socorob

The tar based stuff is probably 50s technology. I just used lizard skin which is water based and seems to be fairly flexible. I will report back in 10 years and let you know how it's holding up! In all seriousness though a chip in the paint starts rust and those occur much faster under there than undercoat cracking does.

Are you using the 84 style five lug hubs upfront? Are there any issues with tires rubbing in front or back?

Yeah I lucked out. It only had 43,000 on it.

Yes it's above the oil filter using johns cars little adapter. It's like 1/4" off.

....And it's in! I must have looked at it for 20 min. Has anyone had any issues with the oil sending unit adapter? I can't screw my sending unit all the way down because it hits the block about halfway down. Should I just get a small threaded extension for it?

I've heard the high end die hards are repackaged Odyssees. They go on sale sometimes for about $40ish cheaper than the same size odyssey.

There's an article on the web where they did that to a 240sx dash and covered it in alcantara.

I bought a pullout and the seller was supposed to swap the alternator, oil pan, shifter, and throttle body to an f body one. Do you think if I cut about 1/4" or so off the ears it will clear?

Thanks. I have a weatherpack tool so if I need to change connectors that's not a big deal as long as it can be done once the engine is in the car.

I should be dropping my engine and trans in next weekend. I'm just waiting on a few small things that are holding me up. I will be using the ford reverse light switch on the GTO transmission instead of beating in the tunnel for the GM one like it says to do in Johns car book to clear the GM reverse light switch. My question is that there are 2 "ears" by the switch that stick out just as far. Do I need to give those the chop for clearance before I install it? It seems like they would be in the way if the switch is, but haven't seen anyone on here mention having to remove them.

Check seals-it. They make split ones so you don't have to pull the wires out to install it.

I started setting up mine tonight. The depth inside of my master is 13.3 mm. Should I leave .5 mm of clearance or put the rod from the booster just touching it?

I'm getting ready to start plumbing my fuel system. I'm planning to start at the back and work my way forward. I have a Ford inertia switch for the fuel pump left over from another project. Has anyone else use one of these on the Z? If so where did y'all end up mounting them?

That's what I was gonna try to do since its only barely rubbing in 2 spots.

Steering rack bushings? Bump steer spacer needed? Some kind of Ackerman issue?

They make several different styles of drill bit extensions that may work.

http://datsunspirit.com/?wpsc-product=revised-280z-rear-skinny-bumper-conversion-brackets Has anyone used these and can comment on the fitment ?

The tab that's welded onto the backing plate or the tabs welded to the strut tube?

It's seated all the way. The boots are really thick and I think the early q45 cv joints look a little bigger than my friends z32 cv joints. Maybe that's the difference?

The other side has about 1/16" of clearance and this side, upon further inspection, rubs just barely for about an inch of rotation in 2 spots so I think I'll let it ride. The rest of it has about 1/32" or so clearance. I guess the boot is a little thicker in those 2 spots and will wear down enough to clear.

Can anyone post a photo of the victory spoiler from a side view straight on? I think that's the spoiler I would like to eventually get but never can find a straight on side shot to see how it looks with the lines of the car.

I measured my 78 yesterday the rear well seemed to be around 10 inches from highest point of the opening straight to the inner fender well. That was from the inside lip. i will probably have my car back in the air in the middle of the week and will get an exact measurement.

http://www.baselinesuspensions.com/instant-center.php http://mysite.verizon.net/triaged/4linkcalcv15html/ Here's a few more.

http://www.shopeshop.org/tim.47.htm Here's a calculator to make things a little easier.

That's some back plate!