socorob

I used padded dash filler and flextex. Worked well.

I got msa ones but they fit horribly. My friend said he was replacing the boots on his sons acuras rack and he said those were a perfect fit.

Good, saves me work and time.

Yeah thanks for those. My problem is one of the metal boots keeps pushing off spark plug 5 and it starts running like crap. And I have another wire that the insulation is split on, so since I need to replace them, I may as well try to get better ones. Are you going to track night on the 3rd?

Thanks! I think I may have an opportunity to use a lift for the next 2 days, so I would like to use that time wisely to swap my heavier springs to the front. and get my ride height and alignment set as close as possible. Then I will try to run down some scales to corner balance the car.

I have been looking at the MSD wires online and saw there were 2 boots. According to the ebay ad, black boots are regular and red boots are hi temp? http://www.ebay.com/itm/MSD-Ignition-32819-32813-spark-plug-wire-set-LS1-LS2-LS3-LS6-LS7-LS9-/151012469582?hash=item23290b6b4e&vxp=mtr Look at the 3rd picture.

I hope I make it too. I am using 5 lugs, but appreciate the offer. If I go, I probably won't do any of the motorsports events because I will have to be able to drive the car there AND back, and I don't have a trailer.

Thanks. Self-made fiberglass hell?

When setting ride height, is it good practice to set it by using a certain control arm angle, by looks, or by _____ for a street / occasional autox, track day car? When I see pictures of Zs, ride heights seem to be all over the place. Is it an aesthetic issue mostly or do you want some certain angle down of the control arms to give a little camber gain?

My wifes suv had thIs problem and it ended up being the tensioner bearing. Napa will sell you just the bearing for a couple bucks if you have a way to press it out. Take the belt off and spin all the pulleys as hard as you can and see if any seems louder than the others.

Did y'all use the metal boots the stock ones had on the msd wires?

any particular brand seem to hold up and not hit the header as much as a stock set?

Anyone know what would be the minimum safe amount? Also does anyone have a rack laying around that they can measure the total length of the threads without the outer tie rods on? Maybe the better question would be what is the maximum amount of exposed threads that's safe? I'm trying to put some more camber in the front and caster, and it seems there's an awful lot of thread showing.

My friend passed by where the new terminator movie was being filmed on his way to work every day and said for awhile they had 2 identical ZXs out there.

Can you call cable x directly?

Fire that guy!

How did a wheel fall off?

Step on is a little exaggeration. The weight is spread more equally across the whole thing, but can have a lot of pressure pushing down.

Supposedly you should be able to stand on a splitter without it breaking. If it generates 200 pounds of downforce at speed then it should be able to support 200 pounds across it. Just some food for thought before you go dragging something down the road.

And my front sway bar is stock 280.

I have a 78 280z with bad dog rails, and I put a pipe brace from the bottom of the door jamb angles up to near where the struts mount (outside inner fender I guess you would call it). I also stitch welded everything from strut tower to strut tower. Think that would be stiff enough for 300# up front, if not would a triangular strut bar help? I'm new to this, so mainly trying to find a starting point then experiment from there.

Thanks. I was trying to cut the center of the Esses if that makes sense because it felt faster, but the last one where I spun out had a different radius and would catch me out sometimes. These big rivals seem to have held up decently compared to some of the others tires out there.

I actually just got the sway bar in the mail today, but thinking about sending it back before I even open it. With the konis on full soft with 250f/300r, its fairly comfortable on the street. If I send the bar back, I was think about leaving the back 300 and swapping the bar for 350 fronts, but not sure how stiff that would be for the street. Watching some videos from the track, I was getting some body roll, with the konis on full hard all the way around. It seemed like the handling was fairly neutral as far as I could tell. I think I need to put some more negative camber and some more caster in though, as I'm only around -1.5 and 3.5 respectively. I only have 245 width tires so I need to try to get all the help elsewhere I can. The next track night is 3 weeks away, so I am going to try to improve what I can before then.

Thanks, just did my 1st track day 2 weeks ago, and want to try to make some improvements by the time the next one comes around in a few weeks.

I've been reading the suspension faq for a few days now. I have 300 and 250 pound springs and a st rear sway bar. Would putting the 300 in The front, the 250 in the rear and put on the rear sway bar be the best setup using the parts I have? This is what I seemed to walk away with from the suspension faq. Can any of the experts let me know if this would be the best route using what I have?