minutes since I left the shop. I was wondering how many local parts stores I would have to hit before finding a set of usable reflectors when I recalled I had a set for a motorcycle project that have been collecting dust for 10~15 years. A bit of double sided sticky tape and now we have 5 of 5. I went back and they confirmed the car met all requirements and issued the cert. I'll be scheduling my BAR inspection on Monday and hope there is not a five week wait for an appointment. The final bit of gravy on the day was getting home to find the MSA hatch carpet I ordered before Christmas had arrived. It was a tight fit under the MSA speaker panel, but that should help with the road noise.

That guide is a great place to start reading. It covers the steps to convert to an internally regulated alternator, and the purpose of the connectors on the alternator so you can correctly wire up any alternator regardless of the type/shape of the plugs.

The first and most important is that you need to alter the wiring to external voltage regulator located behind the fusible links. That will be required for almost all possible alternator swap/upgrades. Note that the 70A turbo alternator is like bigfoot, many parts store clerks will claim they have it in stock, but the test sheet in the box will tell you it is a 60A unit. You are far better off searching this forum for better swaps that do not have to cost huge money- Early 90s Maxima, 88-91 Dodge Monaco are physical bolt-on units that need pulley swaps and connector wiring. If 90A to 120A won't meet you needs then you can look into modifying the lower mount and installing the larger Delco CS series.

I just went through this as well. Not a single local autoparts store carried 7/16" fuel line, carb or EFI. I ordered a foot of 7/16" EFI rated braided hose, cut it to length with a hacksaw since the internal reinforcement was metal, and promptly ripped the rubber while trying to get it to fit over the pump and tank nipples. I ended up using some 15/32" line rated for PCV/oil capture and plan to monitor it for issues. The kinking can be mitigated my cutting the hose to be just long enough to reach the base of both fittings. Even 1/2" too long and it will tend to fold. One other option is to find a local classic VW shop and ask if they carry 12mm braided line. I found that hint buried in a topic here (credit to Tony D). I did find one of those about 30 minutes away, but they had just run out and were waiting on a replacement delivery.

I had to dig a bit, http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/102891-whod-be-interested-if-we-made-a-l28et-trigger-wheel/page-7?do=findComment&comment=977997 , shows the wire color and purpose of each lead on the CAS, as well as how I installed the pull up resisters. The photo is of the CAS wiring harness after I replaced the factory connector with a weather-pak. I've been running it just like that for 18 months.