socorob

I guess the torque arm you are talking about would be like the backbone ala miata. Some of them had an arm that went from the trans to the diff. Wonder how easily one of those could be modified for the Z? http://www.miataturbo.net/attachments/general-miata-chat-9/60327d1353449479-need-help-purchase-decision-miata-chassis-5k85s35j83id3nc3hac9nc5dd3e18e1c8150e-jpg It would stiffen it up a lot but would wreak all kinds of havoc on trying to get dual exhaust down there. It's hard to see in the pic above But you get the idea.

did y'all do any spot or stitch welding to the seams before the engine swap? i'm curious because I'm planning an LS swap into mine and i spent the last couple evenings putting extra spot welds all over every seam in the interior. I was planning on doing the same underneath once I get the car raised some. I'm still on the fence about to rollbar or not to rollbar. Do you think if everything is stitched up and with baddog rails it will be ok?

If your console was still in good shape you could use something like a retrosound, which is a mechless unit with 2 post installation like the original radios. Once its hacked I think you're on your own.

Another route is cleaning the ones you have. Eastwood makes a bolt cleaner to remove all the rust from your original bolts. Its like a rock tumbler. Just use antisieze on the bolts that you can.

Try West Marine. The one here has a whole cable section with all kinds of ends and connectors and a huge crimp tool mounted to a table you can use to make up what you need.

Also the VVT would probably be tough to deal with. I'm sure someone will make a pulley to lock it out like the 60 degree V6 guys do.

Are these still available? I just want to make sure I have this straight... For my 78 280 I would only need to trim a little off the back edge of the door panel for them to fit properly. If I get the non speaker ones, will the window crank work? I don't want to have to go to power windows.

http://www.caranddriver.com/news/gen-v-small-block-v-8-specs-and-details-on-the-c7-engine-news Unless you happen to be talking about the 5th Gen LT1 in the new Corvette, then that would be something. I wonder if they mount the same as the LS series?

I've shipped 2 cars from Washington state to Louisiana. Both times I went with big name companies, and when the cars got here they were on private carriers both times. Talking to both the drivers they say they just go to some website that the shipping companies put bids out on and accept the ones they want. I guess the larger companies have better insurance maybe? That's the only difference I could see between the 2 companies.Also you can pay a little extra for an enclosed trailer if its a time of year where they may drive through an area that has hail storms or some other environmental factor that could cause some damage. There are a few companies like the ones the auctions like Mecum and such use for their transport who own all the trucks and employ the drivers, but those are usually pricier.

My other car is a Sunbeam and its a common problem on the later ones. Most people just run another cable into the car under the dash as a backup.

I don't know if you ever get down to New Orleans, but if you do I bet you would do good on the Drag N Lap at New Orleans Motorsports Park.. They use the last 1/8 mile of the straight away so its a 1/8 drag that turns into a section of the road course. The cars have to be good at everything not just 1 aspect.

There are some things on ebay similar. I think one is called ez-lip or something along those lines. There are a couple different ones with slightly different shapes.

http://s3mag.com/blog/?p=1731 They peeled all the old vinyl off an S13 dash and wrapped it in alcantara. I don't know how hard it would be to make all the curves fit without sewing it.

Just sand as much as you can off, treat the areas that were rusted with Ospho or something similar, and paint it really well. I'm in the process of doing that to my floors now. I just used dry ice to get out the old tar, and am using a dremel multimax to get out the old seam sealer. I actually took some exterior metal behind the door down to bare metal, wiped it with Ospho. It sat about 2 weeks before I did the welding in that area and went through at least 2 rain storms. It only had a few dots of surface rust coming back. I am a believer it that stuff now.

He must use late falcons as the early vintage racing ones weigh less than 2500 with an all iron big block! The early 2 door small blocks in street trim were something like 2300. They were very light cars.

http://4moores.com/280z/files/index.html There are instructions here on how to rebuild them.

It will be pretty hard to push a 1" master without power assist. If you look at older cars that came with manual brakes only most seemed to be around 3/4ish big.

You may want to try looking around on some of the locost forums. Just remember there are the old Duratec V6s and the new Ford Duratec/Mazda MZR 4 cylinder engines. And to add to the confusion I think in the UK some Zetecs may have been called Duratecs.

I really like that choice. Like you said 400+ hp in the noble and light. Quads4rods makes a t5 bell here and I think it's more supported in the UK. There are a few old Lotus Esprits on the web using that engine. I believe Mazda, Ford and Jaguar all used a version of it.

I just got a 78 Z and I want to LS it and trying to figure out which engine to look for. What is your LS2 out of and did you have to change the oil pan or anything else and did the JCI stuff work with it? Those star specs are really grippy tires. I put them on my Sunbeam that I autocrossed a few times and they made a huge difference. They will definitely go onto the Z too.

I looked on rock auto and it appears they both use the same size inner and outer bearing (at least the s30 and 86 300), but the seals are different. Did anyone ever definitively say which is the correct seal to use?

Something about the side pieces look funny, like they don't fit right. Looks like they aren't parallel with the main part.

http://www.meziere.com/ps-532-0-WN0039S.aspx Meziere makes these water outlets that may help with one side. You can get the necks in a couple different sizes.

http://www.sealsit.com/sealflex_rodend.asp I just noticed they make elastomer rod ends now. It doesn't say the strength rating of them but they would probably help with the NVH downside of heims.

Only on the side that isn't captured by a bracket. I saw a picture on a forum a long time ago and basically what happened to the guy was the body of the heim went over the head of the bolt when the bearing got ripped out. This was on a smaller and lighter car than a Z too. For the couple bucks its probably not worth taking the chance. Also put seals-it boots on them, it will help keep the grit out of them that tears them up. They are VERY hard to put on but so tight I dont think water can get in there. http://www.sealsit.com/rodendboots.asp