socorob

I read on another forum an interior engineer from gm I think said not to glue, the more you decouple the interior from the exterior, the quieter it will be.

NICE! I'm sure you're in the top .5% of fastest z driving out there.

http://www.mingdom.com/Cars/Motorsports/SCCA-Track-Night-NOLA-5615/i-S7dwhHr/A http://www.mingdom.com/Cars/Motorsports/SCCA-Track-Night-NOLA-5615/i-KHFZ8FP/A http://www.mingdom.com/Cars/Motorsports/SCCA-Track-Night-NOLA-5615/ I am running a stock LS1, T56. I have the body stitch welded from wheel well to wheel well, with an angle brace welded in going from near the front strut top down to in front of the bottom of the door inside the fender. In the pictures above, you can get an idea of the amount of lean the car is getting in the turns. This was with used clicks, -1.4 camber in front, -.9 in the rear, I think 4 degrees caster. I was staying behind an MR2 that stayed really flat in the curves. We were running about the same lap times, but he would pull away from me in the turns, and I would catch him on the straights. I had bought a rear bar, but ended up sending it back before I even opened it after reading the suspension FAQs. Seems like a lot of people there use 1", but their cars are probably much lighter than mine.

My car is a 78 with full interior. I have the plates to stiffen up the sway bar area from bad dog welded to the chassis. I have done 2 track days and an autox so far this year, and the few pictures I've seen of my car in the turns, and what it feels like from inside the car, shows I am getting a ton of body roll. I have the stock bar up front and no rear bar. I have konis all around with 300 springs in front and 250 rear. I was looking at upping the front bar to help with the body lean, but not sure whether to go with 1 inch Addco or 1 1/8 inch st front bar. There's a chart in the black dragon catalog that shows the percentage of how stiff each bar is over stock and shows the 1 1/8 bar to be a lot stiffer than the 1". I don't want to go too big and have the car act more like a solid front axle. I'm not even sure with these bars if that's even an issue. Is one size recommended over the other, or is bigger better? I've read in the suspension faq and it seems a lot of people use the 1", but those are on much lighter cars than mine. What would be the better choice for a heavyweight 280?

175 mph in a Z must feel like 200!

I would be more excited if they came out with a 200hp car that got 70 mpg.

The simplest route will be jci. I don't think you have to remove the dash for that, but it only blows as hard as the Datsun ac ever did. The vintage air is great but it's a lot of work. I'm not sure if you go with the johns cars compressor. and use the newer design components up front from ac solutions, if that would make the Datsun AC a little colder or not. The guy from vintage air told me the new stuff up front is way more efficient than the old stuff was. so you get better cooling.

Did these fit into the stock buckets?

I used padded dash filler and flextex. Worked well.

I got msa ones but they fit horribly. My friend said he was replacing the boots on his sons acuras rack and he said those were a perfect fit.

Good, saves me work and time.

Yeah thanks for those. My problem is one of the metal boots keeps pushing off spark plug 5 and it starts running like crap. And I have another wire that the insulation is split on, so since I need to replace them, I may as well try to get better ones. Are you going to track night on the 3rd?

Thanks! I think I may have an opportunity to use a lift for the next 2 days, so I would like to use that time wisely to swap my heavier springs to the front. and get my ride height and alignment set as close as possible. Then I will try to run down some scales to corner balance the car.

I have been looking at the MSD wires online and saw there were 2 boots. According to the ebay ad, black boots are regular and red boots are hi temp? http://www.ebay.com/itm/MSD-Ignition-32819-32813-spark-plug-wire-set-LS1-LS2-LS3-LS6-LS7-LS9-/151012469582?hash=item23290b6b4e&vxp=mtr Look at the 3rd picture.

I hope I make it too. I am using 5 lugs, but appreciate the offer. If I go, I probably won't do any of the motorsports events because I will have to be able to drive the car there AND back, and I don't have a trailer.

Thanks. Self-made fiberglass hell?

When setting ride height, is it good practice to set it by using a certain control arm angle, by looks, or by _____ for a street / occasional autox, track day car? When I see pictures of Zs, ride heights seem to be all over the place. Is it an aesthetic issue mostly or do you want some certain angle down of the control arms to give a little camber gain?

My wifes suv had thIs problem and it ended up being the tensioner bearing. Napa will sell you just the bearing for a couple bucks if you have a way to press it out. Take the belt off and spin all the pulleys as hard as you can and see if any seems louder than the others.

Did y'all use the metal boots the stock ones had on the msd wires?

any particular brand seem to hold up and not hit the header as much as a stock set?

Anyone know what would be the minimum safe amount? Also does anyone have a rack laying around that they can measure the total length of the threads without the outer tie rods on? Maybe the better question would be what is the maximum amount of exposed threads that's safe? I'm trying to put some more camber in the front and caster, and it seems there's an awful lot of thread showing.

My friend passed by where the new terminator movie was being filmed on his way to work every day and said for awhile they had 2 identical ZXs out there.

Can you call cable x directly?

Fire that guy!

How did a wheel fall off?