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Hi Guys: The fuel injection is a combination of Accel DFI, GM sensors and Jaguar mechanicals. If you are looking for a body you could look through the OZC website. Occasionally a descent car pops up. Who knows you might even join the club. They have an good swap meet in spring that is worth attending. You could always go south and import one. Once you get into it, you will find as most on this site do, that these cars respond very well to modification. I have never regretted any of the changes performed on my car over the many years I have had it. Good luck with your search. Cheers …:::Glenn

Hey jonzer12: That's me what can I do for you? ...:::Glenn

Hi Pete: Last winter I did a search and found a member in Phoenix who was running with an aluminium Griffin crossflow rad with a Taurus fan. He said it ran with out problems with the air on in heavy traffic. One heck of an endorsement! I put one in front of my V12 with a two speed Volvo fan and have yet to get it over 180 in ninety plus weather. It saved me about six inches of 4 core brass and coolant…. A minor weight savings but something. http://www.griffinrad.com/start.php Cheers…:::Glenn

Hey Forrest: Any chance we can see a big picture of your car? The color looks great! Thanks...:::Glenn

I used the center sump pan when I had mine. The truck pump may be a good too if it drops the motor lower. I had to notch the hood latch bracket to get the motor far enough back. I found that the “A†body (Dart and early “Cuda) bell housing worked best as the pivot fork is lower and interferes less with the floor. Use the Z hydraulics with an aluminium spacer on the slave. It was faster than what I have now. Cheers …:::Glenn

Mike: You be careful over there and we’ll talk to you some time after Christmas Cheers …:::Glenn Neil: I love the picture of the Hot rod. The Keisler page is pretty nice. They have some sharp looking stuff. The five speed could have saved me a ton of work. Tonight my spine was tingling until I saw the trail of white smoke from the back. I blew TWO head gaskets. Number one and twelve cylinders let go. I cracked the compression part of the head gasket that sits on the liner. I could see cracking one but not two at the same time and so far apart. The heads were milled and tightened down to spec. The gaskets are Clough& Wood from England. Somehow I suspect not the best quality. So the search is on for new/better ones. I better get back to working on it. Cheers…:::Glenn

Room for turbos? On the steering side, I measured from behind the shock tower and there is enough room for a 9 inch diameter tube that will go back to the brake master. Not a lot of room. Between the shock tower and the engine there is enough room for a 5†tube all the way forward. There is enough room for six 1½†pipes, in two clusters, between the engine and the steering. It is the same on the Passenger side with the exception that the 8†diameter space goes back to the fire wall. Lots of room for a turbo. For the rad… I put mine ahead of the rad support make room for the electric fan behind. There is still room for an intercooler up front. Another idea worth considering is moving the engine back 6†to 8 “ by removing the heater and modifying the fire wall. But this involves the controversy of butchering the car. Fuel injection… http://www.kinsler.com/ is a good place for ideas. He is pricy though. His quote in '97 to make butterfly plates like those used in the XJ13 was over $1500. Sounds like you have done your transmission research. Bell housing… sss510 is on this site. His aluminium bell housing is a good idea. They are not hard to build. http://photos.yahoo.com/sss510six I couldn’t resist putting this in. Bugatti V16 quad turbo 987 hp Cheers...:::Glenn

nice bellhousing... i tip my hat to you...

Mike: This reply is going to be long winded so go grab a beer. I think you could fit dual turbos in the engine compartment of a V12Z. Get me the measurements of one and I will let you know for sure. The main problem I foresee is getting the cooled IC air back to the motor . There are no more holes up front for the plumbing. I have to agree with Dan about the carb in a box trick. It would be well worth your while to read up on injection. You can do a lot more with it than you can with carbs. Also like Dan, I too knew very little about FI until I started this project. I would recommend reading “Fuel Injection by Jeff Hartman. Motorbooks international.†This guy put three screws on a straight six jag. He also tells about his failures along the way. You are a gifted welder… I know you could do this with the help of the people on this board. Is this tranny going to hold together? Pete: “Full fiberglass body except roof, with V12/T56/Vette diff 3200 lbs. 5.3L 11:1 compression, 380+ hp 13.78 1/4 mile ET†I know what you’re thinking. I should explain some things. I don’t believe that Fiberglas parts save any weight. The parts weigh just about the same as the metal ones. My thought was, they just make custom work easier and they solve the corrosion problem. The frame for the car was designed with the eventuality of a Chev big block swap. It has connectors from the engine mounts to the rear-end mounts. The door sills are boxed. Everything is heavy duty. Then there is the Vette diff…this thing weighs a ton. I try to tell any one who is contemplating a Vette diff to stay away. The are better/ lighter ways available now. I guess what I’m trying to say is that the car is heavy, not the motor. I weighed the car in July ’98 and it came out to 3140lbs with a 340 / 833 4spd. I weighed it again on Sept ’99 and it came out to 3220lbs with a V12/T56. The trannies weigh the same at 116 lbs. There is also an extra gallon of oil and an extra gallon of coolant the motor uses to consider. The 1/4 mile time is the result of my unique racing style. I raced with one of my teenaged kids strapped to the passenger seat with the tools, spare and cooler in the back. He had that goofy grin on his face for a month. I wasn’t the only one running with his kid that day. This was not a serious racing day. It is the only slip I can produce. I’m sure a stripped car would be quicker. “One of the reasons Jags That Runs exists is because of the insanely high price of Jag V-12 parts and rebuild costs. Once one of these engines go, rebuilding it is a VERY expensive enterprise. Hence people dropping Chevy V8's into V12 Jags.†I don’t replace the parts with store bought ones. It is cheaper to buy a spare motor and use those parts. The reason Jags don’t run is because a 4500 lb car with a 273 rear WILL NOT run. I bought my motors off a guy who put in the JTR kit with a LT1/ 700R4 and he had to finished it off with a differential swap so it would “runâ€. I blew 4 pistons and liners when I ran lean with a dirty fuel filter at high speed and melted some plug tips. It was repaired with the motor in the car. The liners slide out and the new ones slide in. Pistons and liners $100 used and new gaskets $80. I guess it is like anything else…once you get into something you become networked and the prices begin to drop. I hope this dispels some of the misconceptions about the V12 I spent a long time sipping beer and looking at the motor/ tranny setup like you have pictured there Mike. When it was ready to install one of my friends looked at it. He said it looked nice and that it was a shame to put it in the car. Cheers…:::Glenn

If you build it, it will haul... it's easier then you think...

I have been reading the “rules of rice†links for a while now. I fail to understand how putting down another person’s tastes in auto modifications can improve anything. Anyone who shells out hard earned cash to improve their ride has done research, at least in their own mind and are trying their best to stand out from the crowd. As a father of kids with cars I encourage instead of discourage any modification my kids or their friends bring over. It has taken me a while to adjust my mind set to new Japanese hot rod. It has been hard at times to bite my tongue when I see something really stupid. If you give them a couple of years the rides they have really do improve. They wouldn’t if the kids were constantly put down. As for the rules of rice…rules were made to be broken. Cheers…:::Glenn

that looks like snow to me!

Hi 2Forty: I believe innerware has a valid point. I started working on my Z at about the same time I started my family. Supporting a wife, three kids and a mortgage, money was scarce…well you know the song. With some ingenuity and plenty of spare time you can network parts and accomplish many of the tasks yourself. It sounds like you are on the right track already by cleaning up the underside/inner parts. You do however have one very special gift… the support of those around you. Cheers…Glenn

I used a unit called the RB2120 in an older lt1 when the gears were changed in the rear. It can alter the singnal sent to the computer when the pusles don't match. The sensor for the rear wheels came from the speedo sensor back then. http://www.specmo.com/Corporate/Calibration/calibration.html

Hi George: You might want to search this sight for a thread on water injection. I found that a Edeldrock water injection kit was a good cure for a big block I had put together with a bit too much squeeze. I doubt the kit is still around but there might be something out there. Cheers: Glenn

When I fist put my V12 together in '99 I had investigated a few systems. I chose the accel dfi at the time for it’s ease of use, reasonably low price and the fact that parts and answers are fairly local. It made tuning the 12 easy. At the time I knew little about injection. The newer, Gen 7 system looks fairly simple. You could download the software and check it out. I’m sure other systems work as well or better but this is the one that worked out for me. I picked up a used one for $700 USD. Cheers …:::Glenn http://www.mrgasket.com/dfimain.html

Mines a woody!

Hey Scott. Remember we are still using winter gas up here. It boils at a much lower temp. I have had problems with this in the past. The fuel would boil in the rails…the hot spot on my motor. The insulation is still a good investment. Glenn…your friendly neighbourhood tanker driver

Vapours can work there way into the return line by way of fuel pump cavitation on a hot spring day. It is a problem in place where they run winter gas (10% alcohol) but should be unheard of in the south. I would think that air wouldn’t be a problem if the lines were not to close in the tank.

15X8 wire rims..very heavy, but classic

Simply fantastic! Where do you keep coming up with this stuff?

very fine work that is...

Pinto! That was my very first engine swap. 289 4 speed car with a mustang rear. What a joke. The motor sat so far ahead in the engine bay that there was no weight on the back wheels. I could smoke that snow tire for miles. The really sad part was that the $400, old donor car was a ’68 Mustang fast back in not all that bad of shape. I had scrapped the Bullit car.

I must be one of the old men here. My car is older than most of you. I have two kids going into university next year, three in high school and one life school car nut. I myself would like to go back for my millwright certification if I could find the funds.

T M I would be nice but it leaks and I just resurfaced my driveway.