socorob

https://youtu.be/OTAXykiqsGs Saw this video today with a t56 magnum with a gaited shifter in a Jag. Probably too big to fit the Datsun console, but still cool.

I got the ones from TTT and they are too short in the back for my 280. I've been meaning to call him to see what can be done. It may be a little hard to tell since the car was on skates when I took the picture. but this is just with the springs hand tightened with no preload. I had to crank about as much preload as I possibly could in the rear, and the front has an inch or 2 of slack in the spring when I jack up the car. and I used 240 insulators in the front and 280 in the rear. It still sits lower in the back. post 88.

American collectors. They have by mileage policies. I don't know if Haggerty changed, but when I had them, the agent told me I could drive my car whenever. When I read the actual policy that was signed, it clearly stated you could only drive it to car events,car shops, etc. No going to dinner, the store,work, etc. Read your policy carefully. I don't know how hard they actually enforce that, but it gives them a way out if needed.

I mounted my 240 airdam from msa (which is terrible quality by the way) onto my 280 behind the headlights. I had to make the 2 notches as you have marked out in tape to fit down by the horns. The top has just barely enough to have bolts go through them...barely. Also where the turn signals are inset, the msa mold has 1 side thats angled on the back that fits ok, and the other side was square and has a big gap. I tried to send the POS back, but they wanted to charge me a restocking fee plus shipping back would have cost a lot, so I was stuck with it. The guy from there didnt seem to care that he sells an inferior product. I asked if they could put in the description that it is rough and needs a lot of work to make right. If I would have had my expectations properly set going in, then I probably wouldn't have been so disappointed in the ill fitting junk I received.

A cool thing my friends brother did with his 2 post lift was build a table that was the width of the lift, and fit over the legs to sort of lock it in. Now he has a big table he can lay flat against the wall when not in use, and when he needs it, he uses it for a big table for crawfish boils, and an adjustable height work table when he needs that. Good place to spray paint small parts, etc.

Also on their home page is a 25% off coupon for tomorrow, so that sweetens it a little more.

http://www.harborfreight.com/1100-lb-high-lift-transmission-jack-33615.html My dad has the old version of this that doesn't have the foot pump, which makes it annoying. For the price and how much you will probably use it for home use, its perfectly adequate. His is pretty old and still works fine.

I used the factory T56 lower boot.

If it's just mounted to the body by the same 4 bolts as most short nose mounts are, then it won't be much better. You need something to connect under the crossmember or something else substantial.

thanks

Those are nice. They appear a little high though. How tall are you and how much is left between your head and the roof?

I may be. The little speakers in the rear are almost unhearable over the exhaust.

Aren't the early and late 280's a little different down there?

It would be nice to open the doors some more. I can barely squeeze in if the door is touching the post. The lift I use had a cylinder blow out on it with a ford diesel 4 door duallie on it. It was on the stops so the truck didn't go anywhere. but the cylinder was in a bind so they weren't able to get it out. They had to jack the truck up about an inch or 2 so they could get the cylinder out. That's scary when such a big truck is already 6 feet off the ground. Needless to say, they redid both cylinders once they were able to get a new cylinder in and get the truck down.

Someone I know has a 2 and 4 post drive on lift. All he ever uses the 4 post for now is for vertical car storage. He said it's too hard to work on the cars on it, so he just uses it to gain floor space.

I lift mine on the bad dog rails. I extended the back of them to tie into the structure that's between the rear shock towers under the car. The lift I use has these little rubber disks that are about an inch or so thick, and look like hockey pucks. I lift our honda on the seam under the rockers using those in between and they haven't bent yet, but I've only had that car on the lift 4 or 5 times. My Z stayed on it for sometimes weeks at a time on the bad dog rails with no issues. Is there a reason you're not centering the car fore and aft with the posts?

What transmission?

The ace hardware here sells rubber rivnuts, but you still need to paint the inner fender after cutting and welding.

Does the alignment one go high enough to park another car under?

You should post what year you have since earlier years have more room than later, since they don't have the cat hump. Also your height. I'm 6'1, and with miata seats with lowered brackets, my helmet clears the roof by an inch or so. Some people put seats in higher and lose headroom, so that may or may not be an issue for you.

Mine fell apart when I tried to take it out, so I sprayed a couple coats of lizard skin heat and sound on both sides of the firewall while the engine was out. Don't notice any heat coming through, so I think it works well.

https://youtu.be/htW_dQ_fhxk All you need is a nut(a flange nut with serrations to help keep the rivnut from spinning is best), and a grade 8 bolt. Get the flange nut a size or 2 down from the size bolts you want to use. Drill the threads out of the flange nut so the bolts will fit through snugly. Using a flange nut lets you push down tight with an end wrench, and use a drill to turn the bolt to suck it down. Basically what this guy has in the video but replace that long threaded hex piece with a flange nut you drill out. Cheap, easy and works great.

Another question I have, which I'm not sure if this would vary between cars with different control arm lengths, is ...... is there an optimal angle the lca should angle down from horizontal, or a useful range? I know some point is too much and some point is not enough, but what would that range be? And on the subject of length, is it best to keep the front track width within a certain distance compared to stock?

My manual tool came with an allen head bolt to crank it down with. I saw a lot of people on youtube using a cordless drill, so I replaced the allen head with a grade 8 bolt on my standard one and 12.9 on the metric one and run them down with a cordless drill. It crushes them down quickly. GO to 21:30 and you can see what I mean. https://youtu.be/bK2-A-ou0RM

I want to do this for 2 reasons. First, to help improve camber gain. Right now my lca is almost level, so I don't think I'm getting the full potential of front grip. The second is some worn roads here. The valleys were made by trucks and suv's, which have a much wider track than me. My car is very jittery when driving on it with one wheel in the depression and another on top. It goes all over the place. My tie rods and my lca's are at very different angles. You can tell just by looking at them that they are off a bunch and things won't be moving in the Same plane as everything goes up and down.