socorob

And let us know how comfortable they are on long drives.

The drivers side works great, but the passenger side has light contact with the window. I'm not sure if its because of the angle it sits or if the arm I got has a bad spring. I haven't got around to swapping them to see if it makes a difference.

Can the gears be swapped from the pathfinder case into the q45 case?

The moog site lists one with the correct size, for a mustang 2. If there's a correct sized outer to go with that you wouldn't have to adapt anything, as there's tons of stuff based off mustang 2 front suspension in the aftermarket.

http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/Universal_Inner_Tie_Rods.asp I was looking for this as well to see if moog had a universal inner tie rod that would fit in case I need to replace mine in the future. Noone seems to have the Datsun specific one available.

I think he said it was a quicktime bellhousing.

A guy on ls1tech used a ford t56 behind an LS1 using a bellhousing from hanlon motorsports. Not sure if the shifter comes out in the same spot as the fbody, but could be another option.

On my future to do list is to hook my vapor canister to the LS1 solenoid and wire in a switch to open it every once in a while.

i used an 04 gto transmission. You just have to use the fbody shifter and shifter cup. Or an mgw shifter with fbody shifter cup.

Well, Johns cars sent me the driveshaft and I have barely over 1000 miles on the car since I got it running, so I hope it's not that.

So is your diff and trans parallel with 2 degrees of angle on both sides to the driveshaft? I'm awaiting the lift to free up so I can check all this out. I will check the u join phasing and angles. Even if they're right I'm still tempted to pull off the shaft and bring it to a local ship to verify the balance. I want to go to zcon but couldn't stand the ride up there as it is.

That car is clean!

Looking for a faceplate for the original radio that has the vertical Antenna slot on the right side (up and down).

i guess I will start calling around to see if anyone does that in these parts. Now if you get it balanced like that, and you remove the wheel, do you have to make sure it goes back on in the same position since its balancing everything? And the brake rotor also?

The weights are inside of the wheels, stick on. I think it does it on acceleration and deceleration at that speed, under load, clutch in, or in neutral.

Thanks for the links and suggestions. I haven't even heard of a road force balancer, but I will check around. These are used wheels with new 200 Treadwear tires (rivals). I guess I will start with the driveline angle and go on from there. I'm just worried I'm going to have to end up sending every rotating piece out to be checked for balance. This is the 1st car I've had that had this problem, so not sure what the best plan of attack should be

How did you find out the rotor was warped? Just spun it and checked for runout?

Its 80 and up. I'm not sure how up it goes because I didn't get too too high over 80, but it still was there, the same amount. It didn't get worse or better. The wheels are from a G 35 that someone gave me. They didn't seem to have any noticeable bends, dents or scratches on them, but I guess you never know. Thanks Kiyet, but I have 5 lug wheels, so not sure if they would work.

I went on a few hours car drive today with a group of about 20 cars. Only 1 other Datsun , which is pictured below, some kind of special crazy high hp car. Anyway the vibration was irritating my wife which in turn made to be sure to REALLY irritate me about the car shaking, so I really need to try to solve this.

First thing is my car is a 78 280 with an LS1, T56, infiniti Q45 R200, with all Johns Cars and TTT mounts. I had bad vibration at 70+ mph. I rotated the tires and the vibration moved around with the wheels, so I called the shop that mounted them and said I think the balance is off, can you check and fix them? Since I had them mounted several months ago they wanted to charge me again even though it's only been a few hundred miles driven on them. When I had them mounted, I even asked them if I could take it back if I had any problems as I wouldn't have the car driveable for several months. Of course the lady at the counter gave me the oh sure, no problem, but when it came time to deliver she didn't remember that and couldn't find any record of me in the computer. I said screw you guys and brought it elsewhere, and these guys came and said these tires are way off. they ran it twice for me, and said they are all perfect now. I got it out and now the vibration is around 80. The new balancing took over half the vibration out and it moved it up in speed some. At this point I'm going to trust these guys have them properly balanced and move on down the line trying to figure out what's vibrating. My questions are: What kind of driveline angles should I have? Has anyone had any issues with the balance on the driveshaft from Johns Cars? Do CV shafts have to have a certain angle and is there such thing as balancing them? What about brake rotors, any such thing as balancing those? Anywhere else I should look? The vibration is there whether in gear, neutral, or with the clutch depressed and in gear.

Does it just have stock suspension?

It may be better to get a used MSA one as someone probably did all the repairing to it so it will fit correctly already.

Or put a large washer inside the insulator same size as the bearing instead of shaving the insulator (or a few).

I used a unibit to drill it out for my Koni's.

http://www.lt1swap.com/wiringharness.htm You can go here and see what wires it needs to run. Very easy to follow. All my harness cost me was a roll of solder and some heat shrink tube.