-
Posts
1346 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
19
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Everything posted by jhm
-
Are we in a similar situation here as last year? My web browser has been telling me that the site's certificate has expired. Do we need some more donations to cover whatever expenses are necessary? Is anyone else having this "Unsecure Connection" warning message, or am I the only one? Dan, Cary, Jon...anyone? @SuperDan, @tube80z, @JMortensen
-
Adjustable Camber/Castor without cutting! S30
jhm replied to Ont240's topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
@Ont240, look at these pictures of the GC coilover kits...note that the mounting hardware is pictured in these photos. https://groundcontrolstore.com/collections/s30/products/1970-1978-datsun-240-260-280-z-complete-coilover-kit-with-no-cut-camber-plates -
Adjustable Camber/Castor without cutting! S30
jhm replied to Ont240's topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
I’ve used the biscuit-style camber plates by DP Racing and the bolt-in plates by Ground Control. Have nothing but good comments on both; and both companies offer excellent customer service/support. The DP plates offer the added benefit of allowing a slight increase in caster when used in the front. -
Yet another Rear control arm design
jhm replied to tholt's topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
How much are you looking to shorten the control arms by, Jon? Even though flipping your existing camber plates didn't yield enough camber change, would switching to a different camber plate (and/or camber plate mounting inside the strut tower) be an option? That might be cheaper/easier than redesigning the control arms? Looking at your pictures from Nov 8, 2012...it doesn't appear that reverting back to OEM LCAs is a reasonable option, is it? As another option for consideration, what about altering the inner mounting points for the LCA? (i.e. relocating them further inboard?) -
Nice! Thanks for sharing, and welcome to the Forum! Hope you find any/all info you might be seeking; and please don't hesitate to share your knowledge and lessons-learned, as well. What spring rates are you currently running? You'll find that some folks prefer stiffer coil springs and lighter sway bars, and others vice versa. Additionally, a lot of S30 drivers prefer a smaller rear bar (or even no rear bar at all) for better power-down behavior during corner exit.....don't know how that translates to an S130, but maybe something to consider if you plan to do a lot of auto-x. Cheers!
-
Updated My Website - Plenty of Easy Upgrades and Tips & Tricks
jhm replied to Acemon's topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Wow...looks great! I always enjoy reading other folks’ build descriptions and lessons-learned along the way. Thx for sharing!! -
Yes, many thanks to those that have joined and continued this discussion. @Ben280, as you probably figured out...my original intent for that early post was mostly to get the discussion going and illustrate how much useful data can be gathered with simple inexpensive hand tools. Thanks very much for continuing the thread and bringing more sophisticated computerized tools into the discussion. Very interested to hear your thoughts on iphone vs Android organic capabilities. As someone who was dragged into the smartphone world kicking and screaming, I personally am very ignorant on the inherent pros/cons of the current fleet of modern smartphones. I 100% agree with you that the organic location-finding capabilities of many (most?) cell phones is lacking; but that can be overcome by pairing a precision GPSR with your smartphone...true? I've been using a Dual precision receiver for the last couple years with my iPhone, and have found my lap and sector times to be quite accurate (comparing the results in phone app vs light-beam timers). FWIW, Track Addict Pro and Harry's Lap Timer have been working well for me personally....but there's a BUNCH of apps out there to choose from. Fully realize that I need to bite the bullet and buy some more sophisticated data logging equipment; so I appreciate your thoughts on which systems you've had good success with. Thanks! @clarkspeed, many thanks for helping guide this talk. I'd like to chat with you regarding that DL1 unit for sale. Will PM you separately.
-
Probably a long shot, but I’m looking for a left (driver side) S30 headlight bucket (aka “sugar scoop”). Only need the left side, but willing to buy the pair if you don’t want to sell a single bucket. I prefer metal, but will consider FG if the price is right. Thank you. r/JHM UPDATE: Found what I needed. Ad can be deleted. Thanks to all that replied.
-
I’ve been using an Eastwood circular saw for 4 years now. Works great on straight cuts, but not so much on complex curves. Makes less mess and generates less heat than a cutting wheel. All of my cutting has been 3/16” or thinner; but I’ve seen people using it on much thicker stuff. Like many vendors, Eastwood offers a nice discount coupon if you sign up for their email list. https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-mini-metal-saw.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjw1bqZBhDXARIsANTjCPKME5E2ef-O0n5ybLzZk-V9M7iizRAlqnRQRLecq_L4pqfL4htpwSUaAhJ9EALw_wcB&wcid=18406149356&wickedid=&wickedsource=google&wv=4
-
Hey Amar, thx for the heads-up. We’ve seen similar scams and phishing here, too (unfortunately). Try to report them to the Admins when you see them. Cheers, buddy!
-
Which LSD is it? STi diffs came with a couple different kinds. And just FYI...it’s completely normal for them to have a fair amount of play, even when “new’ish”. I’ve had that same setup for several years with my nicely built SBC (mine’s a helical center section.)
-
@AydinZ71, et al....I just checked and it appears the listing is still active. I'll copy/paste the ad info below, in case others are having difficulty viewing the ad. (One may have to belong to the FB page "Datsuns for sale!" in order to view the ad.) No argument at all with all the comments about usefulness of social media for tech info sharing. I'm still convinced that FB is only useful for sharing funny dog videos. HBZ and ClassicZCars are really the only online tech boards I regularly rely on. ---------------------------------------------------------- Seller: Eli Keep-barnes FB page: "Datsuns for sale!" 1971 Nissan 240z $5,500 Listed 15 weeks ago in Copperas Cove, TX About This Vehicle Driven 12,000 miles Automatic transmission Exterior color: Black Seller's Description 1971 Datsun 240z · Coupe · Driven miles unknown Selling my 1971 240z wide body started a project but decided to go a different route. It’s a roller does not run completely stripped on the inside but still has a bunch of parts, engine, transmission, radiator, complete G-nose front end, spoiler, dash, if your interested DM me PRICE IS FIRM NO TRADES See less Copperas Cove, TX Location is approximate
-
Saw this on FB marketplace and had to share....looks like a heckuva' deal from the pictures provided. The purchase price isn't much more than the cost of a g-nose kit alone. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1091472531719529/?ref=browse_tab&referral_code=marketplace_top_picks&referral_story_type=top_picks
-
Agree that it's not an ideal solution; and yes, definitely use grade 8 or better hardware. You can also choose your mounting bolts to ensure maximum length of the unthreaded shank, which will minimize the length of the threaded portion....just make sure you carefully measure the total length of the spacer + caliper mounting tab. And ensure that the hole in your spacer closely matches the OD of your bolt's unthreaded shank. This should give you overall strongest mounting solution. Other vendors offer big brake mounting brackets which have been machined in two planes to overcome the offset issue you're dealing with. Attached photo from T3 is an example of what I'm talking about. Silvermine Motors used to offer individual big brake kit components for sale....if they're still producing those brackets, that's another option you could consider if your current solution doesn't work out. The owner, Edan, is pretty responsive to technical questions IME. https://www.silverminemotors.com/datsun/datsun-240z/brake-kit-individual-parts Don't give up...this kit can definitely be made to operate correctly and safely!
-
Hey all, This question is mainly directed at the Site Admins, but open to anyone that may be able to help. Seems like there's a preset daily limit on the number of "Reactions" that a user can apply to other users' posts -- and that limit seems to be one (1) per day. I'm referring to the small heart-shaped icon in the lower right of a post, which allows other users to click a "Reaction", such as "Like", "Thanks", "Confused", etc, etc. Am I the only one that's experiencing this daily limitation on Reactions? Has anyone else noticed this? I can't understand why there would be such any limit at all, much less such a constraining limit as once/day. If this is something easily fixable, maybe one of our Admins (or Moderators, if they have that capability) could look into changing it in the internal workings of the website structure? Thanks in advance. Vr
-
@Ironhead, I’m glad you chimed in, because I did a similar thing with my bar. Mine’s bolted in, and I wanted to retain the ability to remove it when necessary. I fabricated some bolt-in brackets which utilized those mounting points on the roof support and two beefy 1.75” tube clamps. Provides two additional mounting points for the bar and the extra chassis stiffening Jon and Clark recommended. BTW, love your car...beautiful build!
-
Thx for taking the time to continue this important discussion, Clark! At the risk of publicly making a fool of myself, I'll go first. I was thinking that it would be useful to talk about how much great data can be collected & recorded with just simple hand tools, vs sophisticated data loggers, video devices and smart phone apps. Attached is photo of roughly $60 worth of simple tools readily available from multiple vendors (including your local hardware store). As @clarkspeed mentioned in a previous thread, there’s no limit to amount of data one can easily collect & record at each and every track session to help improve your driving performance (e.g. lap times, driving smoothness, capability of the car, etc). Here are just a few of the data parameters that I have found useful, FWIW: Suspension setup. This is a BIG system, with LOTS of variable parameters that can be measured and tuned to achieve your best performance. This can also vary widely – no single setup will rarely work optimally at every type of event (auto-x vs road course vs straight-line vs oval track, rough surface vs smooth surface, variable weather conditions, etc, etc). Camber (front and rear, left and right), caster, front-end toe, ride height (front and rear, left and right) can all be measured with simple tape measure and angle finder. A cheap, accurate digital angle finder is $20. A tape measure and some ordinary string can be used to accurately measure your front-end toe; and after doing it a couple times, it becomes second nature to quickly and accurately measure and adjust your toe settings. Tire pressures and temps. ALWAYS measure tire pressures, hot and cold; to determine what pressures work best for any given surface and suspension setup. Equal pressures on all four tires is not necessarily the best solution….you can vary front vs rear pressures and right vs left pressures to achieve different handling characteristics. When measuring tire temps, use a probe-style pyrometer vs surface temp IR gun. The IR gun can only measure surface temps on a tire, which doesn’t give an accurate indication of a tire’s internal temperature, which is what’s really important. Additionally, the tire’s surface temperature can change significantly from the time you exit the track to when you actually take the measurement, vs the internal temp remains quite consistent for some time after exiting the track. A cheap, accurate pyrometer and tire probe costs $20 and a good tire pressure gauge is $10-$20. An IR gun DOES have many uses, and can be had for $20. It can measure track surface temperature, which has a huge effect on tire performance (especially short-duration events, like dragracing, top-speed comps, auto-x or time trials). IR guns can also be used to measure brake temps, differential temperatures, header temps (including individual header tubes) and many other useful mechanical parameters on your car. It can verify that your coolant temp and oil temp gauges are operating correctly and accurately. Ambient weather condition will also have an effect on the car’s performance; so be sure to record those, as well. Ambient temperature, sunny vs cloudy, altitude density and precipitation are just a few of the many weather parameters that can factor in to affect your car’s performance, and these parameters are all readily available with just about any good weather app or website. Sorry for the long-winded, and rambling, response. These are just a few examples of the data that can be easily and cheaply measured & recorded; and I’m sure that my feeble-minded reply is missing a whole bunch of stuff….others will chime in, I’m sure. This is more just to get the discussion going. I look forward to the ensuing discussion and sharing of information!!
-
Ditto for me. I guess I haven’t been paying close attention to all the clues for spammers and bots, but I do try to report the obvious spammers & phishers when I see them. Happy to act in some limited “Admin” capacity if it helps lighten the load on our Moderators.
-
What car/year/model/version???
-
@grretc may be able to help, if he’s still active here. IIRC, he sells new and reconditioned dashes and consoles.