socorob

Check seals-it. They make split ones so you don't have to pull the wires out to install it.

I started setting up mine tonight. The depth inside of my master is 13.3 mm. Should I leave .5 mm of clearance or put the rod from the booster just touching it?

I'm getting ready to start plumbing my fuel system. I'm planning to start at the back and work my way forward. I have a Ford inertia switch for the fuel pump left over from another project. Has anyone else use one of these on the Z? If so where did y'all end up mounting them?

That's what I was gonna try to do since its only barely rubbing in 2 spots.

Steering rack bushings? Bump steer spacer needed? Some kind of Ackerman issue?

They make several different styles of drill bit extensions that may work.

http://datsunspirit.com/?wpsc-product=revised-280z-rear-skinny-bumper-conversion-brackets Has anyone used these and can comment on the fitment ?

The tab that's welded onto the backing plate or the tabs welded to the strut tube?

It's seated all the way. The boots are really thick and I think the early q45 cv joints look a little bigger than my friends z32 cv joints. Maybe that's the difference?

The other side has about 1/16" of clearance and this side, upon further inspection, rubs just barely for about an inch of rotation in 2 spots so I think I'll let it ride. The rest of it has about 1/32" or so clearance. I guess the boot is a little thicker in those 2 spots and will wear down enough to clear.

Can anyone post a photo of the victory spoiler from a side view straight on? I think that's the spoiler I would like to eventually get but never can find a straight on side shot to see how it looks with the lines of the car.

I measured my 78 yesterday the rear well seemed to be around 10 inches from highest point of the opening straight to the inner fender well. That was from the inside lip. i will probably have my car back in the air in the middle of the week and will get an exact measurement.

http://www.baselinesuspensions.com/instant-center.php http://mysite.verizon.net/triaged/4linkcalcv15html/ Here's a few more.

http://www.shopeshop.org/tim.47.htm Here's a calculator to make things a little easier.

That's some back plate!

Ha, but do we ever know for sure ?

http://www.raceglides.com.au/files/fourlink-ladderbar-tips.pdf Here's some good reference on 4 link. There used to be a good website by Billy Shope that explained setups for different uses. Start on page 3 and it will explain antisquat better than I'm able to, but basically over 100% antisquat tries to force the wheels into the ground which makes the back of the car rise. When I made mine I put a few holes in the rear bracket. I ended up having to try a few different combinations of top and bottom holes to get it to keep almost level at all times. ( I was going for handling.)

I'm installing mt TTT rear coilovers and they are touching my cv joints. Are these things supposed to be left and rights? Mine look the same, but they are touching. Anyone else run into this? Am I doing something wrong?

Antisquat is how much the rear end rises(good for traction) and squat is how much the rear end squats (bad for traction) in a straight axle car. It has a good bit to do with the differences in lengths of the bottom arms vs the top arms, among other things. Drag racers usually go for a high antisquat number to maximize traction. There are some calculators online to figure it out so you can move the arms around as much as you're able to package in the vehicle to get closer to the best setup for your goal. Handling guys try to get it as close to 0 so there is as little weight transfer back there as they can get.

row52 showed none for me but pullapart shows 5 70-83, but only 1 is an s30.

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/114545-s30s-in-junkyards/?do=findComment&comment=1072628 I put a link to 2 yards with searches but there wasn't much interest. I always check the couple yards within 2 hours drive from me. I got some good stuff for cheap and even went with a battery sawsall and got me some good patch panels that actually fit.

Can you post a photo showing how much space there is between the wires and header?

I haven't installed mine yet but the guy from JTR said I needed to use the LS2 90 degree plug wires with the headers. Can anyone confirm this?

I'm assuming the problem with the mount is the front of the diff wants to lift up under power. The sides of the mounts aren't too substantial. This is what I was thinking would help keep it down. Anyone see any problems with this before I cut the piece out? It will be bolted to the jacking plate holes in bottom of the crossmember there and I will drill 2 holes in the mount to have it all bolt on. I will probably weld an angle gusset or 2 to keep it from being able to bend.

http://www.sfxperformance.com/catalog/Exterior~Styling/Grille~Material/page_1.htm http://customcargrill.com/ http://www.autodirectsave.com/Body-Kit-Mesh-Grille-C9.aspx http://www.marketworks.com/StoreFrontProfiles/default.aspx?sfid=56674 http://www.customcargrills.com/Custom-Grill-Mesh.asp