socorob

The self serve yards here will take anything, but they rotate cars every 2-3 months, so they're not there for long when they do show up.

After that I got some Eastwood internal frame coating and doused the inside of every cavity I possibly could. Hope that stuff works as advertised.

My drivers side was rusted there too. I got lucky and found one in the junkyard with the hinge area good. Chopped it off with a battery sawsall and welded it in place on mine. That area is THIN! Square corners in thin stuff can tend to blow thru easier.

I believe so. I have 2, ones a 91 the other I think is a 95. The earlier one has the finned cover, later one doesn't.

Is there a difference in width from when they moved the reluctor wheel from the input shaft to the output shafts? http://www.colorado-triumph.com/ http://jennystr-6project.blogspot.com/2010/09/nissan-diff-mount-mock-up-may-08.html

And if you need to press anything I have use of a small press. Long as its nothing too big or crazy it should handle it. I'm over in Mandeville.

Allens on 190 did my friends Z alignment with all adjustable TTT suspension and he did my Sunbeam with an adjustable 4 link. I couldn't find anyone else to even want to look at it. It took him all day and he still only charged me his normal price. he seemed to be a stand up guy. When my Z is done I will bring it back to him.

My friend bought a 260 a few years ago where the PO did something similar. They took something like 1/4 rod or tube and bent it in the shape of the outside of the flare and just fiberglassed from it to the body without removing any of the fender lip. It looked ok if that's what you're in to, but was a mess to try to get off.

Advanced auto here had everything I used.

I painted my bar with the satin black. They had both in stock. I blasted it, cleaned it, rattle can etch primed it then the bar paint.

I'm putting the controls in the stock place. They only stick back into the dash about 2 inches I guess. If you go with the mini like Mikey pictured above, you could push the right side of the unit forward another inch or so maybe. I'm in the gulf south so I wanted biggest I could fit. Where do you plan to run your knee bar? Give me a measurement and next time I have to put the dash back in I could try to get you some pictures of that area.

Thanks. How's yours coming?

Clean really well with wax and grease remover and do a mist coat for the first coat. Let it flash off some then do heavier coats. Let rattle can stuff cure a long time before hard use. I'm sure it will say something along those lines on the cans instructions.

Advanced auto has chassis and roll bar paint in a rattle can. I'm sure it's as durable as any rattle can stuff and they also have some epoxy in a spray can. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/vht-paint-roll-bar-chassis-gloss-black-11-oz-aerosol-sp670/99984858-p I painted the roll bar in my last car with it and it held up nicely. It was a convertible and it didn't fade. I didn't drag anything across it or have harness or anything wrapped around it to find out how tough it really was. At least with a spray can it would be easy to fix.

Hopefully I have this in for its final resting place. Tired of taking the dash and evaporator in and out to make sure nothing will interfere. Got to this point today and everything tightened all the way. This baby better be cold!

Can you pm me a price o. 4" tach and 4" speedo non gps, programmable with turn signals and high beams. I want to use the output from my t56 for the signal to it. Thanks.

If we can take advantage of the 20% off sale at speedhut through you going on now, I'm ready.

Did the 240 have an r200?

I will be ordering a tach and speedo by summer also.

Is that the mini?

Do you use that strutbar for harness mounts? Do you think it would be strong enough for that? That looks like it would be a simple idea for a removable harness mount if the strength is there.

It looks like theirs already comes cut away from the pictures in the links above.

Mine isn't running yet but used lizard skin. It's light, easy to apply and you can get 100% coverage. Water shouldn't be able to get under it as you paint it on. Can also put many coats and do both sides. When you knock on the panels it's much quieter than before. My friends is running and he has been doing 1 area at a time, just brushing it on, and it gets quieter with each section done. I used fatmat on my last car. It's a cheaper dynamat type of stuff. It weighed a ton, and was hard to cover weird shaped areas. Anything is better than nothing though. Also if you get carpet the mass backing is supposed to make a big difference.

Got the air conditioner lines ran. Just waiting on the heater hose bulkhead connectors to come in to finish.

http://news.yahoo.com/nissans-z-car-appeal-continues-151629009.html The Nismo 370 has some nice looking side skirts.