LowCarbZ

I wear a pair of Irwin gloves. I always wore Mechanixwear gloves when I was working in Research and Development for a heavy equipment company building prototypes of large gravel pit machinery. I just found they tore apart way too fast and were almost too thin. (I realise they made them thin on purpose for feel but they didn't last.) I was later a motorcycle/snowmobile/atv mechanic and continued the trend. When you're working on stuff everyday and you rap the back of your hand off a heavy gauge steel machine when the wrench slips, you learn to appreciate just how much sting a good glove can prevent. I still get my hands dirty though, I can't stand trying to handle smaller bolts and nuts with gloves on. That's where those nitrile or latex gloves come into play. I guess ideally I should wear a pair of nitrile gloves inside the others just to keep some protection there. The amount of fluids and chemicals that are easily absorbed through the thin skin of the back of your hands is another reason to wear gloves. For the record, I only got any of the mechanixwear gloves as a gift and only bought the Irwin ones because we sell Irwin at my work. I'm not one to blow money on fancy gloves. Lol!

Soooooooo much "Right Click - Save As". Thanks!

^It's been my desktop in various forms SEVERAL times... The GT2/GT3...

TechArt Porsche GT2 (997). In white, the only thing i'd change is the wheels. I have always been fond of Porsches but this thing takes the cake. I can name 50 other cars i'd like but I always find myself coming back to this one... On our recent trip down to South Carolina I was driving on the interstate just south of Washington D.C. and a set of bright HID's were coming up extremely fast. I moved over from the left lane, cracked my window a bit and almost instantly a Silver GT2 went past in the fast lane right next to us. Easily in excess of 140-150mph. The turbulent air that the car left behind it created a wake powerful enough to shake our car and make the rear end lift a little bit. It was an amazing sound and the speed at which it came and left was blistering.

With all those drifting pictures i'm sure it's a little tweaked as well. And that's some serious drama at the end of the page there.

Sorry for bumping an old topic, didn't want to make a new one after searching. I ran into this problem tonight. I've pulled the struts, halfshafts, control arms etc. out of the rear end to replace all the bushings and u-joints. I'm also installing a pair of Koni Red 82R 1812's that my dad had in the garage since brand new that he never put in his Z in the 70's. Anyway, my driver's side halfshaft came right out without the c-clip on it. Anyone have any luck with a part number? What type of damage would occur from running the shaft in the diff without a new clip? I can't see where it would have any movement once everything's together. But of course there's a reason for it and i'd love to be corrected. Anybody?

I did a search but it's not exactly an easy topic title to accurately search. Some good stories on here for sure, if a Mod/Admin wants to merge the two threads or delete this one then by all means...

I can't say I like either one more than the other. But I can say both look great! With enough prep-work, patience and wet-sanding you can acheive great results like this. Nice work.

Oh man, those look great! Hmmmm............ Ahhhh I wish they weren't so steep. Come on Canadian Dollar, catch back up to that American Buck!

By all means but make sure you use the SEARCH function first because no one likes beatin' the same horse to death over and over again. Good luck.

Well here it is, time to confess. Post up any dumbass wrenching moments, slip ups, etc. you've had in the shop/driveway/roadside while working on your Datsun. We've all been there during our learning curve where you do something so stupid you question your own integrtiy, well here's your chance to get it off your chest and be the laughing stock of HBZ. My personal story? Back in the fall I had the Z on the 4-post lift in my shop. I changed the oil in the transmission and then proceeded to jack up the rear of the car with the center jack on the lift. Lifted it up just enough to get the tires off the ground so I could rotate my driveshaft and axleshafts to grease the joints. Well, I finished that up, moved onto something else and lowered the rack. Went to back the car out of the garage and it wouldn't move. A moment of "what the hell did I do to the transmission?" crossed my thoughts. The car won't go forward. It won't move in reverse. NOTHING. I rev it up a little bit and still doesn't move an inch. I feel it vibrating and think the worst. I was scratching my head as to what the hell I could've possibly done. I got out. No puddles under the car. Hmmmm... Got back in and tried again, maybe I didn't engage the shifter all the way in reverse. It was at that moment I looked down the back of the car while in reverse and see my driver's side wheel spinning gleefully at my side half an inch off the runway. I had lowered the whole rack with the car still jacked up on the lift slightly. So let's hear it HBZ. What's your least proud moment wrenching on the Z? What would make your old man smack you upside the head for being so slow?

I didn't know L-Series motors needed coolant to run? It's a pretty tough motor. And unless you notice temperatures creeping up or plan on driving in mid-july when it's sweltering hot out, I wouldn't worry too much about it. Put it this way. Would you drive the car locally for another couple thousand miles? If so, what makes you think it wouldn't make the trip? It's a bit of "traveler's paranoia". I had the same thoughts when we took my girlfriend's Olds Alero on our trip down to South Carolina and back. Put over 5000kms on the car in a week without a hiccup. Started the trip with over 212,000kms on the odometer. Good luck with your move.

I've circled anything you should check in red: In all seriousness though, below the battery tray, around the "frame" (for lack of a better word) rails, where the front sway bar mounts into the rails, typical floors/trunk. Check the inner fender sides under the hood and in the wheelwell. Sometimes they rust as the two skins of metal are close together below the strut mounting locations. The front strut rod support mounting locations as well. Other than that just the usual spots you'd look on any car. But be realistic, it's a 35 year old car. As with any old vehicle the potential for it needing metal work is high. And if he's not ok with you lifting carpets and taking things apart, find a different seller. It's your money, and cars are a shitty investment.

I like the red only without the stripes.

^ Good Idea, I think it'd be great if we all posted any thread links pertaining to this in the thread. And After I got looking at the picture I realised they're not intended to house a real projector, rather they're meant to spread the beam of an H4 bulb in a simulated "projector" manner.

^ Also, am I right to assume that those light housings are simply using a projector lens intended to have a regular H4 bulb installed?

I thought with all the recent chit chat on various threads about projector installs and the like we might as well have one thread rather than hi-jack others' threads. So I think it's good to try and keep most of the discussions in one place (and I get the impression almost everyone else feels the same way on Hybridz). *if there is already a thread for this I apologize, I did search. Anyway, post up some Q and A's in this thread for projectors/HID's. There seem to be a lot of very knowledgeable people here at HBZ. My Question: To the best of my knowledge the 7" Housings are the same for Z's as they are for Jeep CJ's/TJ's. I found this set on E-bay and i'm just curious if they'd work and maybe prevent the need to get generic housings and cut them up. They're pretty cheap too at $20 and the shipping isn't ridiculous. I know ideally you'd have to seperate them and paint the reflective surface. Thoughts? http://cgi.ebay.ca/7-HALO-PROJECTOR-HEADLIGHT-1997-98-99-01-JEEP-WRANGLER_W0QQitemZ170295732142QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item170295732142&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1215%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318

Bullet style mirrors and no paint = better aerodynamics/weight reduction?

This thread offends me. Although i'm not sure why yet. Maybe the guys at your gym were just stripper-grams but the order got messed up.

I liked it with the white paint and the black hood. But I have a huge hard-on for flat/satin black. Your car pulls it off great! Looking forward to a vid or soundclip too.

Can't wait to see these. Thanks for the update. Is that a Halo around the projector?

As far as greens go for me these are my picks: The Rescue green (on 2007 Jeep JK series) is one awesome colour to see in the sun in person. In pictures it looks earthy and brown, but up close it's outstanding: My Next pick would be this here and it was only offered on the 04 (maybe 05 as well) Jeep TJ. This is a picutre of our 2004 Rubicon, it's hard to tell but if you can find one in person (it's a pretty rare colour) it actually has a nice metallic in it. It's dirty, i'm sorry (it's rarely ever clean). Chrysler called it "Electric Lime Green Metallic" if i'm not mistaken, pretty straight-forward name: And i've raced Motocross for years and a colour of Green that's always caught my eye is Kawasaki's FLO Green (Circa Early 2000's/2001 for sure) it's a little richer and deeper toned than the traditional Kawi Green (which I find pale, chalky and bland personally) Flo=Flourescent: Dunno if my contributions help you any or complicate it more

Mine developped a slight shake due to a worn strut rod bushing. Just a thought in case it's been overlooked.

I just keep seeing flashbacks of Porsche's 70's abortion:

Well I just wanted to say thanks for the idea, as I was going to build a box to "fill" the spare tire well. But I may stray in a similar direction to what you've made. My main reason for doing this was to avoid having any visibile audio equipent through the hatch glass. (Didn't want anyone busting the glass to get at audio.) Please post some pictures of the riv-nut setup once you've figured out how it's all mounted. Excellent install.