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Hey @fusion, sorry for the late reply; but no, did not use any kind of sealant.

Good call, Aydin...strengthening the end link attachment points. Also, with your adjustable LCAs, keep in mind that whenever you lengthen them (for increased track width, additional negative camber, etc), you are also reducing the effective spring rate of the suspension...both the coil over springs and the sway bar springing. Changing one element of the system can affect so many other components. Can’t wait to see your car up and running!

Another way to incorporate adjustability into the system is via the end link mounting brackets (that are bolted to the LCAs). You can fabricate brackets with multiple holes, to allow for multiple mounting points for the end links. Or you can make a bracket with a single mounting point that is “off-center” (I.e. slightly inboard or outboard of the carriage bolt used to mount the bracket on the LCA) — for adjustability, flip the mounting bracket 180 degrees to position the end link mounting holes to the “more inboard” or “more outboard” position for stiffer or softer effective sway bar springing. Hope I’ve explained that in an understandable fashion. The more options you have for adjustability and fine-tuning will be especially helpful when you’re at the track, with limited time and facilities. I’ve looked at the cockpit-adjustable and blade-style sway bar systems with envy, but have yet to engineer a sufficiently durable and cost-effective solution. One of the many items on an infinitely-long “to do” list. 😆

Not my car; don't know anything about it...but seems like it could be a great start for anyone wanting a project 240. https://www.facebook.com/commerce/listing/467641471636318/?media_id=1&ref=share_attachment

Seems like FB has become the de facto biggest digital marketplace. There's a "Swapped S30 Owners' Group" page that would likely give your car the visibility that you're looking for: https://www.facebook.com/groups/v8zcars/?multi_permalinks=2059432294232504&notif_id=1644429827873795&notif_t=group_highlights&ref=notif

I belong to several Subaru forums, and have bookmarked several good discussions on the topic over the years. Here's a couple for anyone wanting to salvage an LSD diff: https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2597453 https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1969700 http://legacycentral.org/library/literature/differential.htm#Which Subarus do I look at to find an LSD Last time I checked, John Williams was offering the best price on adapter side axles, if retaining the stock half-shafts. Futofab also offers them, but the sources are drying up. Sadly, Fritz is no longer producing the integrated CV axles that @Derek and @AydinZ71 refer to (DatsunRestoMods)....I'm guessing he didn't sell enough to make it worthwhile. (Just recently saw that T3 is marketing CV axles that appear very similar to the DatsunRestoMod units: https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/260z/long-nose-r180r200-cv-axles-240260280z) FWIW, I've been running a 3.54 Torsen with John W's adapter side axles in my last two cars for several years issue-free. Modest power with decent torque numbers and very sticky rubber in a variety of road course and auto-x applications. Hope this info helps for anyone considering the swap.

I installed a new windshield two winters ago using the Vintage Rubber "Cal Style" gasket. Maybe I got lucky; but had no problems during the install and no leaks since. Used the common "rope" technique to install -- me on the inside of the car and a friend applying gentle pressure to the glass on the outside of the car. Warmed the gasket up in hot water before installing it to soften up the rubber. I will definitely use Vintage Rubber again in the future whenever I get around to replacing the gasket in the rear hatch glass. Hope this helps.

Wow, looks like they did a nice job, Aydin! Have to admit; I was a bit leery on whether you were going to be able to bend those stout pieces, but it's always nice to find that one shop that has the ability (and willingness) to perform that specialized work for you. Well done.

You mean like these? https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Yokohama&tireModel=ADVAN+A052

Yes, it would be useful to know what differential you had that failed. Would also be useful to know what your budget is for the upgrade. What's the rest of your setup (e.g. transmission, wheel/tire combo, etc)? And would also be useful to know what's the application going to be (i.e. intended usage)? You will also find that the outer stub axles are prone to breakage under continued hard use (oftentimes even before the differential itself fails), so include that consideration in your upgrade planning as well.

Howdy Adam, and welcome to HBZ! Nice find there....good luck with your planned projects for it. ClassicZCar.com is another good resource, as suggested by @Mayolives. Also some good reading and tech tips here: https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/ If you don't have a Factory Service Manual yet, you can download for free at: http://www.xenonzcar.com/s30/fsm.html WRT the driver's door....I would first try removing the small finishing piece on the interior handle (should be a a pop-off/on plastic piece, followed by a metal trim piece held in place by a single phillips-head screw.) Once removed, you should be able to manipulate the long arm attached to the door latch and get the door open. If that doesn't work, you should probably remove the entire interior door card, which will give you complete access to all the inner mechanisms for the window and door latch/lock. There's not as many vendors left that provide OEM-style parts as there used to be, but still a few good ones left. Check out these places for those hard-to-find piece-parts. MSA, "http://www.zcarparts.com/". Z Car Source, https://zcarsource.com/ Z Car Depot, https://zcardepot.com/

Nice work, Aydin...impressive as always. This is one of the reasons that I’ve shied away from composite body panels.

I bought a 32' coil of cunifer brake line and ended up with a BUNCH left over. 25' should be more than enough for you. Ditto for the fuel line. Have been using cunifer tubing for several years now and have nothing but good things to say about it -- I think you'll like working with it. Good luck!

SOLD

I often weld my rivnuts, as well. For this reason, I am usually using zinc-plated steel nuts. It only takes a small tack or two to firmly secure the rivnut in place. (For the rear flares, the tack weld is on the outside surface.). The current set of flare rivnuts have been in place for four years without any signs of loosening or corrosion. Hope this helps.

Just an FYI, depending on how big a patch panel you intend to use...the early year doors have the hole for the door lock knob in a different location than the later year cars. Not a big deal; nothing that can’t be worked around. Just wanted to let you know so you aren’t surprised.

As an FYI...if you don’t get the info you need here; you might try posting your question on ClassicZcar.com. As a community, they are very much into original-type restorations. Good luck with it — I applaud your commitment to originality!

Sorry to hear that this nagging issue hasn't come to resolution for you. It sounds like you have isolated it to the differential, and have tried everything I would suggest to fix the issue. Maybe the additional sound deadening in the hatch will help. Just curious....have you driven in other S30s for comparison sake? I don't know if you're new to these cars or not; but nothing is quiet about them. Most of my Zs have sounded like they're falling apart and dropping pieces all over the road. You can't compare them in any way shape or form to a modern civilized-riding automobile. I know that doesn't make the driving experience any less irritating for you; but at least you might be able to decide that your current diff is functioning "normally", FWIW.

Hey all, I've got a pair of the rotor spacers you need when doing the Toyota caliper upgrade to the front brakes. These are from Silvermine Motors; and have never been run on -- only installed once for mock-up purposes only. These are the spacers for "280Z hubs" (which also includes most 260Zs); the 240Z hubs were different thickness and therefore require different thickness spacers for the caliper swap. Please ensure which front hubs you have before purchasing! Full description can be found at: https://www.silverminemotors.com/datsun/datsun-280z/brake-kit-individual-parts/spacer. You would pay $80 plus $10 shipping for these new; you can buy mine for $50 shipped anywhere in the U.S. Thanks for looking!!

If you’re intent on switching to CVs, that’s a pretty nice price for a bolt-in solution. They look an awful lot like the units that Fritz McKellar used to produce at Datsun Restomods; but sadly has discontinued his production line. I had always planned to buy a set from him when my half-shafts decided to crap out on me...but I’m still waiting for that day, even after multiple years of hard track use. Before purchasing, I would check with ZCarDepot to enquire if they have a recommended HP/torque limit on these axles, to ensure suitability with your setup and intended usage.

I agree with @rturbo 930.....if you plan to upgrade the front brakes, I'd go with something other than the Toyota calipers. Those things weigh a ton and it's all unsprung weight. There are numerous options/kits out there that incorporate aluminum calipers and vented rotors. Also, if you ARE upgrading the front brakes, why would you want to keep solid front rotors? Those are actually the biggest achilles heel of the OEM system, as they are prone to overheating when subjected to sustained, intensive use. Since you've already swapped the rears for discs, I'm assuming that you've also gone with a bigger MC? If not, that should be on your near-term list. I know your question is focused on brakes and suspension, but have you upgraded your seats? That alone can make a huge difference in driving pleasure and comfort. Lots of good choices from Recaro, Sparco, etc....and there's a couple good threads here on seat swaps. Your combo sounds super nice -- I hope you're enjoying it!!

Hey Aydin, I'd be interested to see your airbox if you don't mind posting some pics at your next update. Tried downloading the movie clip you included, but my laptop didn't like it (possibly because it's an ancient POS, and I'm too cheap to buy a new one.) You might be able to use V-band clamps on the header if you stagger them on the two pipes (i.e. one slightly fore or aft of the other)? Just a thought for your consideration.

Good tips from @NewZed on the rear brakes. Most of the OTS drum brake shoes from parts stores are so-so at best. Fortunately, Porterfield produces a nice shoe that fits our rear drum brakes....you can check them out here: https://www.porterfield-brakes.com/Products/?YearSelected=1972&ModelSelected=240Z&MakeSelected=NISSAN&selectManufacturer=Porterfield Brakes

When you say "very firm peddle"....I'm wondering if you are getting power assist from the brake booster. Why do you say the "booster seems good" -- have you actually tested it, or had someone else test it? It's not uncommon for the check valve to either be installed backwards or to malfunction. Either condition will result in little/no assist from the booster, so I'd start by checking that first. Also, as @NewZed suggested...harder compound pads won't function properly until they get some heat into them. It is for this exact reason that I will often run organic, or softer, compound pads in my street cars. (And vendors like Carbotech and Porterfield both make a wide range of excellent brake pad options for the S30.)

I would check with Jamie at River City Speed....he works on everything, from mild to wild. He's currently building a turbo LS, tube chassis S30 for his own personal use. He has done work for many members here, including some of our SysAdmins. https://www.facebook.com/Rivercityspeed