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Hey Dave- Been off the net a while, and just saw this thread. Bummer about the motor, but thx for sharing. I really enjoyed the video....brought back a lot of memories from when I was thrashing my 510 around Lime Rock 25 years ago. Amazingly, the track looks pretty much the same now as it did then! I remember when all the locals were threatening to shut the track down...looks like they haven't been successful yet (fortunately!!). It really is a nice little track in a beautiful area....it'd be a shame to lose it. Good luck with the fixes. r/John

This may help provide some of the info you're seeking. It's from one of the Drivetrain "FAQs".

Don't know if this will help....but when I bought my 260Z (w/ SBC), it was equipped with AC. High-mount alternator on driver side and high-mount AC compressor on passenger side. It actually all fit in pretty well, but I removed (and kept for possible later re-installation) everything to lighten it and open up the engine compartment. It was the right choice for me considering intended track use; but there are DEFINITELY times in the summer when I wouldn't mind a little cool air blowing!!! Seems to me that the biggest weak link for AC in S30s is the blower and cabin ventilation. That may not be true with an S130. Good luck with it and happy motoring. r/John

Interesting dilemma. I've always wondered if it was possible to mount the sway bars under the LCAs (i.e. run the end links down from the LCA, vs up). It looks possible, but I've never had the need to try it. It may only be possible on a car that's significantly lowered, due to LCA angle effects. Another solution might be the ST rear sway bar, where the chassis mounts are behind the differential. As long as it doesn't affect LCA strength, your notching solution may be the best approach. Have you tried playing with different end link bushings? They come in a large variety of thicknesses. If you use the thick ones below the sway bar, and a thin one above the sway bar, you might achieve a little more clearance from the LCA as well as avoid rubbing the CVs. I have a strong feeling that JohnC will speak up on this one!! Good luck with it!

Pretty nifty!! Always nice to find a pleasant little surprise like that (when you least expect it!). Thx for sharing.

Blew my diffy too! Good luck with the fix.

Good point from misterZ regarding headroom! I lost headroom on my install as well; but I've got a short torso so it did not negatively impact me. In fact, now that I sit a little taller in the seat, I have better visibility for curbs, cones, etc. And I can still comfortably fit in with a helmet on. Someone with a longer torso would definitely have headroom issues in my car.

Greg, et al- Finally got around to installing my late 1980's Prelude seats in my late '74 260Z (has the hump in trans tunnel for cat converter). I actually only installed the driver's seat....have not installed the passenger seat because I need that space for my race wheels! The install probably took a half day. I had to cut, bend, and basically destroy the stock Prelude sliders in order to make them mate with the stock Z sliders (via heavy gauge flat bar and angle iron). Also had to "massage" the trans tunnel hump slightly to get sufficient fore and aft slider movement. Very happy with the finished product. Although they're over 20 years old, the seat is extremely comfortable and supportive. You can see from the pictures that it has adjustable lumbar support, adjustable side bolster support, "fine" recline tuning, and a recline "Memory" function. These seats are also very light, and they look great. If you're using a 4- or 5-point harness, the shoulder straps thread easily through the headrest posts. Hope this info helps, and happy motoring to all! r/John

Are you getting 12V at the bulb socket? If not, either the hot lead is bad or the ground is bad (or both!) Easy enough to fix either. (IIRC, both sides use a common ground to the body in the vicinity of the rear panel. This is often the culprit.) Good luck with it.

Need the outer tie rod end (driver's side) for a late '74 260Z (i.e. the part shown in the link below). I believe that this part is the same for all years 70-78. S30 outer tie rod end "http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/SSSC01D/23-4411" Shipping would be to zip 23602. Thx for looking. r/John

If this is what you're talking about, they're part of your AC control system. Hope this helps. AC relays0001.pdf

Hey Mark- Nice lookin' header....stainless? Bet you're looking forward to getting that on the motor. Good luck getting it all back together, and please give me a shout if you need a second set of hands. r/John

Sorry...don't have an answer for you; but you may want to have the Admins move this to the "Engine Components/Exhaust" forum (or just re-post it there yourself). r/John

Pop your existing differential out and bring it with you...best way to compare what you've got against the new diffy. Like z2go said, most likely the pinion flange and half-shafts will need to be modified or replaced. See the attached pic on pinion flanges -- very likely that your car currently has the DAT-110 flange, and the differential you're considering has the DAT-110-2.0. It's an easy thing to swap flanges. This is a great stickie in the Drivetrain sub-forum: "http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/49194-differential-cv-lsd-hp-torque-r160-r180-r200-r230-diff-mount/". Good luck...hope you find what you need! r/John

If you decide to check out used slicks, I highly recommend this fellow: "http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=usdrrt&_sacat=0&_dmpt=Race_Car_Parts&_odkw=usdrrt+13&_osacat=0&_trksid=p3286.c0.m270.l1313". High marks for availability, prices, and quick shipping.

Pretty cool....looking forward to seeing your build. (I'm right down the road, so I'm actually looking forward to seeing it in person!) Good luck with it and be sure to post your progress. r/John

If the ammeter wire is smoking, you can start by disconnecting it immediately (if not sooner). You should be able to do this by unplugging the small plug (with the small-gauge wires) on the shunt (mounted on the passenger-side of your engine compartment. Yes, it will disable the ammeter, but it may prevent a fire in your dash while you're trouble-shooting the problem. You could have a short in the gauge itself. Consider replacing it with another ammeter, or swap it out for a voltmeter. Good luck.

The only difference between red and black that I'm aware of is that some manufacturers impregnate the black bushings with a graphite product as a lubricant. Also need to consider that not all end-link bushings are the same thickness. There's LOTS on info available on this topic in the "Brakes/Wheels/Suspension/Chassis" sub-forum.

Any of the polyurethane bushing kits should give you the result you're looking for.....you can buy the bushings individually or as complete kits. Check eBay, Prothane, Energy Suspension, etc to see what's available. Replacing your old rubber bushings with poly is a good cheap way to improve your car's handling. If you want to make it easy on yourself, look here: "http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/PSDC06A". Hope this helps.

Hey Greg- Am in the process of swapping out my mid-90's Prelude seats for late-80's Prelude seats....been wanting to do this for a while, and finally found a pair in great shape locally. Will post results soon (with pics, of course!) Happy motoring. r/John

Interesting....what diameter are they?

Nice looking wheels! I've always been a fan of that style. Be sure to post of pics once they're mounted...inquiring minds want to know!

Here's one for $50...even better!! "http://www.datsunclassifieds.com/showproduct.php/product/5920/title/datsun-70-78-240z280z-saddle-console-cover/cat/4" I can vouch from personal experience that Daniel (dhp) is a great guy to deal with. He'll treat you right.