jhm

Welcome to the forum....glad to have you!! Wow, Apex Track Attack package -- you're obviously not afraid to drop some $ into this project. Looking forward to seeing how you like the results once it's finished. For the widebody kit, are you looking at ZTrix? John Washington, long-time member here, builds top-quality pieces and complete kits. This is his IMSA widebody kit: https://www.ztrix.com/fender-kits/imsa Cheers!!

When analyzing the wiring diagrams, pay attention to plug type and wire color (wire color *may* be off from year to year due to factory production considerations, but IME it's usually correct). If your car's a '71, those plugs are probably things like Choke Warning Light, Radio, Power Antenna, etc. Also, be mindful that the wiring for Automatics is different than for Manual Transmission. Welcome to the Forum!

The factory wiring varies from year to year, and model to model. What year and model S30 is your car? A Factory Service Manual (FSM) is invaluable; and they contain detailed wiring diagrams for the entire vehicle. If you don't yet have an FSM, you can download them free for all years at: https://www.xenonzcar.com/s30/fsm.html

Hey @fusion, I had similar issue last time I replaced my hatch weatherstripping. I did not do anything special in that area, and it hasn't been an issue since. The seal just conformed to fit over time...the seal 'bulb' looks like it's squashed a little thinner in that area. The hatch closes fine, and I haven't had any leaks (it's been several years). At the time, I think I used generic weatherstripping from Pep Boys; so maybe it's a different overall thickness than the Kia weatherstripping? Mine appears very similar to your pics, but I don't remember it causing any difficulty in closing the hatch. Sorry -- probably not much help to you.

Wow! That is INSANE, if it works as advertised. It has the potential to really speed up suspension and steering adjustments if so. Did some googling, and could only find manufacturer ads...it would be nice to see some real-world results. If I understand the literature correctly, the utility (and accuracy) of the device lies within the app for your phone. So when you purchase the "device" (just a plastic holder for your phone), you're also purchasing the app. Is that your understanding of it also, @kaibiagi? Thanks for posting this up!!

Exactly what @calZ said...please see #12 in the Classified Rules: P.S. Nice wheels! GLWS

Thanks for that! I used a Cal-Style gasket from VR on my windshield years ago, and have been happy with it -- fits pretty well, not overly-difficult to install, and no leaks. At the time, Vintage Rubber was the only vendor I could find with trimless Cal-Style gaskets in stock. It'd be nice if there were other vendors out there to choose from.

@Miles, thx -- was not aware that there was another vendor (besides Vintage Rubber) that produces the windshield and hatch glass gaskets without the metal trim groove. (Vintage Rubber calls this style seal "Cal Style".) I will have to look into that other vendor...any info that you can recall would be appreciated. @fusion, glad you were able to get it in finally. I'll probably be replacing my hatch glass seal sometime in the near future; so I'll keep your experience and Miles' recommendations in mind! 👍

FYI -- @Trentomobol hasn't been on the site since 2017. You could try sending him a PM, as they typically will be forwarded to their personal email (if it hasn't changed). Cool bit of Z car history there...anything you'd like to share about your Dad's business history would be welcome here!! Thanks for posting, and welcome to HBZ!

If you haven't already tried this, it might be worth disconnecting (unbolting) the tie rod ends from the steering knuckles to help isolate the issue. If it persists, then you can assume the issue is in the rack and/or steering column. If not, it's somewhere in the suspension. Just throwing out ideas here....

Ditto that -- had the same experience destroying two drill bits when drilling out my original steering knuckles. Became a moot point when I switched to quick-steering knuckles from Apex. The car's looking GREAT; good luck with the latest issue!

Lookin good, @A to Z! But I think you may have gotten your text and photos mixed up. I like that you installed the headlight covers without the rubber trim strip....I do mine the same way. To me, it's a much cleaner look; as long as one takes the time and effort to install the covers with a good fit, as they often need some trimming, "massaging", etc to achieve a nice tight fit on the headlight bucket. One small suggestion for your consideration: if you used the supplied phillips head screws to secure the covers to the mounting clips, consider replacing them with allen head screws. I know it's a tiny detail, but IMHO the allen head hardware looks more "mechanical" whereas phillips head looks more "household". Again, a tiny, tiny detail...and probably just a personal preference of mine. The car's looking great!! Always enjoy seeing photos of it. 👍👍

I'm running the -1437s, as well; and am not aware of anything better in the same price range. I'm sure you're familiar with the high-end stuff, like KW, MCS and Intrax -- nice hardware, but orders of magnitude more expensive. ☹️ Would be interested in what you learn, and eventually decide; if you wouldn't mind posting your results here as a follow-up. (If you don't mind my asking...what sway bar(s) are you running, with those spring rates? Tires? Thx.)

Welcome...glad you're able to join us! I'm sure you'll have a lot of interest from Members here; and you may want to consider advertising on ClassicZCars.com as well. Lots of highly experienced restoration enthusiasts frequent that site as well. https://www.classiczcars.com/

For starters, if you haven't already seen this FAQ thread, it may be of interest to you: https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/49194-differential-cv-lsd-hp-torque-r160-r180-r200-r230-diff-mount/#comments As madkaw pointed out, the casings are the same; but IIRC, the rear covers are different. The Subaru unit has an electrical plug/temp sensor on the differential cover where the Datsun fill plug is. Your pictures didn't display the rear cover, so check that first. Also, need to clarify what stub axles you have as madkaw explained, especially if you're wanting to convert from the stock half-shafts to aftermarket CV units. Did a quick Google search on your casing number, but the results didn't really indicate anything definitive. It is similar, but not an exact match, to a Nissan part number: https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-housing-final~38311-e4600.html If the diff is a Subaru unit, this is a super useful thread: https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2597453 From your second and third photos, it *appears* that you have a 3.36 CLSD diff. The car looks like it's built with some nice pieces, so good luck with it and have fun!

@Bakerz22, FYI -- the organic search tool on HybridZ kind of sucks. People usually have better luck using a Google search...just be sure to include "site:HybridZ.org" in your Google search string. (It usually works fine if you even just include the term "HybridZ" in your search string.) Glad you found what you needed! P.S. IMHO, I'd think 16x7 wheels would not require rolling the fenders....assuming they are zero offset, and you are not using any spacers/wheel adapters/etc. Choice of tire will be just as important to ensure no rubbing.

@Kennysgreen280zt, I think you're referring to this thread? It seems to have gotten buried over time; and perhaps we need to make it a Sticky or move it to the "FAQs" sub-forum. Cary, Dan...thoughts? @tube80z, @SuperDan

Cool stuff, Clark! I wonder how long it will be before people start asking if you'll produce more to sell! 😜

@Ryan C, is this what you're looking for? https://zcardepot.com/collections/weatherstripping/products/door-belt-moulding-rubber-wipe-repair-kit-240z-260z-280z?_pos=1&_sid=f86e5d6c0&_ss=r&variant=32203030167665

@Hasenbuhlerk, are you aware that you're responding to a discussion thread from 2010?

Wanted to share...figured folks here could see the humor/relate/etc/etc. Some interesting discussion followed that included several of our regular members and other active members of the Datsun "community". Enjoy... https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=10160533369901559&set=gm.7765589086809495&idorvanity=327981873903624

Welcome back, @woldsonnn...glad you're able to rejoin us! Like rturbo and Monzter said, a lot of the original crowd that made HybridZ such a great forum have moved on. Still have a bunch of great people here, and some really energetic newcomers. HBZ is still my first go-to for technical questions, and even the social media crowd recognizes this forum as a valuable resource for in-depth technical data. Good luck with your ZX resto!!

$150 is a steal — nice find! IMHO, the Autopower bar is the nicest roll bar produced for the Z…it’s what I’ve had in my last two cars. Thanks for the update!!

Oh, yeah...that's loose....REALLY loose. Silly question, but did you try tightening the 4 bolts that secure the coupler? You usually need to experiment with the right combination of box -end and open-end wrenches (because of the tight clearances and angularity of the joint). It also makes the job a lot easier if you rotate the steering shaft to get full exposure of each of the four nuts/bolts, as you tighten them. I do them in 180 deg pairings (like you would your lug nuts)....probably not necessary...just my engineering obsessive/compulsiveness. Glad you found the issue, and that it seems to be something cheap & easy to fix!

Nice-looking piece. Can I suggest you move your post to the Vendors' Forum? https://forums.hybridz.org/forum/27-vendors-forum/ Thank you.