socorob

Thanks for the offer, but I will end up making one if I absolutely have to. I'm just trying to find out if I'm the only one with this issue. Hows your car coming?

I've been making slow progress on mine. When I first put it in a few months ago, the part that relocates an idler pulley didn't fit. He calls it the spigot. Went to napa to see if they had a bearing with the same size OD as the one in the LS pulley with a smaller ID. The one he sent was too small. No go. I called John and he said machinist had a heart attack and is in hospital or something and went and checked and batch is made wrong. Of course I got the 1st from that batch. He sent me another bearing with a little piece of metal bent into a curve. It's supposed to take up the slack between the spigot and the bearing but its still not enough and I don't want to use it because its not even a bushing.It has about 1/32 of slop when it's installed. It's been a few months and he said he still hasn't been able to get the proper one. Anyone else has this problem? I don't want to do to a machinist to have this made, or borrow my friends lathe because I paid for the part and got sent the wrong one. I'm getting close to start time and can't even start the car with that piece.

If mine was running I would definitely go. Hopefully next year will be my year.

What side mirrors are those?

Yeah let me know. My car isn't far off the interstate. I think NGO passed by here on the way back from your place.

The sandblaster i know uses some sort of implement paint from tractor supply on the utility trailers he blasts. He says it's fairly inexpensive and pretty durable. But as Litman said the blasted surface makes a good base for primer to stick to.

Thanks for that link!

Here are the 245-17s. They are close in the back but not touching anything. The car is not aligned though so they may move in the direction I don't want them to.

What an offer! I think I have 2 broken ones I got from junkyards to scavenge enough parts to make a complete unbroken one.

My car has been in skate purgatory since around July, so I have no way to get it over there to check the fit. Thanks for the offer though. hopefully in maybe a month or so I will be able to fire it up for the 1st time with the new drivetrain.

I still keep looking at my almost perfect fenders and am so on the fence about it. I think overfenders look good from a distance but crap up close. If the were just a little longer and began and ended at body lines i would be a little better with them. Supposedly the Japanese ones fit better but it looks like they like to run 15 inch wheels that are stretched. My worry about thise is that you would have to slide them up for the larger tires and then they wouldn't start where I want them to. if these 245s dont hit I'm not cutting. If they do hit then I'll get out the cut off wheel and they will have to say hello to my little friend.

http://groupharrington.com/en This is who makes the SS bumpers. I want to know if the new chrome ones with fit a 280 with custom brackets. I would hate to get some and they end up being too narrow or something to fit atround the body.

I can't bring myself to cut my perfectly good AC panel to mount the knobs. I am hoping I can get some sandwich action going on with a piece of metal wrapped around the back and a piece of ABS wedging in from the front, with the threaded knobs applying the squeeze to it.

One of the several reasons I'm installing vintage air is to get rid of all that stuff.

Or you could weld plates on the ends of the trans mount and make it bolt it. I'm not sure if it matters if it bolts in 2 places. I think a combination mount between the 2 would be better than either. Weld that into a single piece to where it unbolts from the frame rails all in 1 piece.

Sorry, I got 2 so I would have a spare. Check your local u pull it yards, they show up there fairly regularly.

Do you have a link to a picture of what he did?

The self serve yards here will take anything, but they rotate cars every 2-3 months, so they're not there for long when they do show up.

After that I got some Eastwood internal frame coating and doused the inside of every cavity I possibly could. Hope that stuff works as advertised.

My drivers side was rusted there too. I got lucky and found one in the junkyard with the hinge area good. Chopped it off with a battery sawsall and welded it in place on mine. That area is THIN! Square corners in thin stuff can tend to blow thru easier.

I believe so. I have 2, ones a 91 the other I think is a 95. The earlier one has the finned cover, later one doesn't.

Is there a difference in width from when they moved the reluctor wheel from the input shaft to the output shafts? http://www.colorado-triumph.com/ http://jennystr-6project.blogspot.com/2010/09/nissan-diff-mount-mock-up-may-08.html

And if you need to press anything I have use of a small press. Long as its nothing too big or crazy it should handle it. I'm over in Mandeville.

Allens on 190 did my friends Z alignment with all adjustable TTT suspension and he did my Sunbeam with an adjustable 4 link. I couldn't find anyone else to even want to look at it. It took him all day and he still only charged me his normal price. he seemed to be a stand up guy. When my Z is done I will bring it back to him.

My friend bought a 260 a few years ago where the PO did something similar. They took something like 1/4 rod or tube and bent it in the shape of the outside of the flare and just fiberglassed from it to the body without removing any of the fender lip. It looked ok if that's what you're in to, but was a mess to try to get off.