Pharaohabq

Ahh, Okay, so you're just needing a signal for the speedo. Well where does the signal come from in the Donor car? Often they have signal wheels on the Differential. A Hall effect reader reads the pulses. On your car, do you have anything similar already in place? You may be able to swap in a Subaru or another Differential that has the sensors and wheels. Failing that, there are aftermarket signal boxes that you can setup to read the bolts on your driveshaft to output a digital signal for your speedo.

Great! Glad to hear it has started. what'd you do for the Exhaust? you Interior guy did a pretty good job on the Dash and doors. I'm liking how they stuck with the original Design patterns. . what I was saying about the other engine is that you don't need all new parts, if you reconditioned the block and replaced the rings and bearings, The DET engine may still be workable.

Lots of people have used 3d printers to make moulds for plastics, but that's not really the issue. Most of it is Volume. The higher volume printers are much more expensive. Smaller machines can make smaller parts, but then we're limited in materials. For the Pyrex glass slumping, We need Stainless because the glass needs to heat to between 1200 deg and 1700 deg. The metal will heat evenly and should not warp while the glass fills in the shape. The Stainless then has to cool over several hours with the glass to allow for it to cool and not shatter. it's a fun way of doing it. If I had the $ I'd have a commercial company make them, but I'd still have to buy the moulds which are usually 3d Milled in stainless, we're talking major $$$$. 3d sintered moulds would be much cheaper. Sadly I'd need a left and a right both two parts, Top and bottom Plates. Quite some volume to Sinter. So I better go buy a lottery ticket.

Nice, What 3d Printer do you have? I've got a Prusa and an i3. I do a little design work. You can also inkjet onto 1mm white plastic. Pretty cool. I wouldn't mind a copy of the design files.

Really, That "Drives like a Turd" expression is going to really depend on you. Your 96' is much more comfortable than the S30 started out as. There's 20 years between the two and in the Z32 Nissan really wanted to make a flagship of a car so they put a lot into the Z31's and Z32's. The S30's were built as cheap sports car that would blow the more expensive cars of the day off the track, and that's what they did, but to keep cost down Datsun didn't do a lot more than they had to, and unfortunately didn't use the best steel in the bodies. That being said, the S30's really carved their nitch in the US and world markets. They are not underpowered, especially if you upgrade the EFI to a modern MAP based system. The L28 Is a workhorse. If you're going to stick with the L24, then I'd definitely recommend going with a rebuilt set of SU's or better a set of triple Mikuni's. I doubt you'll be unset about it. But really before you spend the money, and get annoyed/discouraged/excites/gisyourpants Go check with your local Z club and find someone with a 240Z and take a ride. If that doesn't do it for you, consider an engine swap. The VQ Swap can get you near 300HP w/o a turbo. V8 swaps are fun too. it's really up to you. I know My 92' Z32NA is the slowest of the running Z's in my local Z club. But it's my daily.

It's just a piece of hose. I believe it's something like 9/16 ID hose. You can buy it by the foot at Autozone etc. All it does is connect the crankcase back to the intake to reburn some of the fumes that leak past the cylinders. Some people just put an air filer on it and leave it. I believe running it back into the intake is best. Clocker is right, you're not looking at a PCV valve, that's just a hose barb. The goo inside is oil that's blown out of the valve cover. It's no big deal, it's too little to be of importance. It san be hard on your seals if that gets pinched off. The L28 and the L24/L26 are mostly the same engine, the biggest difference is that most L28's were fuel injected.

Wow, that's some cost for parts from the US, though I'd imagine it'd be cheaper to have the local Nissan dealer order direct from Japan. In any case, if the engines are that much cheaper used, then keep going with that. You don't have to replace all the pistons and such, you may just need rings and bearings. But it's hard to say what else those engines would need. The lower compression in the DET engine is to help control detonation. it can work at 10:1, but you won't be able to run much boost at that compression. The tune will then make the biggest difference. Do you know if that compression difference is in the rods, the pistons, or the crank? Possibly some combination. I don't think the block is different, only the internals. Perhaps you can reuse some of the DET parts to bring down the compression on the DE block. Though if you get into that, you're back to new bearings/rings etc since you'd have them out already.

It is the VQ35HR engines that have electric VV Exhaust Timing starting in late 2006. The VQ35DE engines only had the variable timing on the intake. The Variable Exhaust timing was indeed carried over to the VQ37HR engines but advanced to VVEL. Most of this is included if you get the stock wiring and modules from the Donor at the same time as the engine. Certainly you should try to get as much as you can from the same Donor vehicle. It's much more expensive to get parts from multiple sources. At the minimum to run a VQ35, you need the ECU/BCU Engine, engine compartment, and main dash harnesses, and the Key/NATS Antenna. You can live without the Gauges and AC amp if you don't want to use stock. The NATS delete does work, but it's more expensive than getting the BCU/KEY and NATS antenna. There's a lot of plugs, but most only plug in one way so it's not too hard if you get the FSM for the Donor. The idea of using the VQ35HR heads on a VQ40 block is intriguing, but What EMS would be used to run it? I wonder if the stock VQ35 ECU etc could be used and tweaked to work.

Well if it's Oil I'd suspect the head, though hopefully it's not a broken ring. If you take off the head, you can inspect the cylinder looking for anything carved out, or gouged in the walls, if there is, then it's the rings. if not then likely it's that head. It's hard to say tho, w/o seeing it. Also, if you have the head rebuild, use the ford Vitron valve seals, they're a bit better than the stock Datsun ones. There's a thread on here about them somewhere.

Look under the car while someone is turning the wheel back and forth, do you see the rack moving side to side? If so then yes you need to replace those bushings. If not, then don't worry about it. You can just do them at the same time that you replace the rest of the bushings. I'd be more concerned with the tension rod bushings. Those being bad will allow a lot of steering slop. Tie rod ends: you can chock your steering wheel and jack up the front and wiggle the front tire back and forth to see how good those ends really are. Really an alignment shop should be able to tell you what you need, if they're honest they won't screw you over.

As I said, DL the FSM it's free on the net. Look at XenonS30.com, Again It sounds like a vacuum leak.. It's possible it could be your Temp sensor though, since if it's reading way off the ecu could be telling it to dump extra fuel. A temp sensor is cheap. But the FSM has the test procedures in it so start there!

You should search and Download the FSM and fuel injection guide. all the info is in there. That being said, it sounds like a vacuum leak to me. Just unplug the CS injector after it's warmed up and see how it's running.

I don't see anything Brembo in any of the pictures. the Rear pots look like maybe Z32, but it's hard to tell.

if you buy a remanufactured engine, a lot of time they're missing the accessories. The harness doesn't usually include the ECU. It is still possible to find a complete donor for cheap. With reman.com does it also include the exhaust, the turbo the rubber hoses? There's a lot of unknowns with both methods, just don't be in a rush to buy an engine, you've got time to look around. Especially since you won't get to work on it for years, long after any warranty is done.

Well for a "crate engine" you'll be looking at a rebuilt one since they haven't made these engines in many many years. Companies like Rebello can certainly hook you up with an L28et that's tested tried and true, warranty included. But it'll cost ya! The better solution is to source an 82' turbo and go from there, preferably running in the donor if at all possible. That being said, they're becoming rare too, so whatever you can find is good, just make sure it's as complete as possible with harnesses, sensors and ECU. Having the Donor will help emmensly, in that you can just move things over as a system and be able to label things as you go. Look up the plugs 1, 2 and 3 and so you know what will need to be swapped. There are few diagrams out there. So yes, a donor is preferred, but a Turnkey is beautiful, with an ugly pricetag.

Wow, well I'm glad that your heat issue was the radiator, though I wonder what gummed it up, they must have poured crap in there at some point. I think that'd be a good choice, especially for the low cylinder, You said you squirted oil in there and it didn't make a difference. So that's not a good sign. But having someone else double check your work is probably worth it. Next time you pull the head I'd really recommend replacing those head bolts. last thing you'd want to do is snap one of those. The leakdown will tell you about the same info, but how fast it leaks will tell you top or bottom end. Either way you're pulling the head to fix it. If you have to just pop out that one cylinder that's not too bad either, you can do it w/o removing the crank. Pull the head and the oil pan, then unbolt the rod on the bottom, the with a soft mallet and a piece of wood, just pop the piston out the top. Gap and replace the rings, hone that cylinder and pop it back in place. It's just as easy to replace the bearings and rings for all the cylinders if you're going to do one, but be sure to use the plasitgauge stuff to make sure the bearings are good. N again don't mix them up between rods. best to replace stuff with new while you have the engine open.

I'd download the FSM for the S30 and for the S130 and familiarize myself with all the wiring. Really really familiar, then when you see the threads talking about plugs 1 2 and 3 , then you'll know what they're talking about. It's really not too hard a swap, but you'll need to know what to grab from the donor and what you don't need. Make notes, print stuff out. Use dropbox.com or something to keep your files since you don't know where you're going to be over the next few years. From there, soon as you get back, you can procure a donor and get to work.

I was reading a bit more about the Thermotime. IT is just a switch that opens after heating for 15 seconds. so conceivably you could pull loose the wires and ground the one going to the Cold Start then when you try to start the car the Cold start injector would run. BUT if you crank it longer than say 15 seconds, you could flood the engine. But if it started right up, you'd know for sure it's your Thermotime. That's not the recommended test in the manual, but if you're out freezing and trying to start the thing then it might be worth trying. If you have a meter the pin to ground is the line from the CS injector. If you ground the wrong one it is possible you could burn something up. So use caution, and maybe a 10A fuse. Injectors on the L28 open when grounded. it looks like it's connector 46. the male spade from the CS injector. Anyone ever try this?

Exactly, the Cold start and Thermotime can really make starting in the cold difficult. These are detailed in the 280Z EFI Addendum here: L28 EFI Addendum Basically, the Cold start acts like a Choke, putting more fuel into the engine when cold, the Thermotime, depending on temperature will open the cold start injector of a short period then close it so keep the car from flooding. Now if it's not opening the Cold start injector, then it would make it difficult to start, just as it would if it was keeping that injector open too long and flooding the engine. The Cold start injector only operates while the starter is cranking. I believe the Thermotime opens the injector at ~45o and only keeps it open for about 12 seconds before it heats up and closes the ColdStart injector again. There are test procedures for the Thermotime, but if you have a Z junkyard, you could just swap it out. I'm not sure if it's still available from Nissan. Usually that Cold start injector doesn't go bad, it's almost always the Thermotime. The Thermotime is mounted on the thermostat housing, see the manual. Phar

Hmm that's unfortunate about the car having been hit, At least it wasn't bad enough that it was obvious that it had happened. Putting it on the Jig should align everything well enough that it won't ever be an issue. It's not nice to find surprises. Always more $$, no to repair it are they going to pull that Rad support out and fix the wrinkled metal, or are they just going to smooth things as best they can? If he's got parts cars, it may be easier to have him just replace the sections again. Perhaps the whole front, forward of the swap bar mounts? it's up to you how much you'd want him to do, and what you can live with, but in a full restore, knowing it's right is priceless. Please tell us what you're using for your big brakes? It looks like slotted vented calipers, maybe Z31, I'm not certain. I can't identify the calipers, but they look similar to the Skyline calipers, the picture isn't clear enough. What was wrong with the rear brakes? What kit did you buy, and what did you find was wrong with it? Thanks Phar

It's hard to say for certain, but your spreadsheet shows wire #11 blue/red and wire #12 Blk/White as going to the Fuel Pump Relay, If that's the case and these wires went to the missing <Plug 3> then #ECU+ (thicker green) could go to Pin 16 on the ECCS, for the neutral safety switch and . I really think you're right, that these are the wires that went to Plug 3. The Yellow looks like the Water temp and the White looks like the AC Fan relay Also from Plug 3. If you look at the 83 ZXTurbo wiring diagram here, at the bottom right shows plugs 1, plug 2 and plug 3. Plug 1 is a Power Green and a Brown, which could be Your #9 and #10 Looks like it's actually <Plug 1> Fusible link the #10 and #9 together and you should have fuel. Assuming the pump is connected at the other end. That green box is the EFI (fuel pump) Relay. I assume you've already downloaded the ZXTS130 FSM's from here: S130 280ZXT. Too bad you're so far away, or I'd help you figure it, or at least get it moved to a storage facility.

Plug 2 is the ZXT female plug in Cygnus' Drawing. Plug 3 also appears to be the 280z female plug in his drawing.

Try the MSA 240Z fusebox upgrade, it might be compatible since yours is an early 260. You may have to do some splicing if it doesn't just plug in. Aside from that, you could find another from a wrecked 260... that or maybe upgrade to a Painless wiring harness.

okay, Crazed gunowner, that's probably enough to deter me. Really though I'd be real interested to find what Subset of Key codes they actually used. I know my last 3 S30's all had codes starting with 5xxx, but that could be a coincidence. One was broken so you could start it with any key. Apparently it's not hard to break the pins. My VQS30 I'm swapping in the whole 350Z steering column and using the 350Z key so I shouldn't have that issue.

I'm still trying to figure why they would have just welded new metal over the rusted out metal. That just completely doesn't make any sense. This new body shop sounds like they've got the extra parts to get you fixed up. Though the parts are still relatively rare where you are and where the car is being repaired, so that won't be cheap. if you need more, I think I already sent you the name of the Z recycler here. He sends parts all over the world. This is starting to look like more than just a slide past the local regs build and much more a full restore-mod. It looks like the Engine shop is doing a great job. I'm impressed by the #'s the engine put down NA. As for the noise, perhaps you could just swap mufflers every couple years. Did you ever check into getting exceptions on any of the inspections?