socorob

That's clean looking. Did the 7/8'' make a big difference?

Are they talking about rivets, which may be aluminum, or rivnuts?

A little of both. My car gets a little squirrelly on this one road here where the road has depressions where the tires have sank the road a little, but the center and edges are higher. Since I will be getting the longer tie rods with spacers from TTT and will have to take some things apart and realign it, I thought it would be a good time to address that if needed. Right now I can only get just over 2 degrees of camber and I run out of tie rod, that why I want to get the longer ones, plus he said he has spacers to help get them more in line. My control arms are barely angles down, maybe just a few degrees. My think was is would be good to get some angle back to the arms for some camber gain, but not sure if I am looking at this correctly or not. I was thinking something like this picture from arizona z.

What other ways do you control bumpsteer? Is one of the ways by spacing the outer tie rod like this?

Do you know if anyone has had any problems with the control arm bolt walking when the crossmember was slotted?

So does the steering knuckle look like it would need to be shorter or longer?

I have seen the point be moved up an inch. Is that the most ideal place, or if it was moved outboard slightly also, would it help any by widening the track and adding some negative camber?

So you wont have to watch the video.

https://youtu.be/eWXiRxxiqNM This is an old video and at 1:13 you can see they used heims for the outer tie rods, the control arm, and tc rod. 3 rods cover everything. looks like they use a rod end instead of a balljoint too.

what does their rebuild comprise of?

22478 lower and 21588 upper are some gates numbers I found, but double check them.

There's another thread on here with the part numbers. That's the exact setup I have and I got my part numbers from that thread.

If I didn't get a pullout, I would try to go to one of the newer tremecs that go behind the newer LS's. I haven't driven one personally but several people say they shift way better. The reason they are so much, is Americans haven't been too much of sports car people in the past. They all want automatics in their cars, so there's not as many T56s floating around as they should be. How much difference is the Mustang version of the T56 than the GM version?

So does TTT, but it's the inner tie rod that's not so easy to find. Plus everything else inside the rack is probably unobtainable

That was a great movie. At ZCON they rented out a theater and showed it. Very cool.

I think the 90-92 Q45s are the big ones. They changed somewhat after that (I had both side by side at the JY a few years ago, but can't remember exactly what the differences were. The early Q45 halfshafts are 1/8" or so thicker than the 300/s13 R200 halfshafts also. When I was buidling my car, I wasn't sure if I wanted to go 5 lug or 4, so I pulled one setup of each kind since the complete unit with brakes were only $60 each from the JY. The early Q45 is a heavier unit.

I traded my stock 78 wheels along with some other parts for my paint job, but in the meantime he sold his Z, but still has the wheels in Mandeville. I could put you in touch with him if you're looking for some to pick up locally.

That's the difference between a 1960s designed engine vs a 1990s designed engine.

I have the normal TTT control arms. I like the way you can adjust the tc rod connection point on these. It looks like it may let you get slightly more steering angle?

Think they would fit in a 280z with the cat hump?

What are the differences between the early and later revisions?

I think the q45 is an r200 that uses the r230 output shafts. It may use the r230 input shaft too. The TTT mustache bar for the early q45 r200 is the same one for the r230. My friends TTT mustache bar for an r200 from a 300z/240sx is slightly different from mine, with a different part number on it.

When I was still building my car a guy stopped by to see it and he did 3d aluminum printing. The company he worked for made parts for nasa. He said the stuff they mainly made using the 3d printing was too intricate to machine and casting wasn't strong enough to use for the parts.

At 170mph, was everything shaking, or was it relatively smooth?

How strong are the aluminum 3d prints? Would that be sufficiently strong enough for a bellhousing?