socorob

I have a 78 280z with bad dog rails, and I put a pipe brace from the bottom of the door jamb angles up to near where the struts mount (outside inner fender I guess you would call it). I also stitch welded everything from strut tower to strut tower. Think that would be stiff enough for 300# up front, if not would a triangular strut bar help? I'm new to this, so mainly trying to find a starting point then experiment from there.

Thanks. I was trying to cut the center of the Esses if that makes sense because it felt faster, but the last one where I spun out had a different radius and would catch me out sometimes. These big rivals seem to have held up decently compared to some of the others tires out there.

I actually just got the sway bar in the mail today, but thinking about sending it back before I even open it. With the konis on full soft with 250f/300r, its fairly comfortable on the street. If I send the bar back, I was think about leaving the back 300 and swapping the bar for 350 fronts, but not sure how stiff that would be for the street. Watching some videos from the track, I was getting some body roll, with the konis on full hard all the way around. It seemed like the handling was fairly neutral as far as I could tell. I think I need to put some more negative camber and some more caster in though, as I'm only around -1.5 and 3.5 respectively. I only have 245 width tires so I need to try to get all the help elsewhere I can. The next track night is 3 weeks away, so I am going to try to improve what I can before then.

Thanks, just did my 1st track day 2 weeks ago, and want to try to make some improvements by the time the next one comes around in a few weeks.

I've been reading the suspension faq for a few days now. I have 300 and 250 pound springs and a st rear sway bar. Would putting the 300 in The front, the 250 in the rear and put on the rear sway bar be the best setup using the parts I have? This is what I seemed to walk away with from the suspension faq. Can any of the experts let me know if this would be the best route using what I have?

They make the one with the heim only on the inbound end.

I sprayed mine with lizard skin and it made a huge difference with the heat And sound.

I got the mgw and clocked it at 6 o clock to move the shifter back. If you order it, ask them to clock it for you because they use an allen head bolt with red locktite and it was very hard to get off to change.

I found a t56 6 speed boot from a camaro or firebird in the junkyard. They are hard to find. Maybe try ebay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Camaro-Firebird-T56-6-Speed-Manual-Lower-Shifter-Boot-New-/311349689389?hash=item487de33c2d&vxp=mtr

Thanks. I'm looking around for another set of these wheels right now to be able to do just that.

street tires. bf goodrich rivals, 245s.

I got overspray on my chrome exhaust tip and had to use fine steel wool plus whatever thinner you use to clean the paint gun with for that paint. Oh yeah, and tons of elbow grease. If it's been on a long time you may have to use stripper. Chances are the chrome was in bad shape anyway if it was painted over.

This is the one I spun out on just after 10 minutes in. https://youtu.be/iAz3KXl2IfA

It's only done it 4-5 times since December and in about 2000 miles. I'll try the fluid thing. It did look a little dirty when I checked it before the event.

First off I'm not sure if it's my clutch or throw out bearing that's my issue. Once in a while on a hard high RPM shift, it is like the clutch went out. It will sit there and I can Rev it in gear and it's like I have the clutch pedal pushed in when i don't. . I sit there for just a couple seconds and then it works fine again and won't happen again for a few weeks. I got my engine and t56 pullout all together with 42,000 miles on it, and only separated the 2 to put a speed bleeder cable on it. I've only put about 2k on the car since I got it running. I don't know if this is a symt ok m of the slave cylinder going out or clutch or throw out bearing. If I do have to rear it apart, I will replace everything so I won't have to worry about it for a while. Is it possible to drop just the trans with Johns cars mounts without pulling the engine? And what's a good streetable performance clutch? This car is mainly a street car that will see only a couple events a year maybe.

This was put on by SCCA called http://www.tracknightinamerica.com/events It ended up having 2 paced lap sessions that were 20 min + and 3 lapping sessions 20 minutes +. They are doing it at tracks all around the country. The only downside to it for me is its on a weeknight and starts at 3. The track is a little over an hour drive from home, so I had to take a day off work to be able to go. I think I will start looking for another set of cheap wheels to put slicks on because 245s aren't cutting it compared to all the other cars out there with wider tires.

I hit about 125 or so a few times on the long straight and 100 in a few other places. I spun out around 70 and got black flagged once. After that my testes shrank a little and I didn't get as fast.In this video I pop in around 2:30 then back in the end. https://youtu.be/Zo2PNVbMgfkm

This was the 1st parade lap.<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/fFBhfKyg5Nk" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Went to track night in America at my local track, what a blast! My first road course event. The car felt fairly neutral as far as what I believe neutral to be. It was over an hour and a half of seat time. It was nice instead of then10 minutes of autox seat time. I found this video that a car in front of me with a rearward facing camera took. I will post videos as I get them uploaded or find others with my car. Please feel free to critique my driving, I need all the pointers I can get. https://youtu.be/7mftA4W9Gik

TTT'S new triangular strut bar looks nice too.

It's hard to find a shop around here to do a proper alignment! I called about 5 shops with my last car trying to find one that would put it as close to my specs as possible. They all told me flat out no, they just get it in the green on the machine. Ended up having to go to a shop 2 towns over to get it done. Chances pf me finding a place around here to do anything specialized is very low. Do you put your konis on full hard when you did a road course? I have no idea what to use for a starting point.

Probably going to my 1st track night tomorrow (if it doesn't rain), so I started checking everything I could and found the drivers front spindle nut was slightly loose. I checked them all twice when I first put it all together so not sure how that happened. That took a lot of the vibration out. Now all I'm left with is a slight vibration above 80. Do y'all think if the alignment is off that it could cause a little vibration?

I just did my 1st autocross with the Z and with my konis set to full soft I had more understeer. That's with the heavier springs in the rear.

Thanks John! So for a Z with an LS swap, with plans for lots of autox and 1-3 track days a year, would it be better for me to move my heavier springs from the rear to the front?

Did it feel like you were going ludicrous speed?