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First off, welcome to the forum. While the purpose of this site is to discuss technical topics that pertain to the modification of the Datsun/Nissan Z cars (240Z, 260Z, 280Z, 300ZX, 350Z), we welcome car enthusiasts of all brands and manufacture. While you are perusing the forum, please take a few moments to familiarize yourself with forum Rules and Guidelines, found here: https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/111201-hybridz-forum-rules-read-now-before-posting/ Second, you are posting to a discussion thread that hasn't been active for over 20 years. Rather than "necroposting" on a 20-year old discussion thread, it may be more useful/productive to begin a new discussion thread for your specific/current issue. Finally, you may have more luck with your specific/current issue on a forum for Mazda cars or Mazda CX-5s. There seem to be a plethora of those -- a quick Google search yielded the following results: https://www.mazdaforum.com/forum/mazda-cx-5-54/ https://mazdas247.com/forum/categories/mazda-cx-5-forum.549/ https://www.cx5forum.com/ https://www.cx50forums.com/threads/cx-5-forum-all-new-forum.1407/ Not trying to discourage you from HybridZ; but any of these Mazda forums would probably yield more fruitful results in resolving your CX-5 technical issues and problems vs a forum dedicated to the Datsun Z sports car.

Just curious....what voltage levels do you have on the system when the engine is running? (And you may need to take readings at multiple points in the system to help narrow down where the problem(s) is/are.)

Chassis stiffening always a good thing. Here's a link to some good ideas, if you're looking for additional inspiration. https://imgur.com/a/chassis-stiffening-inspiration-R27sh

This might be helpful. Also, there are a couple vendors left that produce the rear inner axles necessary for a Subie R180 swap...but they have been drying up the last few years. Regarding backlash...that seems to be a forever issue with the R180. I've had significant play in every R180 I've owned, both open and LSD versions.

Did you use a different lower transmission mount when you swapped the automatic to T5; and if so, did it change the overall angle at which the engine/transmission sits? This could possibly make any components "forward" of the engine mounts sit higher in the engine compartment (relative to their original position). Can't think of any other reason why you'd have clearance issues now, vs no issues before the swap.

@Sandy455, glad to see you found what you needed. As a "Member", I'm not sure if you have the ability to Delete a post. Do you see a symbol (3 dots) in the upper right corner of your posts? If so, the drop-down menu should give you the options to "Edit", "Hide", "Delete", etc. If that doesn't work for you, I can "Hide" or "Delete" your post for you; but honestly, you may just want to leave it. Folks often refer back to old posts for reference or historical context. (e.g. Someone else in similar situation as you sees that @jeffer949 and @calZ have an N42 that they might be willing to part with.) LMK how you'd like to proceed.

Welcome to the forum....glad to have you!! Wow, Apex Track Attack package -- you're obviously not afraid to drop some $ into this project. Looking forward to seeing how you like the results once it's finished. For the widebody kit, are you looking at ZTrix? John Washington, long-time member here, builds top-quality pieces and complete kits. This is his IMSA widebody kit: https://www.ztrix.com/fender-kits/imsa Cheers!!

When analyzing the wiring diagrams, pay attention to plug type and wire color (wire color *may* be off from year to year due to factory production considerations, but IME it's usually correct). If your car's a '71, those plugs are probably things like Choke Warning Light, Radio, Power Antenna, etc. Also, be mindful that the wiring for Automatics is different than for Manual Transmission. Welcome to the Forum!

The factory wiring varies from year to year, and model to model. What year and model S30 is your car? A Factory Service Manual (FSM) is invaluable; and they contain detailed wiring diagrams for the entire vehicle. If you don't yet have an FSM, you can download them free for all years at: https://www.xenonzcar.com/s30/fsm.html

Hey @fusion, I had similar issue last time I replaced my hatch weatherstripping. I did not do anything special in that area, and it hasn't been an issue since. The seal just conformed to fit over time...the seal 'bulb' looks like it's squashed a little thinner in that area. The hatch closes fine, and I haven't had any leaks (it's been several years). At the time, I think I used generic weatherstripping from Pep Boys; so maybe it's a different overall thickness than the Kia weatherstripping? Mine appears very similar to your pics, but I don't remember it causing any difficulty in closing the hatch. Sorry -- probably not much help to you.

Wow! That is INSANE, if it works as advertised. It has the potential to really speed up suspension and steering adjustments if so. Did some googling, and could only find manufacturer ads...it would be nice to see some real-world results. If I understand the literature correctly, the utility (and accuracy) of the device lies within the app for your phone. So when you purchase the "device" (just a plastic holder for your phone), you're also purchasing the app. Is that your understanding of it also, @kaibiagi? Thanks for posting this up!!

Exactly what @calZ said...please see #12 in the Classified Rules: P.S. Nice wheels! GLWS

Thanks for that! I used a Cal-Style gasket from VR on my windshield years ago, and have been happy with it -- fits pretty well, not overly-difficult to install, and no leaks. At the time, Vintage Rubber was the only vendor I could find with trimless Cal-Style gaskets in stock. It'd be nice if there were other vendors out there to choose from.

@Miles, thx -- was not aware that there was another vendor (besides Vintage Rubber) that produces the windshield and hatch glass gaskets without the metal trim groove. (Vintage Rubber calls this style seal "Cal Style".) I will have to look into that other vendor...any info that you can recall would be appreciated. @fusion, glad you were able to get it in finally. I'll probably be replacing my hatch glass seal sometime in the near future; so I'll keep your experience and Miles' recommendations in mind! 👍

FYI -- @Trentomobol hasn't been on the site since 2017. You could try sending him a PM, as they typically will be forwarded to their personal email (if it hasn't changed). Cool bit of Z car history there...anything you'd like to share about your Dad's business history would be welcome here!! Thanks for posting, and welcome to HBZ!

If you haven't already tried this, it might be worth disconnecting (unbolting) the tie rod ends from the steering knuckles to help isolate the issue. If it persists, then you can assume the issue is in the rack and/or steering column. If not, it's somewhere in the suspension. Just throwing out ideas here....

Ditto that -- had the same experience destroying two drill bits when drilling out my original steering knuckles. Became a moot point when I switched to quick-steering knuckles from Apex. The car's looking GREAT; good luck with the latest issue!

Lookin good, @A to Z! But I think you may have gotten your text and photos mixed up. I like that you installed the headlight covers without the rubber trim strip....I do mine the same way. To me, it's a much cleaner look; as long as one takes the time and effort to install the covers with a good fit, as they often need some trimming, "massaging", etc to achieve a nice tight fit on the headlight bucket. One small suggestion for your consideration: if you used the supplied phillips head screws to secure the covers to the mounting clips, consider replacing them with allen head screws. I know it's a tiny detail, but IMHO the allen head hardware looks more "mechanical" whereas phillips head looks more "household". Again, a tiny, tiny detail...and probably just a personal preference of mine. The car's looking great!! Always enjoy seeing photos of it. 👍👍

I'm running the -1437s, as well; and am not aware of anything better in the same price range. I'm sure you're familiar with the high-end stuff, like KW, MCS and Intrax -- nice hardware, but orders of magnitude more expensive. ☹️ Would be interested in what you learn, and eventually decide; if you wouldn't mind posting your results here as a follow-up. (If you don't mind my asking...what sway bar(s) are you running, with those spring rates? Tires? Thx.)

Welcome...glad you're able to join us! I'm sure you'll have a lot of interest from Members here; and you may want to consider advertising on ClassicZCars.com as well. Lots of highly experienced restoration enthusiasts frequent that site as well. https://www.classiczcars.com/

For starters, if you haven't already seen this FAQ thread, it may be of interest to you: https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/49194-differential-cv-lsd-hp-torque-r160-r180-r200-r230-diff-mount/#comments As madkaw pointed out, the casings are the same; but IIRC, the rear covers are different. The Subaru unit has an electrical plug/temp sensor on the differential cover where the Datsun fill plug is. Your pictures didn't display the rear cover, so check that first. Also, need to clarify what stub axles you have as madkaw explained, especially if you're wanting to convert from the stock half-shafts to aftermarket CV units. Did a quick Google search on your casing number, but the results didn't really indicate anything definitive. It is similar, but not an exact match, to a Nissan part number: https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-housing-final~38311-e4600.html If the diff is a Subaru unit, this is a super useful thread: https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2597453 From your second and third photos, it *appears* that you have a 3.36 CLSD diff. The car looks like it's built with some nice pieces, so good luck with it and have fun!

@Bakerz22, FYI -- the organic search tool on HybridZ kind of sucks. People usually have better luck using a Google search...just be sure to include "site:HybridZ.org" in your Google search string. (It usually works fine if you even just include the term "HybridZ" in your search string.) Glad you found what you needed! P.S. IMHO, I'd think 16x7 wheels would not require rolling the fenders....assuming they are zero offset, and you are not using any spacers/wheel adapters/etc. Choice of tire will be just as important to ensure no rubbing.

@Kennysgreen280zt, I think you're referring to this thread? It seems to have gotten buried over time; and perhaps we need to make it a Sticky or move it to the "FAQs" sub-forum. Cary, Dan...thoughts? @tube80z, @SuperDan

Cool stuff, Clark! I wonder how long it will be before people start asking if you'll produce more to sell! 😜

@Ryan C, is this what you're looking for? https://zcardepot.com/collections/weatherstripping/products/door-belt-moulding-rubber-wipe-repair-kit-240z-260z-280z?_pos=1&_sid=f86e5d6c0&_ss=r&variant=32203030167665