socorob

That's factory

Mine was tight with a go ls1. You had to remove the dipstick and install it and the headers simultaneously.

Simplicity.

The JCI works and puts the motor in a decent place, but you're limited to shortie headers.

Vitaloni Californians with convex lenses.

Forgot to attach the relay wiring.

This may have been done already, but I couldn't find any info. I wanted to put in a power antenna with manual operation being able to use the stock Z switch. I used a Harada MQ1 antenna and 2 SPDT relays. Here's the wiring diagram if anyone is interested. It uses all existing wires from the harness without needing to run any more wires to the back of the car. When you're looking at the plug that's inside the fender by the rear marker light, the bottom sideways connection is ground, the right is up and the left is down.

Hit the send button too doom but here they are. These are 2 driver side wiper arms. They sit a little high at the hinge setting. Gonna keep trying to find something that fits a little better but will probably use these until then dice they're already on.

I installed them finally. Here are the pics with and without the spoilers.

I used a vintage air for AC and heat but got 90 degree bulkhead fittings to go through the firewall.

Halfway through redoing my Z I took a break to clean and organize the shop. My wife was sweet enough to help. Well before I realized what she was doing, she had already taken all the screws I had separated for different parts of the car and dumped them into 1 big box. So reassembling the car has been even more of a challenge. I'm down to just putting the interior back in and was wondering if anyone had any pictures of the screws that hold the tail light cover plastic on and the 2 side panels on. Also the screws for the glove box liner. I have a 78 if that makes a difference. Thanks.

Maybe if it wasn't so far in the other direction. How far are you from Memphis?

If we all go we should caravan.

Once I drive mine around for 3-4 weeks and no problems pop up, then I will register for ZCON. I have to be able to drive it there AND back.

http://www.urethanesupply.com/Other-Fillers-1/Padded-Dash-Filler/ I used this and its very flexible. I can push in on the repair sections 1/8" or so and it doesn't crack. The only problem I had was it looked perfect after I did it. A few days later I thought I would spray some SEM vinyl paint on the whole dash just to give it extra UV protection. I had read on another forum to prime it first if you did that, but I didn't. it made the repaired areas swell up about 1/8".

Not sure if the 75 door will work on the 240. Check it out carefully before you bother pulling it. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I think they changed the doors 3 times over the years.

Thanks. IT's been a ton of work but definitely worth it.

I finally got a windshield and had the car buffed. Now to put it back together and start driving this thing again. The light at the end of the 2 year tunnel is finally in front of me.

Mine should be legally road worthy again in a few weeks or less, depending on how much time I get to be able to put it all back together.

22 through head of island and Killian is a nice curvy road to get there. Bayou Paul road not far from there is very curvy, so it would give me an excuse to go there, and pass By the show between the 2

Maybe so, is that in Gonzales?

MY 78 got a ton of heat from the tunnel. WHEN you pulled back the carpet it was actually bubbling the tar because it was so hot. THE resonator seemed to be a little clogged up with rust. I sprayed a few coats of lizard skin heat insulation on both sides and it made a big difference.

Thanks. It looked like it was touching in some of the photos.

Does it scratch the sides of the car when you open/close the hatch, or from any vibration when driving?

Also drill a small hole at the end of the crack to relieve it.