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@GavinG, if you don't find one here; I would also check on ClassicZCars: https://www.classiczcars.com/

Agreed! It's looking great....can't wait to see what kind of wild bodywork you have planned for it.

Ah, that explains it. I was wondering if that was part of the reason....thanks for clarifying!

Apex's choice of carriage bolts is unusual....can't say I've ever seen really seen them used in custom suspension builds before. Do you think they were chosen for convenience, with the self-locking features in the mounting brackets? Great progress.....really enjoying your updates! Keep 'em coming!! 👍👍

Wow, cool stuff. That's a real bummer about the AE kit, considering the investment; but I guess this approach gives you the freedom to go wild and do whatever you want! I like your idea of an adjustable blade-style sway bar...this has been on my to-do list for a couple years, and just haven't gotten around to it. You may want to consider the NASCAR-style mounting, above the engine. Makes the adjustment linkages and hardware a lot easier to engineer and fabricate. Good luck with it!! 👍👍

Welcome to the forum, and congratulations on your new purchase. She looks like a beauty...the late-model 280 with a 5 speed is a desirable combination for a street car that gets driven often. While not as functional as the usual heavy 5mph bumpers, the thin bumpers are much nicer looking IMHO. I'd be interested to know what differential the car has (an R200 would be nice, but certainly not necessary). Unless you're planning to upgrade the front brakes and get a larger master cylinder (and track the car), rear disc brakes are really not necessary. The stock aluminum drum brakes on the rear are more than adequate for any street driving...and even the occasional auto-x or time trial event. There are several good discussions here on how to maximize performance from the stock rear drums. Lots of good forums and groups on social media for the S30; but another forum I like is ClassicZCars.com, especially for information on original restorations. Good luck with your planned mods & upgrades, and please keep the updates coming!! 👍

Looking good. Seems like that's always some of the most rewarding parts of any resto....getting all those hard-to-access areas cleaned up, rust repaired, straightened/strengthened/reinforced, and freshly painted. 👍

WOW!! That is slick!! The car's coming along nicely! 👍👍

It's been a long time since I've fiddled with OEM wiring; but the hazard switch circuitry is integral with the turn signal wiring....meaning if you change one, by definition you've changed the other. You didn't specify if you've completely replaced original wiring with a Painless harness; or only partially replaced. You also didn't specify which year and model car you've got; but IIRC these portions of the harnesses only changed wire color from year to year....the overall wiring concept did not. The attached linked schematic should help you either way; and you'll have to adjust accordingly based on your current wiring configuration. Hope this helps. If not, reply with additional details, and maybe even some photos if they would help illustrate your issue.

Welcome back, Carlton...and congrats on the major life changes/accomplishments! Following, as I'm super interested to hear how about the installation and how you like it. Thanks for documenting the process! 👍

Welcome to HybridZ, and thanks for your question. Please feel free to introduce yourself and your car on our "New Members Forum": https://forums.hybridz.org/forum/68-new-members-forum/ Are you looking for something like this? Note the exemption in the text "*Not for digital dash on 280ZX." -- don't know if that applies to your car. (I'm guessing not, since your current sensor is single wire.) https://zcardepot.com/products/coolant-temperature-sensor-one-piece-240z-260z-280z-280zx?variant=19278308016241&currency=USD&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=google%2Bshopping&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=17820837536&gclid=Cj0KCQjwvajDBhCNARIsAEE29WoDT0QZie4ihN9KbIOfGu197wEIp5SP7gYahzfJ4Ta0qhc9CthVys4aArmBEALw_wcB#

One of these. There's a bunch of different styles and shapes to suit your specific needs/application. https://www.kohls.com/product/prd-6332796/connect-extendable-grip-mount.jsp?skuid=62689230&CID=shopping30&utm_campaign=IMPULSE&utm_medium=CSE&utm_source=google&utm_product=62689230&utm_campaignid=20502647405&CID=shopping30&utm_campaign=SSC&utm_medium=CSE&utm_source=google&utm_campaignid=20502647405&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=20151170307&gclid=CjwKCAjwmenCBhA4EiwAtVjzmmGsgHEr2FxdndBlsr7nvJ-AyaHRjwm2Psbg3FGAyHRbKSoYI6ckFRoCuIEQAvD_BwE

Update: these have been taken, and are NLA. Thanks, G-Tech...hope they are useful for you!

You probably already know this; but most folks like to add a good amount of bracing to the steering shaft bracket/mounting. The additional weight of the electric motor mechanism can cause flex in the stock mounting bracketry. Easier to add the bracing now, when you've got the interior stripped vs later. Are you sure you want this additional weight & complexity in your dedicated track car? In addition to that, some of the power steering systems induce a vagueness in the steering feel, particularly near-center.

Wow, that's frustrating. Is there possibly another shop in the area that can take your car, and be more proactive in finding a creative solution for you?? Sounds like there's going to be bodywork involved, no matter which spoiler/air dam you select.

Some more info would be helpful: a photo of car as it currently sits, a "style" of spoiler/air dam that you prefer (there's a bunch of them in all different styles and shapes), the manufacturer of the ZG flares you installed (do they also make a spoiler that is compatible with their flares?), which specific spoilers have you already tried that "didn't match up", etc. A word of caution: it's not at all uncommon for spoilers to have a poor initial fit; and require massaging to fit properly...either on the car's bodywork, or the spoiler itself, or both. I've given up on prefab air dams and just custom-fabricate my own now.

Still available.

True, but it's unusual to find people these days that don't have FB, IG, X, TikTok, etc, etc, etc social media accounts. (Personally, I'm only on FB...and not that often, either.) Big tech companies like Google make it easy for anyone to use one account to sign up for 8 others with the click of a button.

I'm with the others....that seems pretty high. A lot of sellers don't realize how little ROI they'll get for a FINISHED project car (never mind an UNFINISHED one). Don't know what specific drivetrain, if any, you're looking for; but here's a few good examples of good deals IMHO: https://www.facebook.com/groups/datsun240zclassifieds Before buying anything, be brutally honest with yourself: What's your budget (initial & total)? What are your mechanical skills? What do you want to do with the car? How far are you willing to travel to find one? Too many people don't go through this process before buying something, and as a result, are not happy with the results.

I do the same thing, and I think it has been effective to a degree. We're still getting a handful of new members every month that seem genuinely interested in the forum, and all the technical data contained therein. As most here have seen, one of our biggest challenges is that a lot of the "older" posts and discussion threads are NLA or contain broken hyperlinks, since Dan has had to rehost the forum a few times on different servers/different forum software, etc. Most of the social media crowd won't look beyond those broken links before giving up.

Good progress! At the risk of stating the obvious, hang on to that front crossmember even if you're not planning to use it yourself in the near term. You may decide you need it in the future; and if not, someone else surely will. They're getting harder to find in good condition these days.

Can't help with that specific question; but if you don't yet have the Factory Service Manual for your car, you can download free FSMs for all years here: https://www.xenonzcar.com/s30/fsm.html

Yep, that's a good mod. You can also get them from Bad Dog, or fab your own from appropriately-sized angle steel. https://www.baddogparts.com/store/product/1970-1978-240-260-280z-sway-bar-plates/ Additionally, I like to run the sway bar mounting bolts all the way through the frame rails. If you go this route, you also need to insert round tubing through the frame rails (to prevent the bolts from crushing the frame rail) and backing plates on the topside of the frame rail (to spread the load, similar to what the reinforcement plates are doing on the bottomside). This is a more involved modification, and not really needed for most street applications.

I think the OP said that the motor mount was obstructing the steering linkage.

Yes, he is; but he's not on this forum very much anymore. He's very active on FB; that might be your best bet if you're serious about purchasing one of his kits. (I have nothing to do with his business, but I do follow his builds from time to time.) https://www.facebook.com/groups/480008718866422/user/1349311394/ https://www.facebook.com/InvincibleExtremes