Tony D

But I'm already on Facebook!

uh, you guys do realize the 432 while advertised as a "160PS" power rating, was easily upgraded with the "Engine Assembly, Premium Fuel"... The Mechanical Fuel Injection Competition Cams...well... Let's just say they stopped development at 345HP. My ONLY lament is they only made 417 total S30's. I wish they made them all in 1971, and then took forever to sell the last 83... JUST so that S20 would be legal for use in SCTA Land Speed Events. Oh that smarmy Honda Sponsored SOB would SOOOO eat his words if I could run an S20 instead of an L20A in competition! Ever driven/ridden in a 10,000rpm L6? I have... And..."lol btw got ur pm definatly going to check emm out" Word to the wise: beware when playing with fire!

I simply left the country and didn't come back until I was 25 and Married. That kept my insurance rates low. And all my infractions and misdemeanors involving Z-Cars were not part of the official driving record. I would skip the wife next time around. Pay the insurance. In the long run, it's WAAAAY Cheaper!

"Have you also noticed any black spots on rockers? looking at my rockers, they were black on the tip which is a clear sign of a lot of heat generation." That color is from serious heat generation. I would also address oil flow and monitor temperatures in the region! Tracing it to valve recession is something that you should have caught during routine breakin-checks (every 100KM would be my guess...not more 200 km up to the first 1000km.)

No, there is a fitting that replaces a 4" section of hose, and you put your sensors in there, screwed in just like in he housing or rad tank!

Just ran across a non USA, 1984 Carburetted E88 head on a Nissan Laurel here in Brunei...original owner since new... Now working the angles... I want to see those chambers!

Looks installed dry, with an undersized driver that may have cupped it. Sealant & Staking, always!

I thought that was what I said in Post #5...

Take it to an industrial media blaster, then have it powder coated. Sitting horizontally, it is a stout base for a 1" thick Lexan top bolted into the head bolt holes! You can make leveling pedestal feet to go either in the front and rear mains position, or use the oil pan bolt holes. Drill oversize and retap around an M8x1.25 on the four corners and standard table feet screw into it and level the table.

Radiator Hose Mounting for both? I used Suzuki Switches on Suzuki Bungs in the bottom of my lower radiator tank. Protected and easily done when recoring. Just some brass fittings the shop had and out I went to find appropriate switches.

I wouldn't compare any MOT inspection with anything done in the US... The level of actual inspection in the USA anywhere is a joke compared with yep the others listed I'm familiar with... But even in Japan, YOU can do the repairs yourself, and take it to a government run inspection centre. Pay and pass/ fail. You don't HAVE to take it to an official GOJ Garage. Almost nobody knows that... It's nowhere near the level in Australia for modifications. Turn the block into a wine rack or table base!

"Maximum Velocity" at a partial throttle "any rpm beyond idle" will likely be at the Throttle Plate, and not the intake valve, BTW.... Therefore reinforcing the dominant placement above the throttle plates in most engines...(F1 being best known) In a turbo car, the outlet of the turbine wheel before the toroidal diffuser is highest velocity...

Corky says a lot of things...but didn't follow his own advice in manifolds... Quoting his comments on turbocharged engine FI placement (contradicted by Cosworth Engineering in Turbo applications, BTW) when someone is referencing runner length (which implies N/A application) might be far of the mark.

Japan, still in Nissan current-stock boxes. Must be dealer obsolete inventory not on their computer system...

"Six days ago" -- I missed that in post #16... Last I recalled you "were inclined to put a mechanical gauge on" but missed that second tidbit hidden in there. Should be roughly 10psi per rpm, so that's about right.

This is a common swap in Japan. Get an RB20 from the early/mid 80's... Easy peasy!

You have obviously missed the cross-country ramblings of me and "The Blue Turd"... Everybody says the same thing...it just keeps running. I bought it for $125 out of Police auction and have put 110,000+ miles on the car. That includes running at every MSA Auto X that had an event while I owned it. It, on stock suspension and tires was usually 3-5 seconds off top S30 time of the day against cars specifically prepped for Auto X. Yes, it was a wallowing pig, but if the driver DROVE the car, it was FAST in stock form. Instructors would run it as "The Blue Turd Challenge" to see who could get the best time. It consistently wound up one of the "Fast 5" of he event! I remember one year an instructor was coming into the pits in a black C5 or C6... E-Braked the car to a stop and jumped out waving to someone parking the 260 exclaiming "WAIT WAIT, I WANNA DRIVE THE TURD!" I actually ran an ENTIRE tank of gas through the car one year at the event and had to run out to get more fuel. Everybody said the same thing: "for something that looks like sh*t, man, we beat it all day long and it just keeps running!" My favourite comment at the Canadian Zedaway in 2001 was "you drove all the way from California in THAT?!?!?" Yep, and averaged (AVERAGED) 100+ mph across most of Nebraska, Iowa, and Illinois in 100 degree, 85% humidity with the A/C on, and a 70 degree interior! Nissan got the car RIGHT, the hardest thing to do when modifying ANY vehicle is to improve it without compromising the "total package" the OEM Engineers put together! It really is brought out on a car like the Z, when you own one BONE STOCK and properly maintained...how WELL it does most things. Most people start out with thoughts of "improving" something that is malfunctioning...and catalog that "improvement" but never knew how little they really improved! All those bolt ons to get 120hp...about 20 less than a properly tuned up stocker! Enjoy your ride...you may find, almost 20 years later, you're still DRIVING it every day and WORKING on it one weekend every other month or so (I really probably should readjust me valves...how the hell did 110,000 miles slip by that fast???) instead of vice-versa! Think about that last sentence... Tell me that isn't a LOT of "improved" cars out there!

Paul who? I'm lost on that reference. The VW has "symmetric" lobes, same opening and closing ramps. So in one turn you could adjust all valves. With them it was no big rush as you did them "stone cold in the morning before the sun comes up, after you've had your coffee"... But aftermarket cams since the 90's have started to use asymmetric grinds, and now on Hot VW's you have to take care... But again, it's done cold, so 1-4-3-2 is not that big a deal... Especially if your arms are long enough to reach the ratchet on the crank pulley nut...or you are big enough to leave it in 4th and just shuffle the bug/bus forward to adjust the next valve in line! That gets the neighbours thinking...

Differentiate what we are saying here: "all" the reports say REPRODUCTIONS "suck"? As I never had issues with the OEM Fairlady Z mirrors in the proper locations... No blind spots whatsoever.

I did a 1969 VW Beetle in 1981 spraying unthinned GM Surplus Fawn Metallic Acrylic Lacquer from the mid 60's... You can buff lacquer...nobody knew. I to 8mm movies of that car somewhere...

The engineering facts counter the prior opinion. TBI engines run exceptionally well at low rpms. They are not injecting at the back of the valve, and universally used already well developed manifold designs that had known tau characteristics. It's been shown for performance, the further you position injectors from the valve, the better for mixture homogeneity and therefore consistency and power. The ONLY reason for universal placement at the backs of the valve is emissions and not having to worry about tau layer transient dynamics. A corollary comment is using the air box as a flame arrester is frowned upon by the legal department of all manufacturers. Their engine designs are dictated by environmental rules, not performance.

Proper thread locking compounds in aluminium save that seizing issue. As for penetrant, "Beeswax"... As I said in China "Wax made BY bees. You know (make wing flappies with my hands at my shoulders) BZZZZ BZZZZ BZZZZ! Bees?" Apparently Bee Pollen is known, honey is known, but he use of bees wax outside candles or something is absolutely foreign to Shanghai Chinese. Took them forever, in conjunction with drawing of honeycomb to understand "Beeswax" was 1) Not a Trade Name 2) Not made FROM Bees 3) Was made BY Bees Heat your stud hot hot hot with that torch, then quench some beeswax onto it...flows like crazy into the voids and acts as a great lubricant while removing... It also works great on your drill bits when drilling broken stainless steel fasteners out.

On WHAT gauge? It takes FOREVER on the stock electric gauge to recover and read correctly. As stated originally, put a large bore MECHANICAL gauge on there and THEN report. Nothing you are experiencing is ANY different than what has been experienced for 40 years with these cars. Why believe yours is doing something different. If you are pumping oil to the top of the engine, a higher volume pump will make that issue WORSE! Chances are you will pump even your aerated oil up and lose ALL pressure. You won't appreciably improve drain back, your option for pump up (as in any other production engine) is to increase sump volume. It goes "quack", it has webbed feet, it has a bill... Chances are this IS a duck, and not a Caribou.

Looks like a nice setup to install, the only issue being the space to route -6AN fittings over the top of the S30 tank. Solves sourcing a tank from a vehicle never sold on your continent (or hemisphere! That's why "location" is required...) This will likely be a nice way to go. Gets rid of the issues associated with running a surge pot... You will need to run a return line...either the original vapor line or another one. The sizing of their pump and lines may be an issue using the 8 & 6 mm lines in the S30 Chassis for fuel feed and return...

Frankly, every L-Series I buy goes straight to the radiator shop for a power flush, replace the water pump, and 1/4 tube of alumna seal with the 160 thermostat. The only variable is the radiator...and if I have an original, I get those tanks three cored if its leaking or showing signs of overheating. I blast up Palm Springs Grade and Chirraco from/to Phoenix buzzing at 3,500 towing a trailer that wiegs upwards of 800#, and run spot dead Center of the gauge, and never have an overheating issue. It's simply not an issue with the right maintenance and slightly more thermal rejection, and a lowering of the temperature to a point where nucleate boiling can start. Stant 16# Super Cap.... You might be able to run a higher thermostat with a 24# cap, but do you want 170F air blowing all over your engine any components, or 200F air? That was my deciding question...