Tony D

We know where we all want this conversation to go:

You can physically stick it in the tailpipe with a bracket and it will work. If it's self-heated (all WBO2's that I know of are now) then it will work virtually anywhere in the exhaust system.

Merge at the bottom of the pipe where it comes together. I put mine in the header collector.

"I'm Pittsburg Slim, and Paducah Fine!"

I bought a 2002 F150 two years ago in Canfield Ohio (49-State Legal Vehicle). Drove it to CA after a brief stop in my dad's garage in Upper Michigan to do some plenum bushing repairs and degunked the EGR while inside there.... Drove 7,500 miles and straight into the SMOG Shop to register it.... guy ran the test FOUR times because it tested SO clean. There is NO requirement that you have CA Emissions on a car registered in CA. New vehicles, yes.... Current models with less than 7,500 miles on it, yes. They make you jump through hoops. But on run-of-the-mill vehicles over a given age, and above 7,500 miles there is no retrofit requirement, nor restriction or penalty to pay. As JC says, if it's all in place and functioning, it should pass fine. They will test to 49 State (Federal) specifications, not CA specifications, same as on my F150.

The stock system already uses a return line and calibrated orifice to allow for variable fuel pressure at variable RPM/Load Conditions. Have you removed the FO and gone with a deadheaded fuel rail or something? Why would you need a fuell pressure regulator with the stock setup?

Don't be misled, you likely make more power at 5300 with the L28 than you do at 6500 with the L24. It's misleading like a turbo because it's pulling so hard when it pulls, when that torque starts falling off, you think it's a big loss....when in fact your terminal speed is actually higher, and was achieved in a shorter time than with the smaller engine.

Power Peak of L28 is at 5,300 rpms and is normally geared accordingly. Swap the cam from the L24 into the L28, and it runs like the L28. Case Closed! Better yet, get a good aftermarket cam and it will pull harder and right up to 6800 no issues....

Or, your gasket isn't crushed properly and indeed you have a leak out of one or both of the oil passages the head gasket seals going from block to head. Run it...if it's a leak it will continue and you may need a retorque or completely new gasket. If it stops in short order, it was 'residual' and move on... Without better description or photos.....the thread is useless.

White dudes with grey in their beards... Again.

It's a "Roadster Sender", people have been using those as replacements for the later units for years.

No No No Better read up on 'rotor mass in relation to braking efficiency'! A more considered and prudent suggestion: Porterfield R4S pads and matching shoes in back properly adjusted, with Motul RBF650 fluid combined with those 'wider wheels/tires' and don't upset anything in the mix. My stock brake system with the above combination can easily flat spot sticky "A" compound tires, 245 in front, 265 in back and pull my up onto the belts at 100mph with hard application after repeated stops. It has worked on mine pushing a bit more than 300 'at the crank'... Consider that John Morton was running the stock stuff in SCCA winning races with 325 crank HP... Most 'brake fade' in S30's is due to bad fluid, cheap pads, and misadjusted rear brakes.... Try those three first and be amazed. Unless you're running Lemans, or more than 30 minute track-day sessions you're meddling with a mix that works well when properly and competently maintained.

Got that same one on my laptop...

Try using PLDT on a router you think is bad already, in the infrastructure after a Cat4 Typhoon (Cat5 Hurricane in USA...) Add to that being apparently able to log on in another site on the same device... And only now getting the Tech out to tell me my Cisco router "might be incompatible" (BS!) and eventually they reset the line switching and viola! Access again. I knew it wasn't my stuff, just junk in the lines. Need more compressed air and a good blowdown!

Make a Spitfire-Style Radiator Box and flow-through ducting.... Maybe one of those F5000 Style Ducts on the roof... Yeah, I can see that... yeeeeaaahhh....

This is a "replace" item, not a "repair" item.

The Nemesis of the Government: "Fat Old White Dudes with Large Beards who can Shorten Cables." Pull in there, you get on The List...

About any local small general aviation airport will have the ability to make about any cable you want if the outer cover is intact and reuseable. Basically what the above post did, they can do....being for aircraft, it's not done in a hinkey manner.

Why don't you offer him $5K and make a trip? Pulling an engine and dragging two cars to the local junkyard before heading back with the Fairlady on a trailer loaded with spares is a hell of a lot easier Montana to SD than from So Cal. I'm thinking three day weekend, maybe four, tops! He said he would take all offers even low balls. I'd buy it if I was stateside and had the time to get it!

There was a CAT5 port on the box? That would have been a clue up front! Interesting, I shall. Have to review this closer after work!

Subtract that 2mm head gasket and where does it go?

I think the design consensus is a quench area promoting tumbling homogenization in the combustion chamber and faster burning is a good thing. More power with less ignition lead, important at higher rpms.

Nice write up. Thanks!

I thought Iwas fairly complete.

Magistrate leans over your shoulder in the Mobile County Office and says "Put a few witnesses on that bill of sale, then you won't have any questions getting your tags." and walk on...