aarang

Sorry for going off track, but does anyone have the Nissan p/n for the 72deg C (160 deg F) thermostat?

Ha Ha, "No animals were harmed in the making of this movie!" I like the horse slide under the truck the best.

Does it still detonate w/ the vac advance disconnected? The ZX distributor vac advance needs to be hooked to a ported vac source as apposed to direct manifold vac if I remember correctly.

I have the S30 BRE spoiler as well. It fits the contour of the S130 pretty well. It could use some shaping were it hangs off of the sides of the hatch, and of course you have the little divot in the middle for the S30 hatch button. I still have not installed mine yet....my car still wears its original paint and I am having a hard time with the idea of drilling holes in my hatch!

Speaking from experience. When you have kids and especially when they are little, the Z will turn into a getaway to clear your head from all the mundane everyday stuff. Think of it as therapy for a stressful life. My life is dedicated to my family and job. I need the Z to keep my sanity!!

I'll admit it, I run a mix of avgas and super. It allows me to run my flat top F54/P90 turbo setup using the crappy stock ZXT EFI at 12psi with no audible detonation. Been going strong for 2000 miles with the same HG. I have found for my setup a 25% mix of avgas to super is about right and does not foul plugs even though I run two steps colder on my plugs. I could not run it straight. Changing the ratio of avgas to super had a big impact on how much fuel pressure I could run and how much I had to adjust the AFM to get it to run right. It still is not perfect, mainly because of the EFI system, but it is a good safety measure for me. I am an aircraft mechanic, so getting a supply is easy for me. You will have a coating of lead inside the exhaust after using it for a while. 100LL still has alot of lead in it!!

I've had a head gasket leak before on the outside on cyl #6 just aft of the heater line outlet. The water would mostly run down on top of the transmission. It doesn't take a very large leak to make your coolant level drop.

It took me all of three minutes to get used to my aluminum flywheel and new clutch while driving on the street. As far as the heavier flywheel being better for a turbo... there are a few old threads that have debated that!

Put in the aluminum one. I regretted not doing it sooner in my heavier ZX turbo. No problems on the street. Makes the car seem more responsive.

I have been riding street bikes for a long time. I have owned alot of different old standard and sport bikes. My favorite bike of them all is the SV650 which I still have. From a beginner to an experienced rider, the SV is a fantastic bike to have IMHO. They are dirt cheap used as well. Your old Suzuki is a good bike, but I found parts for the older Japanese bikes are getting harder and more expensive to find ( just like a Z!) Don't get too caught up in what you eventually want. I have seen lots of beginners get brand new GXSRs or Ninjas just to wreck them within a week.

Looks like a non-Supra Celica

Seems like the little baby throws a tantrum when he can't have his own way or get what he wants. Should have been taken care of when he was three. Alot of parents don't parent anymore, and this is the result. I hope his friends see the videos and see how pathetic it is.

My Spec stage II let up after 1600 miles with only a few days of track use and mostly being driven on the street. It was properly installed with a resurfaced stock flywheel. I would not get another. I will say that the pedal pressure was less than a stock turbo clutch, which was nice. I now run a Fidanza flywheel with an ACT HD PP and street disk. Pedal pressure is higher than the stock clutch, but not much. I could not be happier with this setup. The engagement at first was down by the floor, but after 500 miles it is in the middle, more or less. No grabbiness, really smooth engagement and easy to drive on the street. I have not taken it to the track, yet. It is rated for 400ft lbs which is plenty for me. My car is only around 270ft lbs. I would definitely recommend this clutch/flywheel setup. Aaron

What kind of BOV is it? The 280ZXT EFI does not like any unmetered air after the AFM. If your BOV is vented to atmosphere and open at idle, which alot are, Then it will run and idle like crap. Try blocking off the bov and see how it runs.

Funny, in three of the pictures the car is sky blue. In the other it is crystal blue. Must have been painted for the pictures??!!

I had a Spec stage II, couldn't hold a measly 250ft lbs after 1600 miles. I now have an ACT street disk and HD pressure plate and now life is good.

Thanks guys..... I found one local.

I just need a 280ZXT downpipe so I can cut off the flange and make my own downpipe on the cheap. Doesn't need to be pretty, but needs to be cheap!! $20 sound resonable? I can pay for shipping. Thanks

Just wondering about the water pump you are using, is it the stamped steel aftermarket impeller type or the Nissan cast impeller style. I had cooling issues at low speeds until I bought a genuine Nissan water pump ( cast impeller) and a genuine Nissan thermostat. I have dual 12" electric fans with a shroud and an intercooler that is the same size as the radiator (stock radiator) and my temps never go over 185 deg now, even when we had 105 deg temps here in Portland a while back. Aaron

You need both the manual rack and the crossmember. They usually come from the 79-81 'deluxe' models. It is a direct bolt in, no fabbing required.

It's time to change out the stock 25 yr old bushings. It is really not that hard to do, just time consuming. If money is tight, you don't need to do it all at once. I would do the front first. Makes a NIGHT AND DAY difference. It certainly did on my car. Aaron

He has more dollars than sense!

Hey Daniel13BRX7, are those the 17x8.5 +4 Rotas? Did you use spacers for the front? I tried that size on my ZX and they would hit the strut. I didn't want to use spacers so I got the 17x7.5 +4 for the front on my car and the 8.5's for the back.

Personally I wouldn't use it for I/C tubing. I am an aircraft mechanic and that tubing comes in many different forms. It usually ends up coming apart ( especially when it has a liner) when exposed to fuel/ oil. It is rated for pressure in most cases, but it will definitely start coming apart when exposed to vacuum in a larger size like 2.5", smaller sizes not so much. It would be OK to use it to couple I/C pipes together. Also, I would be leary of the quality control of a consumer rated product as compared to aircraft grade which is much more $$$.

Turn the flywheel around?? How does that work? Where would the clutch go?.... The auto spacer plate looks like the end of the crank itself. You will have to remove the tranny and flywheel to see if is on there.