jhm

Ditto for me. I guess I haven’t been paying close attention to all the clues for spammers and bots, but I do try to report the obvious spammers & phishers when I see them. Happy to act in some limited “Admin” capacity if it helps lighten the load on our Moderators.

What car/year/model/version???

@grretc may be able to help, if he’s still active here. IIRC, he sells new and reconditioned dashes and consoles.

Sorry, can't help you with your immediate question....but is the clearance so tight that you can't jam anything (e.g. high-density padding) between the bar and the roof?

If you’re planning to do some auto-x and track days, a square setup will be more economical in the long run...allowing maximum ability to rotate tires front-rear-left-right. This is particularly important if you choose a softer compound tire. Wheel spacers and spacer-adapters can give you flexibility to adjust track width, as necessary. The other option that many folks use is one set of wheels for street use and one, or more, set(s) for track use. (My wife tells me that I’m limited to no more than four sets of wheels & tires.)

That’s unfortunate. Sorry you’re having such a problem with them; but your update is much appreciated. Several good vendors have run into business difficulties (for a multitude of reasons), and many of them just never recover. Thx for keeping the community updated, and good luck whichever way it turns out for you.

While this has turned into an interesting discussion (largely focused on race-tire/wheel options), I’m thinking it has probably strayed from the OP’s intent. @Wheeliegeezer, have you considered trying a wheel mock-up tool to determine your optimum diameter/width/offset?

@inis, unless you’re planning on making this a build thread, you want want to post your question(s) in the Nissan L6 sub-forum. Might get more responses and find more topic-specific info related to you specific issue. Just a suggestion...your call.

Such a bummer to see all your hard work going up in smoke (literally) — but a big Kudos to you for deciding to rebuild. Best of luck with it. 👍👍

Welcome to HybridZ! What are your plans for the car? TONS of great info here....start with the FAQs, if you haven't already done so. Good luck with the build!

See Post #10 in the attached thread from ClassicZCars: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/45461-parts-for-oem-np-valve-and-brake-indicator-switch-unit/?_fromLogin=1

Can't tell from your second post if it's fully sorted; but it's not at all unusual for the split washer to dig into the metal on the steering wheel hub. Don't overtighten it -- follow the recommended torque spec. Do you have sufficient thread engagement on the nut? If not, consider swapping the thick split washer for a thinner style lock washer...that should easily add at least a couple threads' worth of additional engagement. Alignment: if you're not happy with the centering of the steering wheel, you don't necessarily need a full front-end alignment. Just decide which direction you want to adjust the wheel to, and adjust the tie rod ends in equal amounts on both sides until you're happy with the steering wheel centering (it will only take a very small adjustment of the tie rod ends....recommend starting with a quarter turn each). Hope this helps.

Should be a pretty easy problem to solve. As you said, check all the linkages; and be sure to check the pedal mounting pivot point (in the footwell)....there’s a spring there also, which might be affecting the pedal action.

Good advice from @AydinZ71. I would add one additional thing to consider....if your primary concern is during stop & go traffic, consider popping the hood release and letting the hood ride open a couple inches while relying on the safety catch. (This assumes that you have a properly-functioning hood safety catch.). Used to do this all the time when I had to drive in a heavily-congested area. It allows a lot of underhood heat to escape, and doesn’t have the high pressure buildup at windshield base as there is at speed.

If you haven't already done so, I would post your Want Ad on the S30 pages on FB....the one that comes to mind most immediately is "Swapped S30 Owners Group".

@grretc may be familiar with these.....I’m sure he’ll chime in if so.

If you’ve already decided to swap in cv axles; DriveShaftShop makes a very stout pair for less than the Z Car Garage units. Both are way overkill for your intended setup IMHO. Also, neither of these address the stock stub axle; which is what your original post seemed to focus on. Good luck with it.

You seem to have a pretty good grasp of the issues and most available options; and yes, the outer stub axles are "generally" the weakest link in the system. However, there are a couple other considerations which will factor in to your overall result: which transmission you end up with; which tire/wheel setup you end up with, and driving usage. 1) Auto trans are generally kinder to the drivetrain. 2) Big, sticky tires are generally less kind to the drivetrain. 3) Heavier cars are generally less kind to the drivetrain. 4) A smoother/gentler driving style is ALWAYS more kind to the drivetrain. (By far, the biggest factor within your control.) The stock half-shafts are surprisingly stout, when maintained in good working order. Mine have lasted several years of hard autocross and track use with 275-width R-compound tires (I've broken the R180; but no problems with the half-shafts, side axles or stub axles) . If yours are working now, I would suggest continue using them until they fail. By then, you'll have a better idea on your objective setup and goals for the car. Making big changes to the rear end now is really just a lot of time and expense for something that you may never actually need. FYI -- if you decide you really need CV axles, keep in mind that many (most?) of those solutions limit your rear sway bar options.

FYI -- you're posting a question about a 1953 Chevy truck in a Datsun Z-car forum. You may want to repost your question in a forum for vintage Chevy trucks, and you probably want to include more info in your post (e.g. what motor was in the truck previously; what bolt pattern does the 4-speed tranny have, which "350" engine you plan to install, etc). Regardless....if the 350 is a traditional SBC motor; and if the bolt patterns on old trans and the new engine match, you should be able to physically mate the two units together. If the engine is anything other than an SBC, you'll want to do some more research after arming yourself with more detailed information about the planned engine swap. Best of luck with your project -- it sounds like a good one.