Tony D

Read the thread and do the suggested fixes and then post again...

FB is ZC.Com X1000 in terms of asshats out there with absolutely no technical acumen preaching to people. The sad thing is the really knowledgeable people you meet from that place tend to withdraw when they see the gaggle and hoarde... It's Social Justice Warrior time, have to tiptoe around even the most basic things as children of all ages take offense at the slightest hint of a slight. Oh, and then there's the haters from the forums that just come on to blast someone when they've been drinking. That's always a hoot. It's fun for what it is, but most people are referencing these forum sites for searching and archives of knowledge, and that was exactly what the originators envisioned. Not a popular site with banter and crap...but a place where GOOD knowledge was exchanged, and deposited so others who wanted the knowledge without the background noise would have a place to go! And in that, it functions as designed. The references you see on FB are "HybridZ" this, "Classic Z" that... If they could move the useless banter all to Zukerbergs anal probe marketing site, and keep knowledge pure and factual here...oh let me sing like Willy Wonka!

When we raced sportsman camaros we had two lights: water pressure and oil pressure one on either side of the tach, with the shift light above the tach...right in your line of sight. There were gauges for both water and oil off towards the center of the dash, you looked at them around start time and during warmup or cooldown.... As I recall, water pressure ran 45-60 psi in the block and the Hobbs switch was set for 30# (we ran a 24# Pressure Cap with straight water. The Hobbs switch should be set to come on above cap pressure and below operating pressure at fast idle...for the life of me I can't remember that pressure now. I remember the water light was on when we started, and for a while until we warmed up, unless we revved the engine a bit.

Not "vapor lock" try 'percolation" the car comes to stop and the heat in the carb body boils the fuel in the float bowl up and out into the main venturi causing the richness. "Vapor Lock" occurs in the fuel lines and starves the carbs from restarting until liquid fuel is back in and flowing into the carbs. Heat Shield, Blanket the Headers (don't wrap!), run a return line and try to keep the underhood cooler. My issues were helped using a 160F thermostat as everything underhood ran cooler. There was a car we had on the Vegas ZCON that was vapor locking, I put in a 1 gallon igloo cooler with copper coils in it, and it would take a 7# bag of ice. Completely cured everything on the highway, and in stop and go traffic. Whenever possible now, I will siamese the fuel return and feed lines with the cool AC line going to the cabin, and wrap them in insulation. Get some heat out going into the carbs, and take it back out going back to the tank.

that box is really durable...

Thank the MBA's...

E31 head is worth something. Interesting they took the time to put in dished pistons. Very interesting indeed! If you think you want to keep the SU, you will need to retaper the needle and by all means use a wastegate to hold boost at a given level while getting the mixture right. Problem is you will have to determine needle station height to and use the starter lever to give more fuel then cut the needle for that station and move on... The way the needle tapers you go from lean to rich which is the absolute wrong way to go when tuning a turbo under boost! You may not "want" to spray methanol, but I'm telling you 30 years ago you sprayed methanol from a winshield washer tank and a carburettor jet stuck in the aircleaner activated by a hobbs pressure switch on the manifold. As Z-Ya said, you WILL start detonating in short order unless you rezise the jet in the SU or retaper the needle to flow much more fuel once you go on boost!

Just rotate your carrier 180 degrees in the hole and you will get gear mesh. Cut a flat with a hacksaw or dremel there and lock it in place with the retainer. Been in mine like that forever. There were two carriers, the only real difference is the offset is opposite in each one. Rotating them makesup for that same thing. In fact, that's how I installed the 91 240SX Speed Sensor in the early five speed in my 260Z when I put in the electronic speedo. It basically is universal new to old, old to new, just a 180 twist and a new lock tab location cut.

That discussion has been offline...LOL

We always used a jig and hand arbor press to seat them. You can feel if they are getting that ball underneath (like you say, broaching) and can stop... if you use a hydraulic press, they just hammer them in there and 10,000 miles later they're loose and pumping up and down. Well, I'll repair it. Send it on! BTW was this a new valve... At least that restores my faith in Honda Parts...knowing the valve head didn't drop off!

Honestly the Corvair 140's do this regularly. Growing up Air Cooled my standard valve seat installation method was to give a slight interference fit into a hot head (200~250F) with the valve seats in LN2. A jig on a manual arbor press was enough to seat the valves with the slight interference fit--they did not drop in, they were a press-fit even with the differential. Never dropped a seat. I think your crack came from the valve beating up into the head as well as other non-compressibles. Our old 77 Impala did this at 41,000 miles...valve head dropped off at the friction weld to the stem and sat atop the piston till I cranked it at the end of the day...then it was 'rap rap rap' and out the tailpipe comes the antifreeze... No seat to drop in a cast iron head as I recall but damage was very similar as the valve poked through the casting to the water jacket, then the valve embedded itself into the piston and beat a bunch of things severely inside the combustion chamber. Not unheard of a valve seat cracks and drops out on it's own as well. Generally on the Corvairs you find if the seat has dropped it's hanging on the valve head like a crown. I think you had a valve failure that killed everything else. Given the cost of the head production, it warrants a casting repair to return it to service. If you won't, I would. At least give it a shot and see if it can be salvaged. Best this prototype get as many hours and reveal things like this to alter later production models. Let me know, there are plenty of casting repair places in L.A., and I got an L28 Block going out for billet main caps and a block girdle so it's prepped for 10,000 rpm operation may as well put a head on that will support it. Prototype or not!

" McInnis added how “a high-strength, tool-steel core allows a larger gun drill through the camshaft, which reduces rotating mass and, with it, parasitic losses in power output.” And people thought I was joking referring to losses from camshaft mass... To them I now say "Mnyaaaah!"

My understanding from the Japanese I'd talked to is the O5L has the same coolant cores as the P90, but with smaller cores for the intake and exhaust runners, and combustion chambers. The Bare O5L weighed more than a comparably stripped P90 I have so that may be the case given what appears to be thicker than usual casting in the runner. I can't bear to cut up the P90, but I think someone has in the past, that would confirm if the old tale is true or not. It was said they take the same porting as the P90 or N42 so maybe the water jacket was a standard part of the casting, with chambers and runners changed accordingly. Had to be something interchangeable in the cores you would think...

Gary, I sent you a PM. Figure out transfer logistics. Let's coordinate moving it sometime around 21st of this month. Maybe I can get it out of the way earlier, I'll call someone this morning and move it after the $$$ clears your account. Thanks!

Bad premise... F54/P90 STOCK BUILD. Trash the turbo and get a proper one. Have the head ported and cammed properly. Tune to 400HP and 7000 rpms. Pull Gasket and head, inspect for detonation signs. Have CP pistons cut to match combustion chamber in head...and at 7.9-8.0 to one. If they are just dished flat tops without a combustion chamber shape sell them to somebody else, you don't want them. Buy another set with a proper mirrored image dish in the crown. From there, tune from 7000 to redline and terminal horsepower which should easily be around 500 hp at 7.800 if using a GT35X with 8 psi of boost. Nice ride.

Funny thing is, many people's 'stock' is faster than many others "fast"... beware what you do, quantifying performance from a bad baseline is money poorly spent.

Compliance is not as difficult as it sounds. The trick in most cases is having the VIN information from the swapped vehicle as a reference. Basically take it into a referee station (your swap I'm assuming was done using two 49 state donor vehicles) and present the vin for the donor vehicle. The Referee can print out the required items you must have on the vehicle to pass. While it says you have to use the fuel tank, etc...in reality it's the mechanisms for EVAP control and fuel cap that are listed on that print out, if the FD has them then generally it will pass as acceptable. The Catalyst is considered a 'chassis' item,but since the FD had one, you will need the same on the LS you install. The testing they will do it to 49 State Standards, not CA standards. Any modifications you have such as headers will need to have a CARB EO number...have them all on a clip board to present and make it easy for them. The easier it is for them to see it's compliant, the more likely they will not get too picky on minute details that are only technical violations if the function is proper (like the FD fuel tank having the right cap, similar to the LS donor...not actually needing the LS donor tank and cap.) Really, it sounds hard when you read it, but if you do a complete and professional swap it should pass fairly easily. With the TunerCat Studio, you can have all the performance programs filed, and the stock burn put in at any time for a Smog Check. . .

You can dig up an old ARA or Frigiking installation booklet, they all are about the same thing. Whereas, with a 260/280Z, the instructions for converting from Non A/C Heater to Heater with A/C are in the appropriate section of the 260Z FSM!

JeffP had his L28ET manifold Extrude-Honed. It was about 2mm smaller is diameter than the head ports. His head flowed 224 cfm on the intake side, the number dropped roughly 10% when the Extrude-Honed stock manifold was fitted. The stock manifold is VERY well matched to the stock ports flow characteristics.

This was sans-catalyst, BTW... If you got a catalyst on it, you're just loading the core with HC and likely melting it down. Forewarned is fore-armed!

EuroZXT was 20bhp more than US-Spec (180 vs 200) No ECCS just simple pressure retard, vacuum advance E12-80 dizzy and a preprogrammed EFI box, oile cooler like the Auto Turbos got in the USA, and an 0.82 A/R on the hot side for extended high speed operation. 200HP in an L-Series was a factory offering! Never, ever forget that!

$15,000 head and he's worried about a $1,500 ECU? LOL Even a MOTEC is hard pressed to break $5K!

It's a Japanese Market Spec. There are specs published that relate the 72, 74, 76, 78 timing events. Nobody ran a 72 unless it was grandmas' car. Everybody in Japan seemed to start with a 74 as minimum street build.

^^^^Now I wonder where that "Vacation in SoCal and CFR Rinkens" advice came from?

If you google 'cfr rinkens' they will show right up...