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You might have more success if you post this in the "Parts Wanted" section: https://forums.hybridz.org/forum/73-parts-wanted/ If no one here has any available, they are available all over FB Marketplace and eBay. You can also purchase them new/refurbed from several vendors (ZCarDepot, etc). T3 even offers some slick bolt-in CV axles that are remove and replace for the original half-shafts: https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/260z/long-nose-r180r200-cv-axles-240260280z

Cary/Randall- I think that was likely my fault. My apologies; but many thanks for fixing it. Cheers, John

Oh man….that’s a huge bummer, Ben. Glad you’re ok, and the underlying structure’s ok — but it’s still a bummer to see. How long are you expecting repairs to take? Curious what kind of dyno was used? Glad to hear you’re happy with the new motor. Don’t hesitate to ask if you’re needing bits & pieces for the rework.

Got it. Something for your consideration…IMO, that style thick-spoke wheel often “appears” to have less offset (ie, shallower dish) than many other wheels designs of the same offset. Unless you’re set on keeping those Rotas, you could consider a different wheel of zero offset and achieve that look you’re striving for. Food for thought… Another option to help with the fender clearance issue — more negative camber on all four corners.

Sorry, I may be misunderstanding what you’re trying to achieve. Do you want a look that has a deeper dish or a shallower dish? Positive offset gives you a shallower dish, which is what I thought you were hoping to achieve. My bad if I misunderstood. Sounds like you don’t want to go the route of fender flares, since you’re talking about rolling the fenders even more? Regarding handling…offset (by itself) doesn’t really factor, unless it makes a difference in vehicle track width. A wider track will generally improve a car’s stability and overall handling (assuming all other factors equal). Negative offset can give you more room on the inside for bigger brakes. Many of the OTS big brake kits on the market today advertise possible interference with 15” wheels and smaller. Hope this helps.

If your 15x8, et0 wheels are almost rubbing on the outer fender sheet metal, then 15x9, -13 will definitely have major interference issues….negative offset will create a deeper “dish”. Sounds like you may want to look at wheels with some positive offset, but be careful that they don’t have interference with the strut tubes on the inside (assuming that you’re running stock-diameter strut springs). There are dozens of threads here on this exact topic; have you already reviewed them and not found a suitable solution?

Are you looking for something like this? https://www.silverminemotors.com/products/wilwood-120-12069-wilwood-120-12070-caliper-cable-emergency-brake If you prefer to piece together your own system, several vendors offer separate hardware components (e.g. cables, brackets, etc) and the owner (i.e. you) has to source calipers separately. Finally, one of the members here is selling these: Hope this helps.

Good to see you’re still going strong! Enjoyed seeing you run on “Street Outlaws”…I think it was a couple years ago?

That’s kind of an open-ended question. If you’re just looking for 15x8 wheels with 4x114 lug pattern, they’re readily available from dozens of vendors. You’ll need to know what offset you want. And do you have a specific budget? New wheels can range in price from $100 to thousands of dollars per wheel. You’ll need to be more specific in your post if you’re looking for a specific wheel brand, wheel style, wheel material, etc, etc. Are you only interested in Mini Lites??

Kind of hard to understand the situation without the actual wiring diagram you’re using…but I’ll give it a shot. Is your “constsntly live wire” supposed to be connected to unswitched 12V? If so, your windshield wiper washer motor is not a good source— that’s a switched circuit, as Bradman pointed out. (However, it should still be providing 12V to the relay once the car is running, so I don’t know if that’s really the root of your problem.). I suspect your problem may be the relay. How many pins does it have, and was it provided as part of the fan kit? Finally, have you tested the fan by connecting directly to 12V just to ensure that it’s operating properly?

There are actually quite a few threads threads here on this exact topic; this is just one example, but a quick search will yield several results. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/67531-ac-delcogm-alternator-swap-part-2-cs144-installation/ There are also several discussions, same topic, on ClassicZCars.com if you're unable to find a solution that you like here.

And to tag on to what @AydinZ71 said...you really don't need to replicate the exact shape of the original sheetmetal for that area. Any repair that enables you to maintain the original mounting point for the seat belt assembly will be fine. However, please pay particular attention to that mounting point! Ensure that its strength and integrity has not been compromised by the rust, or by whatever repairs you implement.

That's the "pocket" for the floor mounting of the seat belt system. I can't say that I've seen any suppliers for a replacement panel of that particular piece. You may want to search for owners parting out their car, and pay them to cut that piece out for you....very common practice. Or you could just fab your own replacement piece, as you mentioned. IIRC, it's a thicker gauge sheetmetal there than the surrounding areas. Good luck with it!

@73 datsun 1600, you might have more luck if you post your question in a forum that is oriented towards the Datsun Roadster (or any forum geared towards 4 banger Datsuns.) This is a Z car forum.

Following! Thx, Bart.

@Ben280, Pm’ed you. Thx.

Excellent…good luck with your resto!!

Will these work for you? https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978 Also, if you need the FSM....they can be downloaded free for all years at: http://www.xenonzcar.com/s30/fsm.html

Cool stuff! Thx for putting the effort in to produce these. Wouldn’t be surprised if vendors like MSA and ZCarDepot wanted to carry these as stock items. (And at the risk of stating the obvious, don’t forget to advertise them on the Datsun FB pages! 😜).

Yes. If you have the stock 240 strut isolators in the rear, you can swap them out for the taller 280-style rear isolators (which were approx 1-1.5” taller than the shorter 240-style rear isolators, IIRC). Looking at your pictures, I’m wondering if your exhaust can be tucked up higher yogi e you more ground clearance. What’s the ride height of your rocker sections?

So the air dam and splitter will have a shared/combined metal support framework, and that framework will tie into the stock bumper mounting points? Looks pretty solid, but the front crossmember can provide additional hard mounting points should you need it. Nice work!

Nice! What kind of mounting points/configuration/hardware do you plan to use? I have a similar concept in mind, but am not as far along as you are.

Yep, the slotted mags have been a very popular (and good-looking) choice on the Zs for a long time. As you mentioned, 13” and 14” were historically the most common, but 15” are certainly available. You will need to do some digging, and it may take some time to locate; as I honestly can’t recall seeing any new in a long time. Keep an eye on eBay, the Datsun forums (e.g. Ratsun.net), and all the Datsun pages on FB. Also…FYI, old Triumphs use the same 4x4.5” lug pattern as the Z uses. Good luck in your search!

I’m assuming that you’re aware of these as a 5-lug option. As I recall, T3 and Silvermine are two of the (few) vendors that produce these. https://www.silverminemotors.com/products/5-lug-conversion-front-hub-for-240z-260z-280z-cnc-aluminum

Yeah, I can see having two different lug patterns would be a real pain. There are a couple of easy swaps to convert the fronts to 5-lug…or just use some 4- to 5-lug adapter/spacers.