socorob

How does it perform in comparison to the factory Datsun AC?

Is there any extra room around it? The next size one up is only about an inch bigger each direction. You think that one would fit?

http://www.oldairproducts.com/catalog/hurricane-ac-systems/universal-hurricane-systems-cable-operated-c-1_32000000_120131979_120131981.html?osCsid=6758e9770cc6fa70a1142900bad1a530 The more look at it, the more I would like to go with something like this. With these aftermarket units, at least you get to choose what kind of air goes where. I already have the bracket, the compressor, the dryer, and a few hoses that are new. I'm just not sure if one of these units would fit. I have not put my dash yet to see if it would fit in the same spot the original used. Also I need to see if any of the control panels would fit where the stock the one was and if I could make it look proper.

Does anyone know if the water flows through the vacuum type valve on the 78 280 when vacuum is applied or when there is no vacuum? I have a GTO valve that is vacuum operated and mounts under the hood, so I would like to use that if it works in the same way with vacuum applied.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/150797626440?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 Are you talking about this guy? He also sells modern style condensers. I need to pull my dash soon so i was thinking to replace this and the heater core so I wouldn't have to go back in there for hopefully a long time.

http://www.lsxtv.com/features/pri-coverage/pri-2013-a-new-strange-aluminum-rearend-for-5th-gen-camaros/

Yeah I think they are more concerned about you catapulting yourself. I saw truck break the front u joint at a sand drag when I was a kid and it almost went back over front when the driveshaft speared into the ground. I had the same problem with the water temp sender I saw a few other people had in some old posts where the sending unit wouldn't fit into the JCI adapter. I just centered it up in a drill press and used a 9/16 bit to drill it down. I stopped about 1/8 from going all the way through to leave a lip for the wider part of the sending unit to contact/ seal against. I put a little WOG on the threads just to be sure it doesn't leak

I'm shooting for February to get mine started. Will still need a lot of little things before it's drivable. It will probably be getting hot by the time it's complete so working AC is going to be a must, especially if I want to keep the wife happy.

Thanks, that's kinda what i thought. I have the new compressor and drier from JCI with a few of the hoses. I like the hot rod AC units but really don't want to have to change the switches out in the interior. I'm trying to keep that part of the car as stock as possible. I have all the components but am not too excited about having to put all that mess back in the engine bay. would I just get rid of the wire/hoses or whatever else went to the fast idle FICD thing?

I have the JCI kit to put AC in the Datsun. My question is: Can the vacuum bottle be removed from the AC system and the magnet valve that makes the L6 idle up when the AC is on? Does the LS with a stock cam pull enough vacuum so te tank is not needed to operate the doors in the AC system? It looks like my tank isn't going to fit back where it was, so trying to get some ideas on how others went about putting AC.

Is there a picture of your safety loop somewhere on here? I would love to see how its done on the Z.

I received my driveshaft from JCI yesterday so realized I couldn't put off dealing with the e brake hook up any longer. I have a combo of Z32 and Q45 brakes in the rear. The easiest thing I decided was to bolt a piece of angle to the brake cable mountings and bolt the Q45 cables to that. Then I had to make some sort of bracket using pieces from the Z and Q45 welded to a piece of flat bar. I probably could have made something a little prettier but it was a rainy day and I only had a few hours that I was able to squeeze in so I decided to do it with what I just had laying around.

I used both the heat and sound. I painted the bottom of my car with rust shield and ended up having to scuff every inch of it. If i had it to do over I would use epoxy primer with the luzard skin over it. i have no personal experience with it but know some hot rod guys who said it made huge differences on sound and heat in their cars. If you do both under and totally inside the car it seems like it would only gain about 30 pounds of weight, its fairly light.

He'd be more fun to watch though as he owns his own railroad. He has a short track that ties in with the main lines and he periodically takes his private train on a run. So does that make him a double engineer?

The tar based stuff is probably 50s technology. I just used lizard skin which is water based and seems to be fairly flexible. I will report back in 10 years and let you know how it's holding up! In all seriousness though a chip in the paint starts rust and those occur much faster under there than undercoat cracking does.

Are you using the 84 style five lug hubs upfront? Are there any issues with tires rubbing in front or back?

Yeah I lucked out. It only had 43,000 on it.

Yes it's above the oil filter using johns cars little adapter. It's like 1/4" off.

....And it's in! I must have looked at it for 20 min. Has anyone had any issues with the oil sending unit adapter? I can't screw my sending unit all the way down because it hits the block about halfway down. Should I just get a small threaded extension for it?

I've heard the high end die hards are repackaged Odyssees. They go on sale sometimes for about $40ish cheaper than the same size odyssey.

There's an article on the web where they did that to a 240sx dash and covered it in alcantara.

I bought a pullout and the seller was supposed to swap the alternator, oil pan, shifter, and throttle body to an f body one. Do you think if I cut about 1/4" or so off the ears it will clear?

Thanks. I have a weatherpack tool so if I need to change connectors that's not a big deal as long as it can be done once the engine is in the car.

I should be dropping my engine and trans in next weekend. I'm just waiting on a few small things that are holding me up. I will be using the ford reverse light switch on the GTO transmission instead of beating in the tunnel for the GM one like it says to do in Johns car book to clear the GM reverse light switch. My question is that there are 2 "ears" by the switch that stick out just as far. Do I need to give those the chop for clearance before I install it? It seems like they would be in the way if the switch is, but haven't seen anyone on here mention having to remove them.

Check seals-it. They make split ones so you don't have to pull the wires out to install it.