socorob

I just did my 1st autocross with the Z and with my konis set to full soft I had more understeer. That's with the heavier springs in the rear.

Thanks John! So for a Z with an LS swap, with plans for lots of autox and 1-3 track days a year, would it be better for me to move my heavier springs from the rear to the front?

Did it feel like you were going ludicrous speed?

I used the charge light to get the alternator all excited. You just have to make sure its an incandescent bulb and not an LED. If it's an LED you will need to wire a resistor inline. I think I removed the tach and AC wires as I went with a vintage air system. What color is the coil wire?

I had the long speed bleeder hose on mine. I just had it barely cracked and had the end of it higher than the master cylinder. It bled itself.

I installed mine and filled it bit didn't get around to bleeding it for about 2 weeks. I guess it gravity bl3d itself in that time, because it was bled when I went to bleed it.

So it's not 25-1.25? Is the 240 tie rod a different size than the 280?

You can't leave ospho puddle or it turns into some black stuff that can get as hard as a rock.

I have a little key chain hd camera but forgot to bring it with me. It was a very last minute decision so in a rush out the door I left it behind.

Yeah, its been about 3 years since I last got to do one. Track night America is going to be here on May 6, so gonna try to make that too.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/112265495@N06/sets/72157652190173432/page2/ Things finally aligned so I could make my 1st autox with the Z. I did terrible but had fun, Theres pictures of the Z on pages 2-4 if anyone is interested.

Thank the politicians who put it into law back in 2000.

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/67842-s30-inner-rack-ends-thread-size/ If the size is right in that post, moog sells a universal inner tie rod with same sizes. The rod may be longer or shorter though. I looked online and found them for $20 a pair. You would have the find an outer tie rod with standard size threads, and you may have to shorten the inner rod, or it may be too short. Once my friend gets around to stripping down his parts car to scrap the body, we were thinking about trying is out. Pretty much what this guy did. https://youtu.be/ERy0MlamKOA

I put a number 6 or 8 (can't remember which size) stainless washer in the pivot part and now it tightens up fine. I had the same problem before with my californians. I got the convex lenses which help. While the view isn't good by any means, it's much better than the stock 280z mirrors, plus I have a passenger mirror now also. These cars are just hard to find any mirrors that work. I pushed them as far forward as I possibly could on the door, so they are at a better viewing angle, which I think is a must, as the Z mirrors were too far back. I had the same problem on my last car which was an old roadster, and ended up using Yamaha motorcycle mirrors.

And let us know how comfortable they are on long drives.

The drivers side works great, but the passenger side has light contact with the window. I'm not sure if its because of the angle it sits or if the arm I got has a bad spring. I haven't got around to swapping them to see if it makes a difference.

Can the gears be swapped from the pathfinder case into the q45 case?

The moog site lists one with the correct size, for a mustang 2. If there's a correct sized outer to go with that you wouldn't have to adapt anything, as there's tons of stuff based off mustang 2 front suspension in the aftermarket.

http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/Universal_Inner_Tie_Rods.asp I was looking for this as well to see if moog had a universal inner tie rod that would fit in case I need to replace mine in the future. Noone seems to have the Datsun specific one available.

I think he said it was a quicktime bellhousing.

A guy on ls1tech used a ford t56 behind an LS1 using a bellhousing from hanlon motorsports. Not sure if the shifter comes out in the same spot as the fbody, but could be another option.

On my future to do list is to hook my vapor canister to the LS1 solenoid and wire in a switch to open it every once in a while.

i used an 04 gto transmission. You just have to use the fbody shifter and shifter cup. Or an mgw shifter with fbody shifter cup.

Well, Johns cars sent me the driveshaft and I have barely over 1000 miles on the car since I got it running, so I hope it's not that.

So is your diff and trans parallel with 2 degrees of angle on both sides to the driveshaft? I'm awaiting the lift to free up so I can check all this out. I will check the u join phasing and angles. Even if they're right I'm still tempted to pull off the shaft and bring it to a local ship to verify the balance. I want to go to zcon but couldn't stand the ride up there as it is.